|Jul 12, 2010, 06:49 PM|
Enya 46-4C performace
I got my $12.50 Enya 46-4C up and running. It was all gummed up and had some light rust in the cam box. I cooked it in antifreeze overnight and it looks like new. Bearings are smooth.
I had to put on a piece of tubing to help seal up the needle valve as the fit was loose. This helped to keep it running at full throttle. I am getting 11,100 RPM on a MA 11x6 prop on 15% Cruel Power with 4 oz of Sig castor added to the gallon. Is this within spec for this engine? I plan on putting it in a SIG LT-40 ARF.
I also noticed that there were bubbles leaking around the lower orings that seal the pushrod tubes at full RPM. Is this OK?
Where can I get parts if needed? Mainly a needle valve and orings for the pushrod tubes.
There isn't pressure tap on the muffler. Is this required? It has a airbleed type carb.
The forward pointing glow plug makes removing the glow driver very intereisting to say the least. Finger nail trimmer
|Jul 12, 2010, 07:02 PM|
The tubing on the needle is a factory issue item. The power you see is in line. A little leakage the pushrod covers won't do anything but make a mess. Enya still has parts, order direct at www.enya-engine.com email them for parts. No muffler pressure required. Do use a remote glow like McDaniel offers. I happen to have a pile of parts for the 46-4C. Don't run too much nitromethane if you don't have the extra head shims installed.
I have the manual on my website if you need it.
|Jul 12, 2010, 07:19 PM|
Thanks for the info on the needle. The tubing was missing when I got the engine.
It only has one head shim installed. I have a gallon of 5% Omega. Should I use that instead?
I do have the small orange McDaniels sub C remote glow drivers. I'll use them instead of my power panel glow clip.
I am going to make a valve cover gasket from a manilla envelope as oil leaks from there as well.
|Jul 12, 2010, 08:56 PM|
It would be strange to leak oil at the valve cover unless the valve guide is worn or you put in a lot of extra oil during assembly.
I have some gaskets I made for the 46-4C I can PDF. Print it right on to your paper and cut it out.
|Jul 12, 2010, 10:20 PM|
There is no bubbling at the valve cover. The oil just seeps out. That would be great if you PDF the gaskets. I did add castor to the vlave area prior to assembly.
|Jul 14, 2010, 10:51 AM|
United States, TX, Weatherford
Joined Dec 2006
Jason, he is trying to tell you to use a remote glow plug hook up to avoid having your hands close the the prop. As you know the one draw back on an Enya is the glow plug is on the front of the cylinder head, not the rear like most of the other engines.
My first engine in RC was an Enya 54-4C and I recall getting my knuckles nipped a time or two. I regret having sold that Kadet Senior with that engine. My mistake. Wish I still had it, a great engine.
|Jul 14, 2010, 11:27 AM|
Some Clarence Lee & Peter Chinn Enya 46 4S test figures from "way-back-when"...
Dear Jason in WI and Fellow Four Stroke Fans:
The PIPE Here...I've got one Enya four stroke myself, a 60-4C with only some 70 minutes of run-in time on it, that's in the nose of a 30% framed, scratchbuilt 1/6th scale Fokker D VII WW I bipe...
...and another veteran scale aircraft of mine I've had since 1978, a Sig 1/6th scale Piper J-3 built as an L-4 Grasshopper, is aching to get a brand-new set of lighter-weight wings framed up for it in time (the kit's wood for the wing panel parts was simply TOO heavy) and, since it's the ONLY four stroker that can fit completely within the scratchbuilt fiberglass cowl, either an Enya 46-4C or a 53-4C to get it airborne once more, sometime in the future, when I can end my unemployed status (out of work since September 2008)...!
I've got copies of two generic RC four stroke engine books, both of which are apparently still available - Clarence Lee's "The R/C Four Stroke Engine" from RC Modeler Magazine, and Peter Chinn's "Model Four Stroke Engines" through Air Age, the publisher of Model Airplane News magazine.
Both of these books have engine test figures on the Enya 46-4C in them, and here's the full throttle RPM figures each book's author observed...
From Clarence Lee in the RCM-published book...
Fuel was 10% nitro, 15% oil, air temp. of 70ºF and dewpoint of 48ºF, no head shims installed, and all figures with Top Flite "Super-M" maple props, which are no longer manufactured...
