drcigg,

Yes. In the BMI Free Flight Simulator version there's a BMI Arrow 1400 which is very similar except it's 4 channel and more powerful. I've just tried editing a copy of that model and it's very easy to make it 3 channel, like an EasyStar.

If you install the BMI sim to the default location it's in

C:\program files\BMI Flight Simulator\aircraft\BMI Arrow 1400

You can use the Aircraft Editor that comes with RCDP (the other version) to edit the PAR file in that folder, or make a copy of the folder, and edit that. I copied it to the user folder for BMI, which is My Documents\BMI Flight Simulator\Aircraft\<folder for this model> I then renamed the folder to BMI Broken Arrow 1400 and renamed the PAR file inside it to BMI Broken Arrow 1400.par

The next stage was to start up the Aircraft Editor and open that file. The first thing I tried was go to the Misc tab and untick "Has ailerons". That works, as far as I know - the rudder moves from the right stick instead of the left (for mode 2 - left throttle) but the ailerons still appear to move with the same stick. So on my next attempt, I reduced the throws on both ailerons to +/- 0 degrees. That's done from the Graphics tab.

If it's not breaking any rules, I could attach a zipped copy of the new PAR file, or even the whole folder.

What I've ended up with is an over powered EasyStar with too much rudder response - which is quite fun. Those things could be fixed in the Aircraft Editor to make it more realistic though. It's reasonably close in power to my brushless 3s lipo EasyStar with a 2200Kv motor, but a lot more powerful than the stock speed 400 brushed motor. Also, getting that much rudder response on an EasyStar would probably involve enlarging the fin and rudder.

The model appears further down the list, with the other added models, not in the list of BMI ones at the top. I guess that's because of where I put it.

Rather than changing the aileron deflection you could change the dropdown where it says ailerons to say none.

That's what I did first, numanair, but the ailerons still move. I don't think they're actually doing anything but they still get drawn as moving if you look at the plane up close. You have to do both to make it look right as well as fly 3CH.

Originally Posted by Andy2No

The first thing I tried was go to the Misc tab and untick "Has ailerons". That works, as far as I know - the rudder moves from the right stick instead of the left (for mode 2 - left throttle) but the ailerons still appear to move with the same stick. So on my next attempt, I reduced the throws on both ailerons to +/- 0 degrees. That's done from the Graphics tab.

Oh yes, I suppose it would still affect flight dynamics. Do you know if 3 channel planes using ailerons (no rudder) are possible? I set the rudder effectiveness all the way down, but I think it still yaws the plane.

Have you tried setting the rudder throw (both ways) to zero, on the Graphics tab?

Hi, I am just getting into this and downloaded the RCDP. I am building a GWS E-Starter and wondered if there's a model for it. I will be using my DX7i with the Sim.

Thanks,

Jay

Originally Posted by ovrclkd

Hi, I am just getting into this and downloaded the RCDP. I am building a GWS E-Starter and wondered if there's a model for it. I will be using my DX7i with the Sim.

Thanks,

Jay

Haven't seen the E-Starter but you can see alot of the planes listed

Here

.


Just realized how far behind i am in updating ... 11 months uggg .. Sorry guys . Theres hockey to watch tonight a good time to get at it

Originally Posted by Wilfor

Haven't seen the E-Starter but you can see alot of the planes listed

Here

.


Just realized how far behind i am in updating ... 11 months uggg .. Sorry guys . Theres hockey to watch tonight a good time to get at it

Thanks, I downloaded SmartPropolus & PpJoy and I still cannot get the DX7 to be recognized in windows 7 64bit. It shows the vJoy in device manager, I have the DX7 connected with a mono cable to my mic input (Realtek Audio sees it) but there is no response. When I start RCDP the plane is on the ground going in circles. Also the DX7 does not respond to calibration. Can anyone help me?

did you try calibrating in RCDP or in Windows ?

Did you follow the instructions on the sppp website? Check the thermometer tool that it came with to see if the bars move when you move the sticks. Check what port is selected in the console.

Originally Posted by ovrclkd

Thanks, I downloaded SmartPropolus & PpJoy and I still cannot get the DX7 to be recognized in windows 7 64bit. It shows the vJoy in device manager, I have the DX7 connected with a mono cable to my mic input (Realtek Audio sees it) but there is no response. When I start RCDP the plane is on the ground going in circles. Also the DX7 does not respond to calibration. Can anyone help me?

Here you said mono cable . in your other thread you said stereo jack ? 1 works 1 can damage / spread the inside of the plug on the DX7 . Which is good and which is bad i don't remember off hand .

It uses a mono cable.

Does the DX6i use a mono cable too?

I have a cheap USB flight sim adaptor with swappable ends, which works well with the transmitters I've tried it with, but I haven't tried it with my DX6i yet in case it does something bad. That uses a stereo cable, then adapters that plug onto it. It plugs directly into an old Parkzone RTF transmitter that a friend gave me - it came with his PZ T28 Trojan.

So far, I haven't had any problems with doing that, but maybe that Tx had a mono jack socket too. It turns on as soon as I plug in the cable. I've already killed two sets of batteries by forgetting to unplug it. Good job I was using alkalines, not my good NiMH AAs.

Originally Posted by Andy2No

Does the DX6i use a mono cable too?

I have a cheap USB flight sim adaptor with swappable ends, which works well with the transmitters I've tried it with, but I haven't tried it with my DX6i yet in case it does something bad. That uses a stereo cable, then adapters that plug onto it. It plugs directly into an old Parkzone RTF transmitter that a friend gave me - it came with his PZ T28 Trojan.

So far, I haven't had any problems with doing that, but maybe that Tx had a mono jack socket too. It turns on as soon as I plug in the cable. I've already killed two sets of batteries by forgetting to unplug it. Good job I was using alkalines, not my good NiMH AAs.

I've ruined two Dx5's by using a stereo cable. It works for the sim, but did something bad to the rf signal. Lots of dropouts and a few crashes. Took me a lot of effort to track down what was going on. Don't use a stereo cable!!

Thanks, Metman.

I guess I should make up a short adapter cable. I could try a stereo to mono jack adapter but they connect the two signal wires together (left and right audio channels, when used with an audio device) and that might just blow up the USB sim thingy. I don't know which of the two signal wires needs connecting, but it wouldn't take long to find out.