|May 03, 2012, 07:54 PM|
On the first page of this B-2 thread.
Just a note , I posted a detailed print of Josh's B-2. Not too many look back throught the posts. Check it out, it might help you with your B-2 project.
It's the way I built mine, there will possibly be many variations to the original build, to each his own, whatever works for you thing.
I'm just about ready to glue the top sheet down on mine, it's starting to look a little more like a B-2.
I'm going to use 30 minute epoxy for the top glue-down on the main spar and ribs, this will give me some working time.
I'll use hot glue and seam tape for the t.e., and work a small section at a time.
My pusher prop came in today so I'm all set for the counter rotating set up now.
My plan is to have it pretty much glued up by this weekend, I want to take it to our club meeting.
|May 04, 2012, 08:10 AM|
Glad to help, Josh..............
Thanks, it was a fun part of the project. I added some thoughts on the l.e.carbon fiber rod placement with the print.
That is why I was having such a of a time trying to lift the l.e. as per your build. Ah well, mine will be a flat bottom wing, so be it.
I'm also anxious to fly this sucka, FOR SURE.....
|May 07, 2012, 08:50 AM|
Thrashin' on my B-2
Well, thanks to the weather being and the priority list in my favor, I've been able to get some things done on my B-2 project.
Well, it came down to "do it or get off the pot" time, it's ready to glue the top sheet down.(, I hope we didn't forget anything)
I needed a third hand so I hot glued two 1/4" pieces of plywood to a heavy duty spring clamp. The pieces were just as long as the glue stitch area I was going to do along the t.e. It saved my , it made it so much easier, it was glue, clamp, wait a sec, and do it again.
I used 30 min. epoxy and coated the top of the main spar and the ribs with that. I had the hot glue gun ready and after I pulled the top skin down tight I hot glued the t.e.'s along the spacers at each motor.
I had plenty of weights to keep things down flat until the epoxy set up too.
I did have to take my razor saw and cut the t.e. glue joint at the left tip, for some reason I got a little twist in the tip, this was eliminated easily, but I said when I seen it.
I took the B-2 to our monthly club meeting last night, it was a big hit, a lot of interest.
Not too much left to do on it before I head to the "breifing room" for flight instructions and get the "maiden" on it.
The way it sets right now it weighs in at 27 oz. , no batteries, paint, or trim details, and the elevons and control rods.
Thanks Josh for a fun project and the build pics and tips you've posted.
Thanks Pecan for your help and tips also.
I can't wait to fly this sucka..................
Sorry, I tried my darndest to get me to stand up straight. I couldn't remove the pic either, so there I am.
|May 11, 2012, 08:20 AM|
Josh, that sure does look great, I love the paint scheme, it fits the plane perfectly.
Mine will be a copy of that as close as I can get it. A few things left yet to do before I start the painting and detailing, but I'm getting there, slow but sure.
|Jun 01, 2012, 11:57 AM|
About the B2….. There could be several out there being built and you just don’t hear about it till they fly them; I’ve seen that many times with the GeoBat.
° I recommend putting a temporary rudder on the B2…….. We did….. Then removed later, but it’s a little intimidating with out it. Approximately 9 square inches should do it.
° I don’t think Josh’s needs very much up reflex on the elevons. Maybe half what the paintball wings use. 1° or 2°
° a light breeze actually helps the launch if the direction of the wind is favorable for your field.
° Put some temporary colored tape trim on either the bottom or top so you can tell the difference in a pinch.
° Fly it when no one else is flying so you can hear what the motors are sounding like, should one begin to slow down; land ASAP!
° Have a friend launch the plane directly into the wind. Be at 75% power… Tell him to watch his dam fingers. Launch at a very slight nose up attitude. As soon as the speed builds try going to full power if nothing crazy happens…. Get to pattern altitude the come back to 5/8 power and trim out the plane.
° set a time for about a 5 minute first flight.
° Have about 45% expo on elevator and aileron (I think Futaba uses negative numbers)
° Keep the plane in as close of a pattern as you can stand to keep your orientation in check.
° Limit Full power runs to about 30 seconds then slow back down.
° Landings are easy but the plane is very clean and a little bit fast so it’s easy to land long. Don’t flare it for all it’s worth…. Slow her down reasonably and then just plant it. You don’t want to get real slow and tip stall it.
° kill power to save props right before landing.
Good luck!! I hope this has been helpful
|Jun 02, 2012, 09:41 AM|
Pecan, thanks for the tips, I'm sure all will benefit from them, I do for sure. We'll get this scary part over with and then get on with some fun painting and detailing.
Now, I have one last project before launch time, I'll make and install the removable rudders.
I think Josh might have some input of how his flies with and without the rudder, we'll base our removal decision on that.
Darn, I'm excited to see this sucka in the air!! I'll be sure to keep it in close, these tired ol' eyes don't see as fast as they used to. My brain doesn't think as far as it used to either.
|Dec 30, 2012, 07:49 AM|
"The best laid plans"..............
Well, there's been a big space in the build of my B-2, it seems like all the good plans were somehow changed, and here we are with it still on the work table.
A maiden flight was tired a couple of weeks ago, but when we got out to the field the wind was just way too much to chance it.
I was hoping for a maiden flight prior to finishing it with the canopy, air scoops and paint details over the winter. That plan was changed......
So, here we are, still not finished and not yet flown, so what to do?
I picked these electric retracts and struts up for a super price, never thought I'd ever use them.
The plywood base and rails are very light weight, and the retract units are very light also, so I won't be adding a lot of weight to the plane.
I started with the mains first, the easiest to do, I'll be doing the nose gear next, and I've got it pretty much figured out already before I begin cutting.
|Dec 30, 2012, 09:23 AM|
Joined Apr 2006
I spent quite a bit of time making exact scale colored diecut coverstock B-2 gliders which were distributed by WhiteWings. The chief pilot-instructor for the B-2 program gave me and had sent, from USAF & Northrup, valuable unclassified information, in return for a pile of 777 gliders I'd made for Boeing and which I was delivering to thr Museum of Flight, nearby to which he'd landed "his" B-2. I had WhiteWings send a lot of my finished B-2's to Whiteman, which they all apparently much enjoyed: one morning at maybe 05:00 PST I got a call from a Major who was not only mistaken about who was supplying their gliders, but my time zone as well. He told me, "The General wants more bombers!". And of course, they always do ....!
Thus, as an aerodynamicist & physicist, I noted and was keen on especially THREE [or 2.5] small but VERY important details which seem to be missing in all the B-2 models I've seen, factory- or scratchbuilt.
They can be carefully discerned in the attached thumbnails (& elsewhere):
1. The very front of the prow-like nose is curved downward and extends outward along the innermost sections of the L.E. [the latter most easily seen head on]. A [maybe at the time, the] TOP Boeing aerodynamicist friend told me that this provides the best performance in Delta/Nuflügel designs, along with
2. The root T.E.section being often downturned as well ["often" = can vary with flight-regime/configuration, so maybe this is only 1/2 point detail?].
Look closely >
|Dec 30, 2012, 09:29 AM|
Joined Apr 2006
For me, besides the General real-life "joke", the coolest or most amusing [I think "thrilling" overstates it] thing was the fact that my planes had a cross-country in a B-2!
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