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Old Mar 28, 2005, 05:58 PM
"SARGE"
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Fairfax Station, (Northern) Virginia
Joined Jun 2003
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Ok enough of that. Time for a modification. The canopy. Folks have complained about it and some say it's the best thing since sliced bread. I prefer that it be attached to the plane and be installed to take the wear and tear of day-to-day flying abuse.

6/26/06 update: If you have nosed in, even gently, and your nose has a curve in it the canopy the clips will not work properly or fail in flight, especially when you are up 1500' fighting an out of control thermal updraft.

Here is what I did. I removed the internal clips and routed out a velcro slot off the back face of the canopy. You have to rout out the canopy because the velcro pieces are too fat and would leave a large gap. I cut the velcro pieces first so I'd get the size I wanted. Then I traced the position where the inletting would be done with a pen. The inlet is about 1/16 to 1/8".

Industrial strength velcro - http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...&postcount=210
Don't leave home without it.
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Old Mar 28, 2005, 06:00 PM
"SARGE"
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Fairfax Station, (Northern) Virginia
Joined Jun 2003
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Here is a pic of the fuse with the clips removed.
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Old Mar 28, 2005, 06:02 PM
"SARGE"
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Fairfax Station, (Northern) Virginia
Joined Jun 2003
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Here you go again. Applying the 3m77 to the fuse and canopy. The 3m77 really makes the velcro and strapping tape stick.
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Old Mar 28, 2005, 06:05 PM
"SARGE"
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Fairfax Station, (Northern) Virginia
Joined Jun 2003
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Take the tape off the velcro patches and mount on the canopy. I put the fuzzy piece of velcro in the inlet and the hooks to the fuse wall. I used a piece too large for the fuse wall initallly. All that is needed is a piece about a third that size. You can see in the pic the size I reduced it to on the canopy. If it's too big then canopy becomes too hard to remove,
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Old Mar 28, 2005, 06:13 PM
"SARGE"
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Fairfax Station, (Northern) Virginia
Joined Jun 2003
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For the front I put on more 3m77 adhesive and cut pieces of 3M criss crossed packing tape to make a hinge. Only smaller pieces are needed about 1/2 to 3/4 ". I double or triple the layer. I do this with my other sailplanes and Bird of Prey. Tape the front, velcro the back of the canopy. Very tough, lightweight, and does not add alot of wind resistance.
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Old Mar 28, 2005, 10:39 PM
better than park-n-work
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California
Joined Jan 2005
564 Posts
Nice modification to the "velcro mod", Sarge.

By the way, when you say "router", what exactly did you do? I see that it's cut down a bit...how did you cut the foam out? I've tried using exacto knives, but they just seem to pluck away at the foam ball by ball.

Any tips? Thanks!
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Old Mar 29, 2005, 07:23 AM
"SARGE"
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Fairfax Station, (Northern) Virginia
Joined Jun 2003
3,150 Posts
park-n-fly,

Good question: It's important to use a "RAZOR" sharp Exacto blade. You can keep it sharp with a fine stone or you can buy one of those 50 packs of blades for a couple bucks. This is an easy rout for an Exacto because it's open on one end. First you cut the three sides then carefully start small cuts point first from the open end.

Another option is using a dremel with a small router bit. This would be the better tool to use if there was not an open side.

Tad
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Old Mar 29, 2005, 08:30 AM
better than park-n-work
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California
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Thanks for the tips, Tad. Enjoy flying...
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Old Apr 03, 2005, 02:27 PM
"SARGE"
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Fairfax Station, (Northern) Virginia
Joined Jun 2003
3,150 Posts
The brushless upgrade

The standard motor is OK, but I enjoy the plane and it can handle the beach so it's time to go brushless. I went with a Mega 16/15/4 and in the end went with an Eflight 40 amp brushless since my old Aveox SL-18 was working intermittantly.

Update: 4/7/06:
Currently I swap in an eFlite20 and eFlite40 esc (thanks to bullet connectors)
Caution: with some of these totally automatic Esc's (eFlites) you have to be careful that you fly with fully charged lipoly packs so the right LVC is computed.

I might reinforce the wings later. The purpose of putting to brushless in there is to get to soaring altitude quicker and increase flight times. I have other planes better suited for ripping holes in the sky.

Here is the brushed motor ready for extraction. I'll use an exacto knife and cut around to motor (I only "gooped" about 1/2 to 3/4 inches in on the lands.
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Old Apr 03, 2005, 02:28 PM
"SARGE"
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Fairfax Station, (Northern) Virginia
Joined Jun 2003
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A few cuts and with the help of pliers the motor comes right out. You can see the three wires already to go.
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Old Apr 03, 2005, 02:30 PM
"SARGE"
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Fairfax Station, (Northern) Virginia
Joined Jun 2003
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Next the old esc is removed, servos disconnected, and the rec moved out of the way.
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Last edited by sargentw; Apr 07, 2005 at 08:50 AM.
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Old Apr 03, 2005, 02:31 PM
"SARGE"
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Fairfax Station, (Northern) Virginia
Joined Jun 2003
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Another look at the engine hole. A clean extraction!
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Last edited by sargentw; Apr 07, 2005 at 08:50 AM.
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Old Apr 03, 2005, 02:33 PM
"SARGE"
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Fairfax Station, (Northern) Virginia
Joined Jun 2003
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Here is a picture soldering in an old beat up Aveox SL-18 speed control. Note the cloth under the work. hot solder will go right through the fuse on the way to china.
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Old Apr 03, 2005, 02:35 PM
"SARGE"
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Fairfax Station, (Northern) Virginia
Joined Jun 2003
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Another pic of the cockpit.
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Old Apr 03, 2005, 02:39 PM
"SARGE"
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Fairfax Station, (Northern) Virginia
Joined Jun 2003
3,150 Posts
Not to be deterred I ran down to the local Hobby store to get another ESC. I have used Castle Creations in all my other planes. I decided to try this $54.00 Eflight 40 amp esc.

Seems very nice. Bullet connectors for the motor and auto everything (cell count, lipoly). All you have to do is decide if you want prop braking.
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Last edited by sargentw; Apr 07, 2005 at 08:51 AM.
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