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Old Dec 03, 2015, 07:30 AM
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Jack
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What happens when you try it on other than high timing? If it is breaking up at higher throttle than it is probably an issue with the ESC keeping up with the permutation rate. But if you have to use high time to get it to run, that is OK.

Looks and sounds like a good little motor to me, nice job on the winding and congrats!

The Wye termination is always a little deceptive when you compare it to what used to be a Delta term because the Wye term draws less current. That can give you a lower Watt meter reading and make you think it is not as good while it reall is just as good or even better.

On the thrust testing have you tried setting it up as a pusher with the prop reversed? That will take the air pressure off of the scale and that case and may give you better readings. If your scale will display negative value that works sometimes.

Jack
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Old Dec 03, 2015, 08:56 AM
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I will make more space between box and motor it will resolve the problem and will share thrust test on 3s and 4s.
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Old Dec 03, 2015, 02:57 PM
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I agree with Jack on testing it as a pusher. I tested them both once just to see. At 3" clearance, the difference is significant. At 6", notable. At 10", negligible. Comparing the pusher tests only, very little change from 3"-6", and none from 6"-10". Little doubt that this could vary depending on the setup, but it seemed fairly consistent on the ones that I tried.

I think it's safer too, especially if thrust exceeds the weight of the stand.
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Old Dec 03, 2015, 03:38 PM
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Jack
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Have you guys seen the thrust measuring stand I build a few months ago? That will be my final design forever test stand I think. Between the stand itself and the Arduino based thrust measuring setup I really like the way it works.

Motor Testing & Thrust Measuring Test Stand - www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2453306

Of course, I still have to explore the possibilities of getting all the data into a PC and in single spreadsheet file. So that much remains to be done yet.

Jack
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Old Dec 03, 2015, 03:46 PM
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Well just finished, my family is sleeping, so have performed a very fast test...

700 grams on 4s, 5040 Kingkong Props.... i think it is success!!!

3 декабря 2015 г. (0 min 12 sec)
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Old Dec 03, 2015, 03:51 PM
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Jack
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Looking good!

Jack
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Old Dec 03, 2015, 03:57 PM
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Looking good!

Jack
Thanks for all ideas guys it realy helped and pusher was a very good suggestion as well!

Tomorrow I am going to solder contacts to get reliable power contacts and will do 3s, 4s 5040/6040 tests in the morning will do quick test with 4s again.
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Old Dec 03, 2015, 04:25 PM
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Can you flip it over and reverse it? More free air that way. I'm actually curious how your tests would compare to mine. It has been said that thrust doesn't matter, but I think once you have a way to test it (even if it isn't accurate), you then have a way to compare motors.
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Old Dec 03, 2015, 04:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron H View Post
Can you flip it over and reverse it? More free air that way. I'm actually curious how your tests would compare to mine. It has been said that thrust doesn't matter, but I think once you have a way to test it (even if it isn't accurate), you then have a way to compare motors.
It is pushing right now if i flip it and reverse will pe almost the same, probably worth because it is not normal for prop aerodynamic.

But i will do it to compare.
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Old Dec 03, 2015, 09:01 PM
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Jack
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I think what most of us find to be different is that when the prop wash is close to a surface of some area it affects the readings of thrust. Imagine that the prop and motor are pulling in one direction and the prop wash is pushing in the other and that is taking some of the pressure or travel out of the measuring system.

So by trying it both ways you will see some difference in the readings.

Jack
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Old Dec 04, 2015, 02:45 AM
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Is it ok that i have overheat with motor (it is realy become very hot) on 4s 6040 props? It means that i can not use those props on 4s anymore ;(
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Old Dec 04, 2015, 06:41 AM
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Was the motor too hot to keep your fingers on it? If so, that is over 130F/54C and that is probably getting near to a dangerous heat in the windings.

Good dual coated winding wire is rated for operation at 155C or 200C and the makers have assured me that it will operate at that temperature continuously without breaking down the insulation. But I have never taken a motor up to that high a temp in the windings and run it for a long period of time to see if that is true.

There is a good chance that, even though the motor overheats at 100% throttle if you back off the 80% or so it will be OK at that setting. So do you need to fly at 100% for long periods of time?

It is OK to have a motor that is time limited at full throttle if you only use that much for short bursts. It put the onus on you to know what the limits are and to adhere to those.

Look at the red temperature trace on this motor, that was with a temp sensor in contact with the windings. You can see the temp rise, then stabilize and float up and down a little at 100% throttle. Then, after stopping, the heat soaked windings rose to about 125F. So while that motor was hot it may not have been in any real danger.

Magnets will not handle as much heat as windings and magnetic losses due to heat are permanent. But as long as the motor is cooled down at reduced throttle the heat soaked windings should not overheat the magnets.

Getting more performance out of a motor without damaging the motor can require considerable testing and attention to detail as the motor is run.

Jack
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Old Dec 07, 2015, 04:06 PM
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I have a decent supply of winding wire leftover from before commercially available gimbal motors. Looking to sell it all as a lot. Some of the rolls haven't even been opened. 25,26,27,28,29,30, (3)32, 2lb 36 AWG Temco brand

PM if interested
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Old Jan 15, 2016, 08:20 PM
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homo ludens modellisticus
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This thread Outrunner Disassembly and Stripping
added to opening post of the
(Re)winding and building motors, tips & tricks, checks & tests sticky.

Prettig weekend Ron
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Old Jan 15, 2016, 09:40 PM
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Jack
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Thank you, Sir!

Jack
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