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Old Sep 28, 2012, 06:13 PM
Bob W
Rock Hill, SC
Joined Jul 2003
925 Posts
Love it..good one Seid!
Bob
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Old Sep 30, 2012, 09:12 AM
Bob W
Rock Hill, SC
Joined Jul 2003
925 Posts
I found a few of assembly picts from earlier this year, mostly wing servo stuff but it has the dims I used. Locations worked out good for my top drive install using hyperion 09s. Linkages are nice n tight! I used a piece of aluminum filler wire to push out foam for the wire channel. Budman gave it his approval says it's ready to rock n roll.
Bob
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Old Sep 30, 2012, 09:26 AM
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United States, CA, Vista
Joined Jan 2008
592 Posts
( lets see if he secretly trolls this thread with his secret polaris envy..)

Well, maybe just the slightest envy, but only for the pink ones.
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Old Oct 01, 2012, 06:14 PM
Throw it like you hate it
RCPC's Avatar
United States, CA, Castro Valley
Joined Apr 2007
3,086 Posts
pull-line setup

someone was asking about how to install the pull-line in a Polaris in another thread so i decided i would post the method i use here in a dedicated thread.

for the control horn side, i tie a knot big enough to slip around the control horn. dont use a split knot here since you dont want this knot cinching down on the control horn. to this knot, i tie another small capture-line so that when i remove the elevator, the pull-line does not fall into the fuse. if it does, just pull on the capture-line to get access to the pull-line knot. the end of the capture-line is tack-glued to the stab pylon so it is super easy to mount the elevator control horn to the pull-line again. i got this idea from Mike Stern who showed me this solution at the last IHLGF. i liked it so much that i added this feature to all my Polaris pull-lines. thanks, Mike! i used to just tape the pull-line to the outside of the fuse during transport. i think Bruce uses a small wire-tie to hold the knot during transport. these are great solutions but if the knot slips from your hands during assembly, it may take a while to fish it back out of the fuse if it falls inside.

i fix the other end of the line to servo horn with a small length of brass tubing that i collapse/crimp over the line once i get the proper length of line.

some of the pull-lines are slippery so it is important to wet them in thin and then medium CA so that the knots and crimps dont slip. after i tie the knots or make the crimp, i wet them thoroughly. i have yet to have a knot or crimp let go.

the method for mounting or removing the elevator is this: turn on the radio and give full down deflection to the elevator. turn off the radio and then unscrew the stab bolts and slip the horn off the knot. when you want to mount the stab again, pull the capture-line that is tied to the tail knot and slip the horn through it. bolt down the stab and go fly! its that easy. hope this helps.
paul
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Old Oct 01, 2012, 06:39 PM
Time for me to Fly...
Mr. Wiz's Avatar
United States, MI, Fenton
Joined Jan 2000
8,676 Posts
Well, Paul.... Aside from the string for holding the loop that looks exactly like my idea. I also didn't plan on using any CA at the crimp but that's probably a good idea.

Thanks,

Mike
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 10:23 AM
Time for me to Fly...
Mr. Wiz's Avatar
United States, MI, Fenton
Joined Jan 2000
8,676 Posts
OK, so I finally got the pull string thing sorted out and I'm happy with it. I used a Larks head on the elevator end and a Dubro Pull/Pull crimping sleeve on the servo end.... with a drip of CA for good measure. The string is 50lb spider wire that I pre stretched with a 10 pound weight for over 24 hours. I think it should hold up well.

So after all that fiddling and bad weather I did manage to slip out for some initial trim tosses last evening just before dark.... when there was no wind. After the 4 or 5 over head hand tosses I gave it a few 50% discus launches. It's definitely an adjustment to fly rudderless, especially when you're flying low and slow. I found myself wondering why the plane wasn't turning and then realized... not that stick, stupid. It has no rudder. Anyway, it feels like a real honey in the air. In fact, it feels very light footed out there. Later today, I'm going to get a chance to fly it again and I'm fairly confident I'll get to wring it out a bit and get a really good feel for it. I'm looking forward to that.
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 07:37 PM
Time for me to Fly...
Mr. Wiz's Avatar
United States, MI, Fenton
Joined Jan 2000
8,676 Posts
I got to give the Polaris a decent workout today. It's wonderful. It launches nice and high, it runs quite well and it floats like a butterfly. I love how easy it was for me to adapt to the way it flies. I took to it right away. I'm still finding myself leaning on the rudder stick... I guess old habits like that are going to be hard to break. I just couldn't get over how easy it was to fly without stalling it and how tightly I could turn it at low speed without a rudder. The stall characteristics are just so gentle it's amazing. If you do manage to stall it, it recovers instantly. No need to gain a bunch of speed to get it flying again. It indicates lift really well... It feels like it weighs half as much as anything I've ever flown. I'm sold. Sometime in this off season I'm going to buy myself a brand new one to go along with this one.

