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Old Mar 19, 2014, 10:56 AM
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United States, TX, Houston
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Thunder Tiger 40 Pro bearings?

Hey guys,
I'm just beginning pylon. I plan to run C40 and 424. (Q500 plane with a TT40 motor?)
I have heard that the stock bearings should be replaced with better ones.
I get that..
After reading various forum threads I get the feeling that going to ceramic is maybe not needed. I've seen references to choosing bearings with phenolic retainers, or plastic cages.
I have looked at Boca Bearings, and Rc Bearings and I see options but not very good descriptions of the parts that they are selling. I can't tell what type of cages are in the bearings on the websites.
Am I the only one confused by this?
For example, on Rc Bearings, the choices are:
1. 40 Pro Pylon
2. Pro Stainless.
The descriptions in the text are exactly the same.
Jim
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Old Mar 19, 2014, 01:49 PM
Tampa,Fl
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The ceramic ones are ceramic and the stainless ones are stainless. Don't worry about he general description.

On the older TT40's there was a problem with the metal bearing retainer. They have since fixed that. And my experience with All types of bearings. Has been that the stock ones are just as good. Don't waist your money. I did and found No exceptional difference.

If your not sure about the bearing. Simply remove the back plate off the motor and see if the cage is Plastic.
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Old Mar 19, 2014, 02:07 PM
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The trick is on a new one is the break in process. Break a New motor on aTest stand. I use a 8X5 apc prop to break in my motors. Run it rich. DO NOT OVER LEAN YOUR MOTOR.
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Old Mar 19, 2014, 04:24 PM
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United States, TX, Houston
Joined May 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dale 813 View Post
The ceramic ones are ceramic and the stainless ones are stainless. Don't worry about he general description.

On the older TT40's there was a problem with the metal bearing retainer. They have since fixed that. And my experience with All types of bearings. Has been that the stock ones are just as good. Don't waist your money. I did and found No exceptional difference.

If your not sure about the bearing. Simply remove the back plate off the motor and see if the cage is Plastic.
I knew ceramic is ceramic and stainless is stainless! My question was, what is the difference between the other 2.
One just says Pylon and the other one says Stainless.
Neither one of them gives a description about the cage?
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Old Mar 19, 2014, 04:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dale 813 View Post
The trick is on a new one is the break in process. Break a New motor on aTest stand. I use a 8X5 apc prop to break in my motors. Run it rich. DO NOT OVER LEAN YOUR MOTOR.
I started out with a gallon of 15% R.B. and added 8 oz. of castor.
I don't have a stand so I mounted it on my Q500 plane and ran it on the ground.
I started out with a 9x6 cut down to 7x6.
I ran really rich and pinched the fuel line every few seconds to keep changing it's speed but I never peaked it on the ground. I did that for most of a gallon. Then I put on a 9x6 and flew it. Even then I ran as rich as I could.
When I started the second gallon I started working leaner and leaner but never peaked.
Last weekend I went to Georgetown and ran it for the 1st time all out.
(they tuned the needle using a tach). Actually I thought it sounded lean and I richened it a few clicks and raced it that way. I did very well !
I still haven't changed out the head gasket. It's still stock.
I plan on doing it as soon as I can get one.
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Old Mar 19, 2014, 04:55 PM
Tampa,Fl
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United States, FL, Tampa
Joined Jan 2007
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Those two bearings will both work in the TT40. So whatever you want to use. Both have Plastic bearing retainer on one side.

I wouldn't replace the Head shim. I would simply remove it. You'll have more Compression.
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Old Mar 19, 2014, 05:00 PM
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My personal opinion is to stay away from the ceramic bearings. The issue is most of the less expensive "ceramic" bearings are a hybrid with STEEL races and CERAMIC balls. The balls being harder than the races tend to eat away at the races and soon you have a very noisy bearing.

I've used two ceramic bearings in a YS 53 fourstroke. Each was noisey in less than 1/2 gallon of fuel. You could start to tell something was amiss at just over a quart of fuel. I'm going back to all steel bearings.

DO look for the plastic cage though. IMO that is a must.

Ken
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Old Mar 19, 2014, 08:08 PM
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I have to agree with Ken. The last Ceramic/Hybrid bearing I got made some noise after a few Runs. I bought those bearings when I started Racing thinking it would help me get more RPMs but realized that the stock ones or the SS ones are the best. Break in process and Awesome Thumbs get you in the Winners circle.

One great tip on the TT40 is the Stock Muffler Bolt. You need to replace it. Drill to fit. A 6/32 Rod through the muffler. And use jam nuts on each end. Might not look pretty on the front but it's better than getting a 0 in a heat because the stock one broke on you. It's happened to many and happened to me.
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Old Mar 20, 2014, 09:56 AM
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thanks guys. That's the info I was looking for.
I haven't fixed my muffler yet but everybody has been getting on me to do it!
Will be done before my next race.
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Old Mar 20, 2014, 10:22 AM
The bearing guy
Joined Mar 2013
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Muffler bolt

Find a pool pump repair place and ask for some of the old pump motor through bolts. Many of them will be #6 size hardened steel with a hex head. These are designed to be under tension and heat. I have used these for years with never one breaking. Take your muffler with you to get the right length.

Regarding the plastic retainer, most guys in the pylon world around Phoenix, AZ have reported 200-300 more RPMS just by changing from the stock bearings. While the stock bearings are good, there is a significant drag penalty with the ribbon steel retainer vs plastic.
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Old Mar 20, 2014, 03:36 PM
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Powder Springs, GA
Joined Oct 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCBearings View Post
Regarding the plastic retainer, most guys in the pylon world around Phoenix, AZ have reported 200-300 more RPMS just by changing from the stock bearings. While the stock bearings are good, there is a significant drag penalty with the ribbon steel retainer vs plastic.
The 2-300 rpm will only be a factor if everyone has good thumbs. Starting out just run it and learn the course. Fly smooth, fast will come with time. and get as much stick time and practice you can stand.
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Old Mar 20, 2014, 04:15 PM
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My best ever TTpro40 had the stock bearings in it - right up until the rear one came apart. It was the original style with the metal cage.

Since then I've used RCBearings stainless ones for the most part, seem to work just fine. None of them have ever come apart and ruined an engine.
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Last edited by fizzwater2; Mar 21, 2014 at 11:51 AM.
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Old Mar 21, 2014, 06:34 AM
Tampa,Fl
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I agree with Fizz. The Bearings that are in the a Motor that I'll be a Racing Today are Stock. I'll come back later and let ya know where I finished.
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Old Mar 22, 2014, 07:15 PM
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Ok. So I said I would get back to everyone on the Race results. I think I'm Running a Stock Bearing but I want to say that if I need to buy Bearings. I buy from RCBearings.com.

I won 1st Place Along with Fast Time in Standard 424 Racing Class. One of the Guys I was calling for Won 1st Place Expert Class. My Buddy Scott Smith. The other guy I was calling for Won 3rd. Steve Shueler and thanks to my Caller Scott Smith
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Old Apr 01, 2014, 09:48 PM
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I got my second motor today. Had issues with teardown and clean up but it's back together now.
While the shaft was out I got a good look at the rear bearing. It "looks" like it has a plastic cage. DO the newer ones come that way?
The motor was pretty clean inside.
My 1st motor ended up with a big scratch in the cylinder. I believe it's because I DIDN"T tear it all the way down and clean it before I ran it.
Lesson learned.
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