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Latest blog entry: Weak Signals Toledo 2012
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Yea, I have too which is why I didn't think anything of trying a WOT blender on the Sihoutte. Live and learn I guess. Since I learned the hard way, I just thought I'd pass what I learned on so others wouldn't have the same problem. I also have a pluma and would watch the violent manuevers with that plane also. Carlo |
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Latest blog entry: Weak Signals Toledo 2012
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Looks like the E-Flite Park 400 920kv is the winner
Just a quick bench test with a 11X7 APC prop shows 675 grams of thrust at 14.5 amps at 166 watts. That prop is a tad hot for this application. Upping the motor weight by 10 grams but adding 40-50 watts will still be in the range of 150 watts per pound for 3D. I had this motor on my Gentle Lady 2Meter Glider with AUW of 27 ounces with a 10X7 folder and it was too much, the silly thing would go vertical and do loops without issue. I am going to put the 740Kv on it so it is not sooo intense. Type: Brushless Size: Replacement for 370/400 Bearings or Bushings: Bearings Recommended Prop Range: 9x7 to 11x4.7 Voltage: 7.2–12 RPM/Volt (Kv): 920 (rpms per volt) Resistance (Ri): .10 ohms Idle Current (Io): .70 @10V (no load current) Shaft Diameter: 1/8 in (3.17mm) Overall Length: 1.15 in (29mm) Weight: 56 g (2.0 oz) Overall Diameter: 1.10 in (28mm) Diameter: 1.1 in (28mm) Continuous Current: 10A Maximum Burst Current: 13A Cells: 6–10 Ni-Cd/Ni-MH or 2–3 Li-Po Speed Control: 10–20 amp brushless |
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Latest blog entry: Weak Signals Toledo 2012
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I have a few choices, a 15 amp Scorpion, a 18 amp Turnigy Plush, or a 22 amp E-Flight. A few grams extra but worth keeping the magic smoke in place.
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Latest blog entry: Weak Signals Toledo 2012
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430g or 15.16 ounces. On the first flight I had the lipo too far forward and was a tad nose heavy but other then that, it flys very well. I was much more comfortable with the power to weight, a bit over half throttle for the hover, plenty of power to climb out and just smooth. Since it was nose heavy I trimmed in a bit of up, this made it want to fall towards its back a little in the hover but was nothing to keep in place. Very stable flight. I lost my Hatch for the first time today so the hatch mod is a msut now. I only got one flight, when I pull the lipo from the velcro, the velcro came off the wing. This Pro Formance foam has a almost oily surface, the velcro I use is so sticky it wont come off most surfaces. I will have to add a bit of UHU to the velcro when I do the canopy mod. Ron |
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Latest blog entry: Weak Signals Toledo 2012
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Pleased to hear you had a good flight. Hatch mod is a must and I am pleased that I did it on mine as the hatch stays on and the access to electronics is how it should be.
I am going to fly with the Rhino 750's this week, once I have put Deans on them. What flight time did you get yesterday? I flew only once this week, and had the same issue with the motor mount, but I hope I have that taken care of now, with some careful repair and strengthening. Will try again this week, and I have given up on the wheel spats, added small collars to retain wheels. |
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![]() I flew around 6 minutes, still had plenty of power to hover, I was just worried that if I ran to LVC while nose heavy it might be scarey so I cut the flight short, I would say 10 mintes was well within reach. I don't fly full thottle much, I like the low and slow stuff. I was going to check the Lipo volts but when the velcro came off I figured it was done for a bit. What motor and prop do you have on that one? Seems like it wants to escape
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Latest blog entry: Weak Signals Toledo 2012
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I fly with a motor with very near your motor specs, Turnigy TR28-30B, I have a watt meter now so I'll see what is pulls static on Monday, but I'm guessing around 150W at around 15A.
Model: TR2830-1050 Max Eff: 12A Max Load: 14A Kv: 1050 Weight: 57.9gr Pull: 400~900gr Prop: 10x5 or 10x6 Voltage: 6~10v No Load Curr: .9A Size : 30mm I was using a 11x3.8 APC SF prop, I bought a slightly lighter (and cheaper ) from Hobby City, which are not quite as brittle as the APC. Next order I will try a GWS, but I always feel more comfortable with a fairly rigid prop. They just seem to 'bite the air' better when punching out from down low. I am also quite aggressive in flight. I like to go vertical and do spins and blenders, and that draws quite a lot of amps. I think the motor and prop 'escaped' because the repair from previous escape was not good enough. It is as good as I can get now without adding bracing etc. which I want to avoid. The only thing that holds the motor in is the Depron slots and the glue to between the depron and the mounts, but we will see next week. If it breaks again, I will brace it. I could brace it now with some 3mm foam from Hobby Lobby. But I may also buy another kit and outfit with an ultralite setup. I like the slightly heavier plane, as I can fly in 10-15mph breeze, and I don't fly indoors. I really like the way this plane fly's. |
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We had a GREAT weather day today, calm, warm and sunny.I forgot to time my 3S750 flight, but I did have one of the club guys time my last flight with a Rhino 3S610 and with aggressing climbs, torque rolls, hovers and everything I could toss at it, just shy of 6 minutes. The little 610s don't last long in my i3D biplane either, about the same. As I am slowly getting the CG back to its happy place, this thing flys very nice! It is very well behaved. I may look into the motor you have, my old Park 400 920 has gutz, no problem, but I got it used and it has some wear on it, makes a little noise so I know it is not as efficent as it could be but it sure tosses and twists this plane around. ![]() Since I have not done the canopy mod, small 1/2 inch strip of blenderm tape at the back an it was all good. |
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Latest blog entry: Weak Signals Toledo 2012
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