Originally Posted by jimhokie

OK, so what/where is the gyro? Is it the bar above the rotors (which certainly creates a gyroscopic stabilizing force) or is there some electronic gyro on the PCB?

It is usually a silver colored rectangular box shape on the PCB...above the blades is the flybar.

Yeah, the gyro is electronic. Google 'MEMS gyro' for some mind-blowing info.

The bar above the rotors is the flybar which changes the angle of the top blade. That top blade serves as a damper to any roll and pitch of the helicopter and attempts to mechanically bring it back to a hover.

Originally Posted by jimhokie

OK, so what/where is the gyro? Is it the bar above the rotors (which certainly creates a gyroscopic stabilizing force) or is there some electronic gyro on the PCB?

Here's a couple of pictures of it. In the first picture, it is that metalic thing in the middle of the picture which casts a blue reflection. In the 2nd picture it is the component that is to the left of the screw holes, standing up on the PCB.

This is a simple electronic gyro. It holds the heading only. There are more sophisticated gyro that works on 3-axis.

The weighted flybar on top of the rotors is also a physical gyro. It acts on the principle of a gyro, and once it spins up, it wants to hold that plane of motion. If the helicopter moves away from that plane, it fights to keep it by changing the angle of the top rotors via the links. It is the main reason why you are able to let go of the cyclic control, and the S107G just comes back to a steady hover.

Still, IMHO, the bestus 3 channel heli ever made!

SYMAS107G AD (2 min 21 sec)

Originally Posted by Getto Bird

You know I popped a 150mAH battery back in my s107g and seems like all the original checks and balances are back….
I had up’ed the battery to a 200mAH and was a noticeable difference, she flew well but some how I like it back this way.

Have to agree with everyone on this. I had replaced the battery in my Swann with a 240 mAH unit and altho the helicopter was faster due to the change in CG, it did not seem to fly much longer and besides, charging with the USB cable took over 80 minutes!

Actually the Swann was on its second 240 mAH battery (had bought three) since wishing a shorter charging time, I had ruined the first using one of those Syma 115 VAC chargers.

Recently the Swann will fly for a few seconds before losing power. Turning the heli switch off and waiting, it will fly again for a few seconds, again and again.
The battery recharges normally, taking that same long amount of time using the USB cable, and also the rear motor for the top blades feels warm which makes me suspect that the motor needs to be replaced!

So, from now on it's back to 150 mAH batteries!

Thanks much for the education on the electronic gyro. I'm now even more impressed with the technology that's in the S107!

Now for something purely mechanical, has anyone devised any kind of modification to strengthen the pins that the upper rotor blades swivel on? I just replaced for the second time the plastic piece at the top of the main shaft after shearing one or both of those plastic pins. This seems to be a weak link. Maybe drill into the center of the plastic pins and insert a metal pin with a tight fit on each side to give it more strength? This would seem to require rather precise drilling capability though. Any other ideas besides just stocking up on spare main shafts?

Yup, if the S107 ever has a weakness, I think you have called it. Many have broke that pin and have no idea why their S107 was not working. At least you came to the right place and quickly found the problem and the remedy.

To do what you describe would take lots of precision. At the low replacement cost, I would recommend just get 2-3 of these. Hopefully, before you run out of them, you could become a good pilot and would never ever crash it in such a way that would break it. A few bucks for the training is well worth it.

Yep, improved piloting would go a long way to avoid sheared rotor pins! But I find as my piloting skills improve, I do tend to push the envelope while flying around my house to keep it challenging.

Originally Posted by jimhokie

Yep, improved piloting would go a long way to avoid sheared rotor pins! But I find as my piloting skills improve, I do tend to push the envelope while flying around my house to keep it challenging.

The old saying "Learn to walk before you can run" comes to mind.

You admit your piloting skills need improving, therefore learn to fly before pushing any envelopes. The S107 is not a fast flying helicopter so keeping it under control should not take that long to learn.

Keeping it challenging should be about being in control of your heli, preventing crashes and causing damage to your heli. Have you tried precision landings e.g. on a cd case or something similar. Fitting a hook to the skids made from a paper clip or piece of wire and picking up a small load, transporting it to another point and placing it down.

It is up to you whether you follow the advice being offered, however if you don't be prepared to keep putting your hand in your pocket.

John.

Originally Posted by jimhokie

Thanks much for the education on the electronic gyro. I'm now even more impressed with the technology that's in the S107!

Now for something purely mechanical, has anyone devised any kind of modification to strengthen the pins that the upper rotor blades swivel on? I just replaced for the second time the plastic piece at the top of the main shaft after shearing one or both of those plastic pins. This seems to be a weak link. Maybe drill into the center of the plastic pins and insert a metal pin with a tight fit on each side to give it more strength? This would seem to require rather precise drilling capability though. Any other ideas besides just stocking up on spare main shafts?

When the 107 lands and falls over on its side, don't try to right it by giving it rotor power. Been there done that, broken pins.
And be sure to cut power when a crash is imminent.

Originally Posted by TSquare123

When the 107 lands and falls over on its side, don't try to right it by giving it rotor power. Been there done that, broken pins.
And be sure to cut power when a crash is imminent.

I frequently right my 107 with a burst of rotor power - probably 3+ times per flight (I crash a lot). Never broke a pin. I'm an armchair pilot so I hate getting up to set it properly.

We recently rented a beach house that had a large hardwood floor running from the kitchen into the family room. We had a BLAST skating our 107's around the floor. Just give it enough juice to lift the rear of the ski's and go full forward. It moves very quickly gliding across the floor. You can drift it around corners too. It was fun.

We even played soccer with a ping pong ball!

I agree with TSquare on this. I have fixed several S107s for kids because they have done exactly that - righting the helicopter with its own rotors. Typical damage is stripped gears. It may or may not break the pivot pin. But in general, I think it is a bad practice. Veccster, you may continue to do so if you understand the risk you are taking. I just won't recommend it for the new pilots. If you want your S107 to last, get up and go pick it up.

Being that this is an enthusiasts forum...you are correct to teach that it is bad practice to stand it up using the motor.
I should have included the disclaimer that it is not recommended to do and could damage the internals. Just wanted to share that, in my experience, it has not caused damage. I am very aware that it could though.

Yes, Veccster, I appreciate you sharing your experience with the forum. And that's the beauty of it. There is not just one experience but many different experiences. There is a much higher likelihood of stripped gears, but it is not a guaranteed result. YMMV, as they say. New pilots need to be informed both ways, so they understand the risk and weight it against the convenience. Good luck to you and happy flying.

BTW, I just answered your questions on 4ch helicopters. Feel free to discuss.