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Old Jul 17, 2013, 01:17 AM
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Complete a Project in 2014 Build Off.

I find that I have too little time to do justice to Ken McDonough's BE2e, doing up the house, emigrating, family committments etc, so I've abandoned that project, and plan to build Vic Smeed's Pushy Cat for the build-off instead, which should be a much quicker build.

I already have a Belair semi kit which one of the girlfriends bought for me a few years ago. Having read, in another RC Groups thread about the problems of getting the model to fly r/c if built as per plan, I propose to reduce the wing incidence.

The Belair plan shows the balance point to be 6cms (2.3") in front to the trailing edge of the wing at the fuselage. The conventional wisdom seems to be to have it at the trailing edge.

Any help from those with greater aeronautical knowledge or experience of this model would be greatly appreciated.

I haven't made up my mind as to whether to power it with an electric motor or a Mills 75.

Wish me luck!
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Old Jul 17, 2013, 03:42 AM
I like real wooden aeroplanes!
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South-west France
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Probably a wise move David, I'll make the necessary change in the build off thread.

I still have, stored away, the Pushy Cat I built twenty-odd years ago for an Irvine Mills 0.75 and rudder only R/C using a single proportional servo. Regarding CG and incidences I can only say that mine was set up EXACTLY as per the original Aeromodeller plan, and it flew absolutely beautifully. I intend to build a new fuselage for the original flying surfaces with a "rocking platform" on which the tailplane can be strapped to produce an AMT, but this time (of course!) powered by an electric motor.

In the second of the two photos below you can see how little rudder area is required, only the bottom part moves. It all moved at first and was WAY too powerful.

It is a lovely, quirky looking little aeroplane. BTW mine DOES have the wing tip slots - I can't say whether or not they contributed to the delightful handling, but they didn't do any harm.

Good luck!
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Old Aug 04, 2013, 02:08 AM
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Well I've made a start and have decided to build the model as per plan with wing slots and not to modify the decalage. I'll monitor its flight characteristics and make adjustments if necessary.

Must clear the work bench before I start to build the wings!
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Old Aug 04, 2013, 02:20 AM
I like real wooden aeroplanes!
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Love that workbench David, and the sophisticated system for holding down work!
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Old Aug 04, 2013, 02:44 AM
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Built one for electric about 3 years ago and modified the dihedral and incidences as per the forementioned thread )(http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=602980 ). Wrote the fuselage off just before I moved house due mainly to too soft wood being used for the fuselage sides. Fished out the plans earlier today with the intention of building a new fuselage.
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Old Oct 17, 2013, 05:14 AM
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I've got this far.
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Old Oct 17, 2013, 06:05 AM
So I'M meant to be in control?
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Ilkley, West Yorkshire, UK
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Now that's starting to look like a Pushy Cat!

...you've also tidied the bench a bit!
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Old Oct 17, 2013, 07:02 AM
I like real wooden aeroplanes!
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That's pretty good progress David - crack on with it!!
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Old Oct 22, 2013, 12:42 AM
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Progress report.

Having built the fuselage and tailplane I've started on the wings. Never built a swept wing model before and it required a little mental adjustment when filing the rib slots in the TE.

There are some strange wood sizes on the plan. The the leading edge, 1/4"x3/16," was not a problem, I simply cut a 3/16" strip from a 1/4" sheet using a long metal ruler, I didn't bother setting up my balsa stripper. The trailing edge however was 3/4"x3/16." I could not find any stock TE in that size so bought 1/2"x1/8"TE, glued a piece of my Uncle Ivor's seventy year-old 1/4" square balsa to it and planed and sanded it down to fit!

I have now finished the basic construction of the starboard wing or "mainplane" as my old friend Frank Wall, ex RAF would have called it.
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Old Oct 22, 2013, 01:20 AM
I like real wooden aeroplanes!
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That's one way round the problem David, another I have used when I haven't had the right stuff in stock is to cut 1/4" off the front of a 1" x 1/4" TE. However, 3/4" x 3/16" is a stock size - see the Balsa Cabin list.
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Old Oct 22, 2013, 04:56 AM
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I see that SLEC also sell TE in that size but neither of my local model shops stocked it when I needed it.
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Old Oct 22, 2013, 07:57 AM
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Canada, ON, Hamilton
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It's starting to take shape now, looking good.
I wonder if it will have the "tail wag" like the PZ Icon A5.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...ghlight=icona5

Other than the swept wing, both are pushers with a high stab.
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Old Nov 01, 2013, 06:38 AM
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Taking shape.

The reason it's propped against a wall is that I stripped the starboard leading edge out of fairly hard balsa sheet. When it came to making up a leading edge for the port wing I found that I couldn't find the sheet so I had to use some much lighter wood. I'll have to add a little lead to the port wing tip.

Needless to say I found the harder sheet the very next morning!
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Old Nov 01, 2013, 08:36 AM
I like real wooden aeroplanes!
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Looks like an aeroplane now David!
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Old Nov 03, 2013, 01:25 AM
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Not being very knowledgeable about, or greatly interested in electric flight, I'd appreciate the benefit of your knowledge and experience, gentlemen.

All of the formers in the Belair Pushy Cat kit are fretted out with large oval holes and I have always assumed that this was to allow a through-draught of air to cool the speed controller. However, there is no frontal air intake.

Should I;

1. Open up the front former and nose block so that the extreme nose would look like a Thunderbolt jet!

2. Provide some sort of air intake, i.e, a hole in the fuselage under-sheeting between F1 and F2.

3. Leave everything alone and just see what happens.

I realise that the original Pushy Cat was powered by a small diesel engine and that the electric motor on the Belair version is pretty well out in the breeze but I don't want to fry the speed controller if I can help it.
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