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Old Nov 09, 2014, 10:17 AM
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Build Log
VK Fokker DR-1

Starting a early seventies VK Fokker DR-1. 1/6 scale
I picked this one up in an auction over the summer. This is my first attempt at building a large scale kit. I have only built several Guillows models in the past and became bored with the process, but they taught me a lot about balsa construction. For me, this kit is more about the building process and not the flying of the model. I will construct it to fly, but it might never get off the ground or should I say, I will not be the one behind the sticks.
The first thing I noticed was the excess parts that obviously did not come with the kit. After sorting thru the box, I identified the pieces I had from the pieces i did not need. Lucky for me, there is the internet. I found the kit is still produced by Proctor Enterprises. http://proctor-enterprises.com
I made a short list of the parts I thought I needed to get started and they were quickly made and shipped to me.
More to come.
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Last edited by Kansaskiller; Nov 09, 2014 at 10:40 AM. Reason: Should be in Build Log
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Old Nov 09, 2014, 10:51 AM
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A friend and I both worked on and attempted flight with the same VK Camel which has similar CG, short coupling , pitch sensitivity and high drag characteristics. My version was .65 glow power which crashed during maiden attempt. His was .60 equivalent electric powered which crashed during it's re-maiden attempt. His .60 outrunner power seemed to be plenty. Getting the CG correct, maybe a little nose heavy, is crucial as is proper wing incidences and alignment. Proper coordination of rudder and ailerons and proper airspeed in turns, takeoffs and landings to prevent stalls are also crucial. Avoid excessive elevator throws. These make into large heavy draggy scale-like models. You might want to reduce stuctural weight in the rear fuselage and elsewhere with electric power to avoid need for excessive nose ballast. Read whatever recommendations are available from Proctor and other modelers who have "been there and done that". Might be good to buy a smaller foamy ARF version and learn to fly it well before flying the VK version.
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Old Nov 09, 2014, 11:30 AM
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Thanks for the info. I have been reading about the flight characteristics of the model.
Did you feel the .65 glow engine had enough power. I was leaning towards maybe a .90. That might me overkill.
I have also read the thread from Phillip57 on the electric conversion he had done in the past.http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1275741
One of my major questions about these larger scale planes tends to be about accuracy in the model itself. As in, do the structures need to be "dead on" accurate or is there a little tolerance to the model?
I will attempt to build it "dead on" but we are talking about perfection in an imperfect world. More pics
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Old Nov 09, 2014, 12:46 PM
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More Pics

Here are some more pictures of the build. I had started this a couple of weeks ago and I just got around to posting the build. I will try to describe the photos as I go.
This is the first side of the fuselage. Not much to note. Pretty straight forward.
As a side note, I found this website which had some good pictures of a similar build. http://www.sandercott.ca/aircraft/cf-als_4/index.htmlI had contacted the builder and he was nice enough to send me a copy of the build manual. Thanks Alan.
My kit only had two pages describing some major steps. I used Alan's manual to make a list of the needed parts. It was a learning experience as I did not know what the real names of the parts were. I found this challenging but worth it. Again, It is about the build of the kit.
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Old Nov 09, 2014, 12:52 PM
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Right side of Fuselage

Here are the pics of the right side. I place a sheet of wax paper between the fuselage doubler in order to get each side as close as possible to be the same. It seemed to work well for me. I place the landing gear box on the fuselage and held it square with two building squares.
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Old Nov 09, 2014, 02:25 PM
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I looked at the VK line before purchasing the Proctor N11. Looking forward to your build. I'm going electric on my build, what options are you looking at? Kevin
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Old Nov 09, 2014, 03:00 PM
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Not sure right now. I have heard good things about electric but I am leaning towards a .90 glow.
I don't have any experience with either. The glow will weigh down the front more than the electric but then there is the vibrations. I think the CG will be the hardest decision to make and will affect which way I will go.
Here are more pics of the fuselage coming together. I found it difficult to make the connection at the rear and keep the fuselage symmetrical.
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Old Nov 09, 2014, 05:23 PM
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With that much power you would be likely to torque roll on take-off. It is way over-kill.

