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Old Jul 13, 2013, 01:49 PM
Splat
United States, FL, Palm Harbor
Joined Jul 2007
397 Posts
With the formula in my post I etch two sided copper in about five minutes
I have not needed to heat it at all. My tank is very narrow and sits with the board vertical.
I use a piece of aquarium tube with holes drilled to aerate the solution.
The largest board that I etch is 3 x 4 inches two sided .
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Old Jul 13, 2013, 01:55 PM
Registered User
United Kingdom, Bristol
Joined Aug 2008
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That just do a copper pour not linking to gnd, really just to save etch. You need bubble's and constant warmth.
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Old Jul 13, 2013, 03:43 PM
Splat
United States, FL, Palm Harbor
Joined Jul 2007
397 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by djdavies83 View Post
For for being a little OT here guys,

Hey PLC I have about 50 of these to etch soon....Attachment 5947442

Each board is 107*37mm what tank dimensions would you recommend, how many boards in the tank per batch etc? Could I see a pic of your tank please?

:-D
Here is a couple photos on my "tank"
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Old Jul 13, 2013, 07:58 PM
We can rebuild it!
djdavies83's Avatar
United Kingdom, Wales, Swansea
Joined Apr 2010
3,489 Posts
That's great that's for the help (and photos PLC) everyone, las question (I think) then I'll stop bugging you all about etching, whats the best way to make sure top and bottom are lined up before etching?
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Old Jul 13, 2013, 08:33 PM
Splat
United States, FL, Palm Harbor
Joined Jul 2007
397 Posts
Are you using photo resist boards or toner transfer method . With photo resist boards you have two films that you can place on a sheet of clear glass or plastic, then line up the images, Tape the films together so that you can replace the clear sheet with the photo sensitive board. Expose to uv light and develop the board. When the image on the board has cured , drop it in the etchant tank. and watch the process to stop the etch as soon as the excess copper is gone.
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Old Jul 13, 2013, 09:08 PM
We can rebuild it!
djdavies83's Avatar
United Kingdom, Wales, Swansea
Joined Apr 2010
3,489 Posts
Toner transfer, once printed I fed the transfer paper and the single copper clad and transfer through a laminator.

I've thought of a couple of ways but not sure what's best...

1. Off the board (outside the tracks and board etch perimeter but still over raw material) place two crosses, put a tiny hole through the centres, place first sheet and roll holes in the raw board, use a pin through each hole, locate 2nd sheet, tape edges, remove pins an pass though laminator.

2. Cut raw board to exact size of etch board, cut transfers to exact size, locate by placing edge to edge, place a tiny piece of tape on all 4 edges and pass through laminator.

3. based on your exposure method, cut one side and bottom edge of both sheets and locate together, tape together on unused area of sheet, insert raw board between sheets and pass through laminator.

What would you think is best with transfer paper?
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Old Jul 13, 2013, 09:30 PM
Splat
United States, FL, Palm Harbor
Joined Jul 2007
397 Posts
I can't help you with that question, the only toner transfer I do is with a clothes iron, no laminator. Typical toner transfer paper I have seen is not transparent so you would need a light box and a clear sheet the thickness of the pcb to try and line up the images
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Old Jul 15, 2013, 10:18 AM
RC beginner
New York
Joined Oct 2008
5,620 Posts
ok, im back home (however brain still on left coast time) and going to give this another try. the solder paste problem is only important with mlf. m328 and passives no problemo. ive pretty much run out of 6050 chips so ordered another batch. meanwhile lots of recycling going on.

i can say the trickiest part so far has been trying to remove covering from the dry film and getting it layed down w/o bubbles and wrinkles.
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Old Jul 15, 2013, 10:41 AM
RC beginner
New York
Joined Oct 2008
5,620 Posts
hey, blackmoon,

just got the 4 boards you sent. thanks. you never mentioned how THIN these were. they are THIN and LIGHT. certainly rivals commercial units in price and weight. i can see many other projects where this board would be useful. both rf and any other that needs tiny or mega. even just as an soic/qfp breakout. great design ss.

id really like to get a bw bmp or gif of the top and bottom so i could give diy pcb a try.
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Old Jul 15, 2013, 10:52 AM
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United Kingdom, Bristol
Joined Aug 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dave1993 View Post
hey, blackmoon,

just got the 4 boards you sent. thanks. you never mentioned how THIN these were. they are THIN and LIGHT. certainly rivals commercial units in price and weight. i can see many other projects where this board would be useful. both rf and any other that needs tiny or mega. even just as an soic/qfp breakout. great design ss.

id really like to get a bw bmp or gif of the top and bottom so i could give diy pcb a try.
Thanks but could be better. If there's need I'll update it. Best thing i like about pcb is where you mount RF modules. If you solder them with a spacer between them removing them is a pice of cake and being able to stack them was unexpected bonus.

Print them to pdf more control of size. My design would need minor changes to make it good for DIY etching.

And other thing i couldn't do with it i didn't find out till Friday, not important and was never meant do it anyways.
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Old Jul 15, 2013, 11:11 AM
RC beginner
New York
Joined Oct 2008
5,620 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by SadSack View Post
Print them to pdf more control of size.
i find bmp much easier to size and edit. and not a lossy format like jpg etc.. pdf not handled by windows unlike bmp which is. i HATE adobe almost as much as facetube. its those dam eulas and the bit where they take money out of your pocket w/o permission.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SadSack View Post
My design would need minor changes to make it good for DIY etching.

And other thing i couldn't do with it i didn't find out till Friday, not important and was never meant do it anyways.
what changes? what dont it do?
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Old Jul 15, 2013, 11:25 AM
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United Kingdom, Bristol
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i forgot to add optional crystal. Change pins/spacing and other tiny things.
What i couldn't do....
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Old Jul 15, 2013, 11:30 AM
Registered User
United Kingdom, Bristol
Joined Aug 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dave1993 View Post
i find bmp much easier to size and edit. and not a lossy format like jpg etc.. pdf not handled by windows unlike bmp which is. i HATE adobe almost as much as facetube. ?
bmp=lossy whatever way you use it. All that's important to you is you understand it, simple.
eagle>pdf 100% zoom in/out same all the way. Editing if i want to add something I use Corel draw Photoshop good but vector art work not so much.
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Old Jul 15, 2013, 12:14 PM
RC beginner
New York
Joined Oct 2008
5,620 Posts
im having trouble printing ANYTHING atm. eagle still misbehaving and inkjet lost 3 colors sitting for 2 weeks. it would be a huge favor if anybody who is set up could post bw top and bottom for gils board. in ANY viewable format.
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Old Jul 15, 2013, 12:43 PM
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Joined Apr 2012
2,896 Posts
Dave...any viewable form?.......do you see it in eagle.. only printing problem ?If so, use screen snapshot...any program for take desktop screen snapshot.
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