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Old Jul 07, 2014, 04:09 AM
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Rubber ring not tight into the hull? Other questions about fiberglas hull and leaks..

Hello.

I got a tfl smash shark, i notice that the rubber sealer ring is not tight into the hull around there the flex plastic pipe going out of the hull.
From the inside its all into the hull and glued so it not leaks.
Have it anything to say if i use it like it is now?
Take a look at the pics, i could not push it all the way in to the hull so it is a gap there.

Thanks for reply

Edit: look at the third post with new questions, got leaks after run today..
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Last edited by waterprooof; Jul 07, 2014 at 12:43 PM.
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Old Jul 07, 2014, 05:30 AM
Boaters are nice people.
Sneek, Netherlands.
Joined May 2004
4,879 Posts
That's the level of craftmanship assembling these boats.

When it doesn't leak and the flexshaft turns OK, just use it as it is.

Regards, Jan.
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Old Jul 07, 2014, 12:41 PM
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Thank you for the reply Jan
I also have other question about leaks and fiberglas hull.
When the boat was new i tighten everything and regrease the flex shaft.
After the first two run the boat was 100% dry inside.
On the third run i got about one tspoon of water inside after 9 minutes of runtime.

I have it in my bathtub now, and when it just stand there it not leak, but when i push the boat down from rear on the boat its leak from 3 places:
Around metal pipe to the servo implementation ( servo rod goes into this metal tube when i turn full over to both side) Could that make the leak around here if the rod bend the implementation littlebit?

Around the metal pipe to the water hose implementation
Around one of the screw to the rudder ( i have tighten it but it still give a few drop)

I wonder how it could suddently leak from theas places on the third run when the two first run was dry?
I guess the glue would fix theas small leak issue to the hull, should i use a soft glue from loctite factory that is easy to remove later or should i use epoxy?

When it leaks water trough the hul where the factory have drilled hole the material get wet inside? Have read that the gelcoat dosnt like water or untreaten fiberglas?
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Old Jul 07, 2014, 01:07 PM
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rbachmann's Avatar
Stuttgart, Germany
Joined Apr 2010
185 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by waterprooof View Post
Thank you for the reply Jan
I also have other question about leaks and fiberglas hull.
When the boat was new i tighten everything and regrease the flex shaft.
After the first two run the boat was 100% dry inside.
On the third run i got about one tspoon of water inside after 9 minutes of runtime.

I have it in my bathtub now, and when it just stand there it not leak, but when i push the boat down from rear on the boat its leak from 3 places:
Around metal pipe to the servo implementation ( servo rod goes into this metal tube when i turn full over to both side) Could that make the leak around here if the rod bend the implementation littlebit?

Around the metal pipe to the water hose implementation
Around one of the screw to the rudder ( i have tighten it but it still give a few drop)

I wonder how it could suddently leak from theas places on the third run when the two first run was dry?
I guess the glue would fix theas small leak issue to the hull, should i use a soft glue from loctite factory that is easy to remove later or should i use epoxy?

When it leaks water trough the hul where the factory have drilled hole the material get wet inside? Have read that the gelcoat dosnt like water or untreaten fiberglas?
Nothing unexpected from a TFL Hull.

1. The steering-rod should not bend the tube - correct the EPA (end point adjustment) - you donīt need the whole steering way.
2. Did you use the (factory installed) bellows/boot (donīt know the correct word)? This should also solve the problem.
3. Seal the metal pipe for the water cooling with a small amount of CA glue from outside or epoxy resin from inside.
4. Put a drop of silicone into all the rudder screw holes before you mount the screws.
5. Check whether water comes in from the flexshaft.
Normally you have a vacuum inside the hull, which can also cause water coming in through the flexshaft.

This should fix your problems.

Roland

P.S: Water is absolutely no problem for the gelcoat. The gelcoat is the surface outside the hull and has always an intended contact with the water. Water is also no problem for the fiberglass, but it will be a problem for your esc or motor.
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Last edited by rbachmann; Jul 07, 2014 at 01:14 PM.
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Old Jul 07, 2014, 02:53 PM
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Hi. Thank you, then i know even untreaten fiberglas (drilling holes) have no problem with water

1: i tryed the lower hole on the plastic on the servo but it dosnt get better, its most bent to the side in the tube on full turns, but i could also bend it out from the side of the tube without using mutch power but it do slide inside the metal tube. I want it in center.. Is the only way to bend the steering rod? When it came rtr from factory it was worse so its littlebit better now.
Not sure if this is the reason for the small leak because it also leak at the other parts that i mention

On the tip number 2 you mention that i could use the bellows/ boot? Dont find theas word in google translate, try to wright them on Germany?
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Old Jul 07, 2014, 03:11 PM
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Stuttgart, Germany
Joined Apr 2010
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That is what i mean -> http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...ts+%26+Linkageclick

The end point adjustment of your steering rod should be done with your transmitter, not with the servo horn.
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Old Jul 07, 2014, 03:21 PM
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Ok, yes i use the factory rubber boots

You mean that i could just adjust the turns on the tranamitor so it not turn so mutch? I have notice that i dosnt turn mutch to get the boat to turn alot, only in low speed the left turn suck.
Just try that now and it help but it still slide inside the metal tube against the hull, how could i get it in the middle?

I have just warm up the hull from inside on rear with a hair dryer to remove water from the holes before i use glue to fix the leak and i notice that the hull get very hot, about 140-150 farenheit or 65 celsius maby vafter i was finish.

Do you know how warm the factory glue on the hull could be before it take damage? And if it was almost melted, would it be stiff and still strong or is it broken after it been heated up?
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Last edited by waterprooof; Jul 07, 2014 at 03:34 PM.
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Old Jul 07, 2014, 03:30 PM
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Stuttgart, Germany
Joined Apr 2010
185 Posts
Yes use the transmitter EPA and reduce the servo steering rate. 70% should be enough.
Mono hulls normally perform bad in left turns, that's physics.

65š degrees celsius should not be a problem for the hull.
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Old Jul 27, 2014, 11:12 AM
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Joined Jul 2014
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I use clear bathroom sealant for sealing my boats. It's waterproof, you can smear it just about anywhere and it's easy to remove without leaving a mark should the need ever arise. It's really cheap too. Obviously you could use any colour you like, but at least you can't see the clear until you look really close at the boat.
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