I have a VK Nieuport, same scale, original used essentially the same motor (110 hp rotary). I flew my model with a PAW 40 diesel. I'm now switching it over to an ancient Enya 45 glow engine, with a 13 inch prop, which it turns at about 8600 rpm, meaning it will be putting out way below maximum power. The diesel had a 13x6 turning at 7400 rpm, which was also below it's max. The plane weighs 5 lbs 6 oz ready to fly. All servos are right behind the firewall and the rx battery is in a box under the cowl, in front of the firewall. No extra nose weight was needed. It is a beautiful flyer that way.

I am taking a break from building my VK Fokker Dr. 1, but I already have another old Enya 45 which I will also over-prop and use with that plane.

Keeping all equipment as far forward as possible, and keeping the tail as light as possible, is the way to go.

Your fuselage frame looks very nice. Good luck with your build.

Jim
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Old Nov 09, 2014, 05:43 PM
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I used to fly one of these with an OS48 four stroke. It was plenty of power. The VK kit actually has the firewall forward that which is scale. As buzzard bait states... keep equipment forward as much as possible. The tail feathers build very lightweight. You might consider covering them with silk or silkspan.

I could not for the life of me get this airplane to take off on asphalt! Landing on asphalt always resulted in a ground loop at the end of the rollout. It does just fine in grass and pointed into the wind. I am a total Drl freak! I have two 1/5 scale ones almost ready for flight!!!!
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Old Nov 09, 2014, 05:43 PM
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By over-prop, does that mean the prop is larger than the recommended size? The plans call for a 14x7. Now I am a thinking about a .61. Should I change the prop also or keep the 14x7 with a smaller motor.

Thanks, Justin
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Old Nov 09, 2014, 05:47 PM
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Tail dragger.

Here are the pics from the tail skid. It was easier that I thought at first. The tough part was the hinge. I made my own and it could have been better.
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Old Nov 09, 2014, 05:56 PM
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ARUP, let's see some pics.
I have always considered the DR-1 one of my favorites. Reminds me of the WWI Flying Ace in the Peanuts strip.
By the way, I am considering a Sopwith for my next build.

Back to the silkspan. Is there a special method to attaching it to the frame? Is it expensive? I was going to use monokote, but I like the fabric look, keeping in mind the weight.
These are the pics from the Horizontal Stabilizer.
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Old Nov 09, 2014, 05:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kansaskiller View Post
By over-prop, does that mean the prop is larger than the recommended size? The plans call for a 14x7. Now I am a thinking about a .61. Should I change the prop also or keep the 14x7 with a smaller motor.

Thanks, Justin
Add 1" to diameter and reduce pitch. Put your engine of choice on a test stand and check RPMs against the ideal with various props. This is a relatively slow flying airplane and is very 'draggy', i.e., it won't glide well if engine quits! Having an engine propped a little less in pitch allows you to keep idle at a slightly higher value.

I don't have pics of them on this (new) computer but you can find them on RCScalebuilder.com website in the ARF forums. I did a whole lot of work to them there ARFs!
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Old Nov 09, 2014, 06:10 PM
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Middle Wing

For what it's worth, this is my middle wing. Another learning experience.
I put the wing together and when I applied the top sheet, something went astray.
I wet the sheeting thinking it would be easier to shape, which it was. When it dried out it seems to have shrunk a little and I now have the slightest bit of dihedral.
Will this make a difference? I am only talking about maybe 3/32" on each end.
Can this be straightened or am I getting out of line? I don't think it will affect the overall flying stability, but I thought I would throw that out there.
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Old Nov 09, 2014, 09:37 PM
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Lower wings

Currently working on the lower wings. Trying a different approach to building them. I placed the webbing first as a guide and then placed the rest of the pieces.
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