10 x 6: 12,900
10 x 8: 11,200
11 x 6: 11,300
11 x 8: 9,850
12 x 5: 10,100
12 x 6: 9,700
14 x 6: 7,200
Peter Chinn's figures from the Air Age book ran as follows, with an air temp. of 66ºF, dewpoint of 56ºF and run on 10% nitro fuel with no oil percentage given, in the book's one-page entry (the full test article was in the November 1984 Model Airplane News issue):
10 x 6 Top Flite maple prop: 12,000
10 x 6 Zinger wood prop: 11,600
10 x 7 Zinger wood prop: 11,100
10-1/2 x 6 "MK" glass prop: 11,050
11 x 6 Top Flite maple prop: 10,400
12 x 4 Zinger wood prop: 10,200
12 x 5 Top Flite maple prop: 9,400
12 x 6 Zinger wood prop: 8,800
Since it's "torque" that's responsible for spinning the prop, the "performance curves" for the Enya 46-4C in the Air Age book's review page show its torque curve graph flattens out at between 8,000 and 9,000 rpm, which might give a 12 inch diameter two blade prop the best performance with it, for flying "on the wing", providing the prop is of a decent pitch level (perhaps a five or six inch pitch might be best??).
The only way I'd be able to get an Enya 46-4C these days would be to get it used, from a forum like ours, or off EEK-bay...the Enya 53-4C might still be available from Enya directly, as I think BJ's Model Engine Repair in CT might be a US-located sales agent for them (although I COULD be wrong about that).
My L-4 would need a scale diameter 12" prop, and I'd bet that either a 46 or 53, the most likely 4-stroke engine models that would fit entirely within the L-4's cowl, in an inverted installation, are still the VERY best bets to get it flying again, once the new light-weight wings are built for it.
Two photos of L-4s are attached to this reply...one of the actual subject aircraft, taken in the summer of 1978 in Rockland, ME with my grandmother's old 127-film Brownie camera (hence its fuzziness), and the other, a digital photo of my L-4's model's fuselage in storage here at home, with the unfinished Enya 60-4C outfitted D VII right next to it.
Hope these RPM listings might be of some help...
|Jul 14, 2010, 01:44 PM|
Joined Oct 2004
Now THAT wing is heavy!
|Jul 14, 2010, 07:38 PM|
Don't forget, that copper-bearing brick red RTV is a great gasket-maker in a pinch!
Dear Jason in Wisconsin:
The PIPE Here again...you're very welcome to those RPM figures...I'm just hoping to get some MORE freelancing CAD work from a New England-area free flight rubber scale aeromodeling company that I did some laser-cut balsa drawings for one of their kits (a 1/16th scale Bf 109)...if everything goes well, a P-51D Mustang in that scale could be next...as the "Biff" kit's parts drawings earned me a few hundred to help out with things as I approach the end of my unemployment checks by the end of this summer.
If I can manage to get some funds from either that work, or perhaps even some bringing-together of wire harness kits for my fellow RC transmitter builders that "live online" at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/MP8K/ , to help them build up their custom Tx-es that use the amazing computer-chip-based Tx encoder that we can all check out at http://mstar2k.com/ ...!!!
SOME money from either of those income sources, or perhaps a bit saved up from workfare, ginger ale can returns, etc, would be saved up to get an Enya 46 or 53, most likely a used one, to power that dear ol' L-4 Cub with.
For Jason in Wisconsin, you know you can make up a "gasket of your own" with those RTV silicone sealants, and for the high heat you'll have for the valve cover on your own Enya, one of the "copper-bearing" brick-red-colored formulas (Permatex is one brand out there at the auto supply stores), that has actual copper metal powder in it to "take the heat", would be the very best bet for "making your own" gasket, right "in place" between the top of the cylinder head and the valve cover rim's underside. I used exactly that sort of high-temperature copper-bearing RTV silicone rubber to seal up any air gaps on the backside of the intake stack accessory on my Saito 56 four stroke's carburetor, to get it ready for powering my to-be-built Telemaster 40 kit.
One thought, though...in order to avoid the sort of rust and corrosion problems I've seen with those four stroke fans that run their "putt-putt mills" on "Cruel Power", you MIGHT want to try the one brand of fuel I've found to be the best, both way back in the 1980s, and right up through nowadays...
...the fuel whose prices are listed at http://www.fhsoils.com/model_prices.html ...!
Hope the idea for the brick red high-temp RTV silcone rubber for custom gaskets (and possibly FHS's Red Max fuel as well) works out for you...!
P.S. Marvel Air Tool oil makes a great after-run oil for preserving all our four strokers, between flights or for long-term storage!
|Jul 14, 2010, 10:50 PM|
I really appreciate your postings. They read like a welcome letter from an old friend.
Would you mind if I sent you a PM regarding the HB RC Xmtr ?
I have built discrete old school Xmtrs and some using the 4017/4071 encode-decode IC.
Time to try a HB Microprocessor based Xmtr.
TNX again for the posts, I read every one that I see.
Oh, one possible correction: Marvel Mystery oil may damage the fuel components in YS engines. This applies to both YS 2S and 4S engines. Otherwise FB.
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