Now we're gonna get into the Wings!
Obviously, there's a left and a right Wing panel, so mirror these next few steps on both sides until we join them together.

This is HET's very first kit with composite Wings, and it came as a pleasant surprise to me! They are molded very nicely, have a wooden internal structure, along with strategically placed Carbon in addition to the very beefy main Wing Spar (Carbon Tube).

First up, test fit and hinge your Flaps, followed by your Ailerons. Assure plenty of deflection for both surfaces and no binding.
(A note on the flaps: This prototype kit has the flaps hinged in the middle. A request has been made for a change here, and the production model should come with the flaps hinged for better geometry and performance.)

Once completed, starting dropping in your Wing servos: one for each Flap and Aileron. Ball links work best on the stock metal control arm, and a steel clevis was used for the linkage to each servo arm. Be sure to attach any necessary servo extensions and fish them through and out the top of the Wing structure.

Now we start work on the Main Retracts. As you can see, the stock HET Retracts are very nice. They're full metal Air-Up/Spring-Down Retracts with some sweet Trailing Link suspension struts... it doesn't get much better than that. Bolt down the Main Retracts into the pre-molded Landing Gear bays, and attach a long length of air line to each unit. Take this time to fish the air line through and out the top of the Wing structure.

Repeat the previous steps for the opposite side Wing.

Next step is to join the Wing panels together!
Locate your Carbon Tube Wing Spar, and pick a side (doesn't matter which one). Mark out the middle of the spar, and epoxy one half of your spar into your selected Wing panel. Let the glue completely dry.

Before joining the Wing panels together, remember to sand down the paint on the root of each Wing panel so we get a solid glue joint. Take your time now, pre-fit the Wing panels together, and once you're comfortable with the fit, epoxy them together. Use rubbing alcohol to clean up any excess glue.
(After I applied glue to the Wing panels and fit them together, I applied a lengthwise piece of clear packing tape to the top of the Wing assembly. This keeps any excess glue from running down and ruining the finish of the model.)

Keep an eye on the Wing assembly while it dries. Once it's completely dry, you can temporarily bolt it onto your fuselage... she's starting to look like a completed airframe now!

Now is a good time to install your Nose Gear Retract and set up the air system, as well as the pull-pull nose steering cables.

Just like before, carefully bolt in your Nose Gear into the factory installed formers. Also install a long lead of air line out of the unit.
Now you'll need to plan out your equipment for the Air Tank, Actuator valve, and Valve servo. My pictures show just one method of installation... feel free to place your gear any way you want, so long as it works!
Once everything is installed, hook up your air lines to complete the system (via the provided air-system diagram) and test your gear to make sure it works correctly. Track down/repair any anomalies in the system now.

Originally Posted by AceMigKiller

NOPE!!!
Probably.
Mine came with the threaded rods and ball links, but I wrapped'em in carbon for added strength.

Vic

Awesome. Another one of those things that will set this kit apart, proper linkage hardware for a high-performance jet.

hey how about some picks with the batterys in.the batt compartment looks narrow.10s packs looks like a tight fit in such a small area. thanks

hmm, delta version, that would look pretty cool i recon!

Originally Posted by henry541

hey how about some picks with the batterys in.the batt compartment looks narrow.10s packs looks like a tight fit in such a small area. thanks

It is a little narrow in there, but I can still fit my flight packs in it no problem.
I run a 10s (6 + 4) 4200 setup, but as you can see in the pics below, 12s (6 + 6) fits just fine as well. With these 4200's I have plenty of room to slide them forward and aft by about an inch either way.

The biggest packs I fit in there were Hyperion 12s 5000's. A little bit of a tight fit with not as much room for adjustments, but I think 12s 4200's will be the sweet spot... should get you at least 4 1/2 minutes of very aggressive flight, or closer to 5 1/2 sport flying.

Vic

hmm, seems to have more room than i thought it might in there....hmm.......12s 5000....i wonder if i can fit 3 4s packs in there...

Heck ya Brent!!! Im really wanting one these snipers. Had the old one and stuffed 8s 3200mha in it 3000watts all day long but only for 3.5 min. at a time I see fitting 12s into the new sniper with 12s we should get 4500 watts Im getting 4000watts out of 10s with a HETfan

Originally Posted by corsair nut

hmm, seems to have more room than i thought it might in there....hmm.......12s 5000....i wonder if i can fit 3 4s packs in there...

Vic,
First thanks for doing this very informative build thread,i have used the newer Het fans in my last three models along with the matching 700 series motors and apart from the mounting lugs being at the rear of the shroud they have performed very well.
Vic can you ask the nice guys at Het to put the mounting lugs in the centre or at the other end as its a lot easier to attach a thrust tube,
cheers Euan.

Originally Posted by corsair nut

hmm, seems to have more room than i thought it might in there....hmm.......12s 5000....i wonder if i can fit 3 4s packs in there...

Originally Posted by egall232

Vic can you ask the nice guys at Het to put the mounting lugs in the centre or at the other end as its a lot easier to attach a thrust tube,
cheers Euan.

Brent,
Here's some pics of Two 4s 4200's and One 6s 2950 (very close in size).
It's a very tight fit, but possible! You'd definitely have to rework the way you mount your packs... mine's tailored for my 6s packs.



Euan,
I completely agree!!! And for some reason, that's one thing that always slips my mind... let me make a note to forward that question to the factory.

Vic

Originally Posted by egall232

Vic can you ask the nice guys at Het to put the mounting lugs in the centre or at the other end as its a lot easier to attach a thrust tube,
cheers Euan.

The reason the lugs are at the back is balance, its the best point for supporting the motor, I would not want them forward, much easier to make your thrust tube using the front of the fan as the guide, then cut 2 slots in the tube 5mm long and slide it over the mounts and tape top and bottom.

Or they could just add 15mm to the rear of the shroud, it would make it convenient.

Yeah that's what I've been doing.
Brings up a good point though, that way the mass is spread out evenly and the weight of the motor isn't biased. Something to consider for sure.

thanks vic for the batt. pics. looks like there won't be a problem with batt. placement.looking forward to rest of the build..

This is the same Sniper only in epoxy or has the fuse been reworked? I read the formers are precut for gear but what about the intakes and the intake duct divider, they look the same as the old ones or is it just me? I'd like to know what all has been changed. I like the paint scheme and the idea of precut formers and epoxy but. Please enlighten me as I don't see a reason to get on the wagon with everyone.