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Old Jun 01, 2014, 03:38 PM
tau
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Joined Aug 2006
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John,

thanks for sharing your infos!
Quote:
We may want to take this to a different thread if we want to continue the discussion.
Sure! I'll give it a go with your parameters and then start a new thread with my share of experience on working with corian.

Cheers, Tunc
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Old Jun 20, 2014, 01:43 PM
Graham Kirkland
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Port Alfred South Africa
Joined Jun 2009
335 Posts
Time for an update

The first news is that the Necuron did not work well. I had the same problems as with the plexiglass and in addition, the Necuron is too soft to use for moulds. So that idea is scrapped. Quite a lot of Necuron that I have to find another use for.

I have decided to bite the bullet and go for a full set of aluminium moulds and the cutting is already happening.

I already have the stab mould and it is sanded and polished. Tonight I will finish the mould surface prep and put the first part in tomorrow.

In the meantime, I have been making verticals in the aluminium mould that I have had for a while, and every one is coming out perfect.

The bad news is that the only fully moulded prototype that I managed to get from the plexiglass moulds has been destroyed. I flew a contest last weekend and it was SAMed in the second round. I was comming in to land, about 5m up when it happened.

Oh well !! I suppose I will have lots more soon.

Graham
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Old Jun 20, 2014, 02:19 PM
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Bad luck about the prototype but the ali molds sound the way to go. You should get a long life for the extra investment. Your perseverance with this project is epic, the sort of determination that much of the world today has lost. Good to see it is still alive in the Republic, there are pockets of it here too.

We are going to watch out for the Poms in the next World Cup, your juniors played all the Ruby but England came away with the win. Our chance to get senior retribution tonight.
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Old Jun 23, 2014, 01:18 PM
Detail Freak
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Those aluminum molds look really purposeful.
Keep moving forward!

R,
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Old Jun 23, 2014, 02:13 PM
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Graham,

How do you finish off the AL molds to remove the minor tool markings? I have started to finish a small corian mold but wonder if it is done the same way or can be. I am curious about retaining the proper contour tolerances.

Those surfaces look great.

Chris
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Old Jun 23, 2014, 03:13 PM
Graham Kirkland
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Port Alfred South Africa
Joined Jun 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thermaln2 View Post
Graham,

How do you finish off the AL molds to remove the minor tool markings? I have started to finish a small corian mold but wonder if it is done the same way or can be. I am curious about retaining the proper contour tolerances.

Those surfaces look great.

Chris
Lots of elbow grease with plain old sanding and polishing. I start with 320 or 400 grit and try to ensure that I dont re-sand any areas where the tooling marks are already cleared. I am then pretty sure that I am removing about the same amount of material over the whole surface area. I then move on to 800, 1500 and finish with 2500 grit. All wet sanded. I polish with a local product called "Bulldog one step cutting creme" using a cotton wheel in a hand drill. If the 2500 grit has been done properly, you dont have to do much polishing.

I dont think that hand sanding with 400 grit is going to remove more than a few of hundredths of a mm and I can live with that sort of error. Those few hundredths of a mm have to come off anyway for proper release and appearance of the part.

I have pulled a couple of parts from the aluminium stab mould now and I must say that it is producing very nice parts. The finish is outstanding and they literally fall out of the mould. The Zyvax release system may have its problems with unconventional mould materials, but it certainly works very well with metal moulds

Graham
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Old Jun 24, 2014, 01:00 AM
Graham Kirkland
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Port Alfred South Africa
Joined Jun 2009
335 Posts
Wing Joining tool

One of the things that is important to me in this development is to deliver value for money and so it is important to keep shipping costs down. To keep shipping costs down, it is necessary that the wing is joined by the customer. Now I appreciate that joining a DLG wing may be intimidating to some people who are new to the process of building a DLG. So I have tried to make the process as simple as possible.

The wing root is hardened in the mould and is fully ready to join as supplied. The only prep work needed is to lightly sand the root. There is provision for two 3mm carbon rod incidence pins and a joining tool can be supplied as an option at $20.

I have just completed the development of the joining tool and a couple of pics are attached.

I only have a sample of one side of the wing until my moulds are finished, but I am sure you get the idea

Graham
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Old Jun 24, 2014, 03:58 AM
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Joined Sep 2009
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That's fantastic and well worth the extra 20!

I normally hate joining wings but this looks fool proof.

I'm impressed that after so many set backs you keep going and things turn out even better every next stage.

Graham, keep up the good work and hope I'm still on that list!
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Old Jun 24, 2014, 02:30 PM
Detail Freak
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Harbor City, CA
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+1, looks like a great idea.

Vr,
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Old Jun 24, 2014, 02:33 PM
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Graham,

Thanks for the info. Peter Williams in New Zealand or Australia (sorry Peter), did CNC mold work and he told me when I asked a long time ago, that he added some light spray paint to the surface. Sanding removed paint from the high points and left paint in the valleys. when one sands with a flat surface, he sanded until the valley paint was gone. I just don't have the nerve to use paint on the parts I have, but might try it. All in all, elbow grease is used.

Nice idea about the wing joiners. It is nice that both wings are joined at the same incidence to eachother. Saves a lot of headaches.

Great job.

Chris
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Old Jun 24, 2014, 02:47 PM
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Neat joiner Graham, please add one to my order.
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