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Old Oct 21, 2013, 11:43 AM
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Fort Worth, TX USA
Joined Feb 2001
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Build Log
Cartoon PT-19

The Cartoon PT-19 Is the first open cockpit I have done so the pilots had to really stand out. I think They will do the job.

Old war birds that were commonly painted with bright colors make fantastic Cartoon planes so the PT-19 had to be done.
The lack of a spinner is a plus for the builder and the open cockpit allows for plenty of cooling air. So I went to work on my next cartoon plane.
At first I was concerned that the big pilot heads would upset the airflow over the fin but it worked out fine. Battery placement was an issue but the Cartoon Turbo Thrush taught me a few lessons in that department so this is easy too.
In keeping with the rest of the cartoon planes the Cartoon PT-19 does not require shaping the foam sheets because of the formed plastic parts.
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Old Oct 21, 2013, 11:45 AM
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Fort Worth, TX USA
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The short kits are on the website now.
Iíll post the video and the inflight shots here when I have them ready.
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Old Oct 21, 2013, 11:47 AM
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Fort Worth, TX USA
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Development

The first one was built as a prototype, thrown together and not painted.
On the first test flight I gave it about half throttle and pushed it into the air over the tall grass . After a few clicks of trim I was experimenting with what it can do. Loops and rolls did well and it slows down as good as the rest of the cartoon planes.
Keep in mind that the first test flight was done without pilots and landing gear. This was an intentional step to see if either would affect how it fly's.
Back in the shop I built the model presented here.
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Old Oct 21, 2013, 11:51 AM
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Fort Worth, TX USA
Joined Feb 2001
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Equipment

What you will get is the Plans and plastic parts listed on the site.
The plans would better be described as a pattern page since you don't actually build it over printed paper.
The plastic parts are what makes this model go together so fast, there is no foam forming required.

The materials you will need is
One sheet of 3mm foam and less than 1/8 sheet of 6mm
Gorilla glue ( polyurethane glue)

I know a bunch of you scorn Hobby King but the total cost of the complete electronics set for this Cartoon Plane was $35 plus shipping.

[B]The motor [/B]I used is what is on all the cartoon planes is a 1800 KVA out runner ( $6.32 )
Basically any small motor that can flip a 7 to 8 inch prop will work fine.



Electronic speed control (ESC) is an 18 to 20 amp but all that is required is 10 amps.
I tend to over kill on this component just a bit as a cushion and at $6.77 why not?


[B]Servos,[/B] A 3 gram servo or equivalent is all you need to move the tail feathers. I think we called them blue birds at one time. the one I use is $3.49 each.


URL="http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=11318"]Propellers[/URL] . . . 5 for $2.24 what can I say ; and they are the flexible ones too.
Iíve broken so many GWS props I could make a traffic cone with the plastic.
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Old Oct 21, 2013, 01:59 PM
flyin' fool
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Vancouver Island, Canada
Joined Jul 2003
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Wonderful model...........
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Old Oct 23, 2013, 11:58 AM
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Fort Worth, TX USA
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Thank you , it makes me laugh every time the boys do a fly by.
I did forget the link to the receiver I use.
I was a little skeptical about how effective this little receiver would be at $9.99 each. It looks like the connections make up the lionís share of its weight. So small but I havenít had a problem with any of them yet.
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Old Oct 24, 2013, 07:55 AM
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Fort Worth, TX USA
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Before I start this construction thread you need to know that if you build the Cartoon L-19 you have built the whole war bird series. I have designed them so the instructions are very close to being the same with only a few slight differences between them making the thread necessary. Any questions along the way or after just ask.
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Old Oct 24, 2013, 08:01 AM
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Fort Worth, TX USA
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Construction

Cut the patterns from the pattern sheet and use spray adhesive to bond the patterns to poster board or card stock , About the thickness of large mail envelopes is about right.
Carefully cut the patterns out using scissors for the curved edges and a straight edge and hobby knife for the straight cuts. These straight cuts should be made on a smooth hard surface since you have to push down fairly hard; too hard for a craft cutting board.
If you don't have a cutting board get one, when you cut sheet foam it saves blades and keeps them from getting dull.
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Old Oct 24, 2013, 10:44 AM
Home of "Golf Cart Flying"
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Griffin GA
Joined Aug 2008
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Your killin me! I want them all....

The PT-19 wing must be almost identical to the P-40
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Last edited by pecanpatch; Oct 24, 2013 at 10:49 AM.
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Old Oct 24, 2013, 07:51 PM
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Fort Worth, TX USA
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Busted
It is the P-40 wing plan form but the chord is just a bit wider at the root.
Good eye!
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Old Oct 24, 2013, 09:03 PM
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United States, OH, Westlake
Joined Mar 2002
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"It's a PT-19 Beavis"
"Heheh he said 'P'"


Have to say that you chose the perfect pilots.
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Old Oct 30, 2013, 03:52 PM
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Fort Worth, TX USA
Joined Feb 2001
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The Wing

We will need the wing right away when the fuselage is being built so let's start there.
The visual progress will really get you enthused with the project any way .

This wing construction method uses no ribs, as a weight saving measure the wing has several tapered spars that give it strength and the airfoil shape we need.
The wing is constructed from the bottom sheeting up by using the pattern from the plans to lay out a 3mm sheet.

The spar locations at the root are transferred to the bottom sheeting from the plans the easy way is to fold the pattern at the root and make the marks of course a ruler works too. At the wing tip, marks are transferred from the tip pattern. lines can be drawn from mark to mark with a straight edge.
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Old Oct 30, 2013, 03:54 PM
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Fort Worth, TX USA
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Note. when cutting the spars It is best to stack two sheets of 6mm while cutting the spars so each spar is identical.

The leading edge and wing tip is bonded first with polyurethane glue.
Note the use of the spar ( wider foam piece) is being used as a shim so the weight will push straight down on this narrow strip.

From there the remainder of the spars are bonded with polyurethane glue to the bottom sheeting using weights for clamp pressure.
Before the glue hardens the 6mm gear plates should be installed
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Old Oct 30, 2013, 03:55 PM
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Fort Worth, TX USA
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The tops of the spars are square and will require light sanding to give them a curve so the top sheeting will not have humps on the surface.
Using a sanding bar wide enough to bridge between the spars will help to ensure the angles blend between them.

Before you start sanding, mark the spars with a highlighter pen.
This will help you keep track of your progress. The leading edge strip should taper to about 3 mm and the tip piece should taper to match it.
The trailing edge should have a slight taper as well to keep the trailing edge thin.
Once you are finished sanding; place a strip of foam across the spars and check for gaps.
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Old Nov 04, 2013, 11:52 AM
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Fort Worth, TX USA
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In order to get the slight curve to the bottom of the wing a relief cut is made from the first spar to the leading edge at the wing root. The wide end of the leading edge shim is placed under the leading edge root of the wing panels during the top sheeting bonding step to raise it higher making the curve needed.
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