One thing I'm looking forward to doing is balasting it up and flying it in some wind. It was pretty calm today, not dead but most of the lift was light. There were a couple of boomers out there today too but I didn't get tossed around too much. One other thing I noticed is that in dead air it seemed to stay aloft longer than anything I've flown.

I have one more contest coming up at the end of the month. I plan on flying the Polaris for that one. I'm hoping my results will back up my initial observations.

Cheers,
Mike
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Last edited by Mr. Wiz; Oct 12, 2012 at 08:37 PM.
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 11:14 PM
Throw it like you hate it
RCPC's Avatar
United States, CA, Castro Valley
Joined Apr 2007
3,086 Posts
Mike,
i am really happy to hear that you like. you touched upon one of my favorite aspects of the plane: its handling. i flies very well and doesnt bite the pilot, which is good for me because i spend a lot of time looking at other planes and want a plane to fly itself without me having to constantly monitor its behavior.

one tip regarding the rudder: mix some aileron into the rudder stick. the first time i flew my Polaris, i thought i was locked-out because i was giving it rudder and nothing happened. i now mix about 20% of full aileron deflection into full rudder stick deflection because i still use the rudder stick through habit. having only 20% aileron deflection in the rudder stick is like having dual rates. in very calm conditions when i want minimal control surface deflection, i use the rudder stick nearly exclusively. this ensures i dont over-control the plane in these calm conditions. i dont use it in a thermal but really just to slightly adjust course as i am moving about. i will use it when covering long distances as well to keep my heading.

i am glad you are liking the plane. it does three things (among many others) very well: launches high, handles extraordinarily well, and doesnt come down the three things i need in a plane.
paul
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 11:20 PM
Team Hong Kong F3K
ThomasLee's Avatar
Hong Kong
Joined Sep 2010
3,263 Posts
Really cool, every time I read about this plane it's all positive stuff. Maybe I should get off my a$$ and get one myself soon...

Thomas
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 04:58 AM
Registered User
Joined Nov 2006
28 Posts
Placement of throwing peg

Hi all,

Yesterday I glued in the throwing peg into a lightweight wing (the one with the Vladimir carbon) according to the instructions from Jonas found here:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=699
(The end of the peg shall be 30mm from TE.
The end of the peg shall be 12mm in from tip at that point
The front of the peg shall be 10-11 in from the tip.)

I now have a few doubts if I haven't glued the peg in too close to the tip. The peg is only ca 11mm away from the tip. This is much closer to the tip than any other DLG I own and also much closer than any picture of a polaris I saw. Have I made a mistake?

Thanks,
Andreas
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 11:52 AM
Registered User
Sweden
Joined Sep 2005
302 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by aleitner View Post
(The end of the peg shall be 30mm from TE.
The end of the peg shall be 12mm in from tip at that point
The front of the peg shall be 10-11 in from the tip.)

Have I made a mistake?

Thanks,
Andreas
The hard-point is located for this position why you should be allright.
It's not everyone that follows recommendations :-)

/Mattias
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 12:02 PM
Chuck 'Em and Chase 'Em
Fly2High's Avatar
United States, NY, Plainview
Joined Aug 2005
8,120 Posts
does the Polaris have the option of a kevlar hinge done at moldtime or is it always an afterthough done by the builder?
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 12:11 PM
Registered User
Joined Nov 2006
28 Posts
Mattias, thanks your answer is very re-affirming. I checked with a lamp to locate the hardpoint and also saw it in that area (I think . I was just unsure because that peg is sooo close to the tip now.

Now that I know I did it as suggest I have less hesitation to give it a good toss (:

Thanks,
Andreas
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 12:42 PM
Throw it like you hate it
RCPC's Avatar
United States, CA, Castro Valley
Joined Apr 2007
3,086 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fly2High View Post
does the Polaris have the option of a kevlar hinge done at moldtime or is it always an afterthough done by the builder?
yes, you can order the vertical with a kevlar hinge that is in the layup. you cut the hinge yourself.
paul
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Old Nov 07, 2012, 11:51 AM
Team ATX Pilot
dbone's Avatar
Phx. Az.
Joined Nov 2004
1,311 Posts
Polaris takes first in both prelim and fly off at BSOAZ! Great job Paul...
This was a four contest series the Polaris also won three of the four contests. Can't say enough about it's performance. Great job MMT.

BSOC 1st place "Donnie Langdon" Polaris
BSONM 1st place "Charlie Morris" Concept
BSOUT 1st place "Donnie Langdon" Polaris
BSOAZ 1st place "Paul C." Polaris
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