Espritmodel.com Telemetry Radio
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Old Feb 24, 2012, 05:30 PM
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Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
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Originally Posted by TrainSurgeon View Post
I appear to have the package on the left, but with one detail that's different.
The 2 cables I have are equally thick. When i used a scalpel to carefully slice them open a little I noticed I have 2 of what is in the picture called a USB cable! 1 is a little shorter than the other, so maybe that's where the confusion came from, since I tried both.

I will try to replicate the 'special' cable by following your schematic and picture linked to in the FAQ , leaving only the +5V and Earth wires. I think that will solve my problem.

Thank you for the quick and helpful service by the way! Especially since this is a foreign product troubleshooting can be a bit hard, but this site is very enlightening. Thanks for helping a fellow hobbyist out!
Well we got to the bottom of the problem, but I fear the solution is not going to be as easy as you suggested. The +5V is on the wrong pin in that mini-USB plug, and moving it to the proper pin #4 (a.k.a. pin "X") in the sketches is not possible with it all molded together. You'll either need to get a new miniplug and have some micro soldering skills, or email your camera vendor and have them send you the proper cable (for free!). A royal PITA, I know, but there's no easy solution.
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Old Feb 24, 2012, 05:49 PM
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Soldering isn't a problem. As you can guess from my username I'm more into model trains, where engine repairs are also quite difficult sometimes. I at least feel more confident about the problem so that'll be okay.

The cam is meant to be used on a model locomotive incidentally, with a battery pack in the tender or carriage behind it. That way i can hopefully turn on the cam and let it run all day instead of stopping it every time i need to restart the cam
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Old Feb 24, 2012, 07:47 PM
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Hi, forgive but do not speak English (and I use the google translate, I have problems with the camera, start the recording, my plane flight and stops recording when you want, randomly, sometimes recorded 1 minute, another 3 minutes back to record and give the recording stops again when she wants, I have the latest firmware that removes the recording date and holds 70 minutes, but does not work well ... you can help me please? Thanks
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Old Feb 24, 2012, 10:44 PM
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Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
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Originally Posted by javi33 View Post
Hi, forgive but do not speak English (and I use the google translate, I have problems with the camera, start the recording, my plane flight and stops recording when you want, randomly, sometimes recorded 1 minute, another 3 minutes back to record and give the recording stops again when she wants, I have the latest firmware that removes the recording date and holds 70 minutes, but does not work well ... you can help me please? Thanks
Are you sure your battery is fully charged? Try recording using the car charger for power to see if it still stop recording early. What is the brand, capacity, and speed class of your flash card? Also, test the card using the h2testw.exe utility program (see the FAQs on page 3 for download site). Try another flash memory card... name brand class 4 cards are recommended. Avoid using Class 10 cards... they will not help get good recordings, and may even be incompatible with the camera.
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Last edited by Tom Frank; Feb 25, 2012 at 03:47 PM. Reason: added more flash card comments
Old Feb 25, 2012, 02:23 PM
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opening keychain

is it possible to open my keychain http://www.ebay.com/itm/260915148539...84.m1497.l2649 cause i have lost something inside by card slot?
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Old Feb 25, 2012, 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by flye View Post
is it possible to open my keychain http://www.ebay.com/itm/260915148539...84.m1497.l2649 cause i have lost something inside by card slot?
Remove the two small screws at the "keychain" end and slide the bottom half (the one without the buttons) forward by lifting the two halves at the "keychain" end by max. 5mm. Don't lift the two halves apart any more or you may break the tags at the front of the casing.

You can't open the card slot without soldering, and I don't advise you to do that. There is a tiny spring (bar) inside the card casing which will spring out. It is so small it is barely visible and I guarantee you will lose it if you aren't very careful.
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Old Feb 26, 2012, 04:01 PM
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Is it possibile the "loop recording" like in #16?. I would like to use the keychain #11 like a car blackbox to record always so when the memory is full it start recording deleting the older video.
Thanks for the reply!
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Old Feb 26, 2012, 07:25 PM
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Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
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Originally Posted by matrixFLYER View Post
Is it possibile the "loop recording" like in #16?. I would like to use the keychain #11 like a car blackbox to record always so when the memory is full it start recording deleting the older video.
Thanks for the reply!
It's probably possible, but not practical. It would take a special new firmware for this, and the demand is not there to make it worth while. This is one reason the #16 was developed. Sorry.
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Old Feb 27, 2012, 08:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
Remove the two small screws at the "keychain" end and slide the bottom half (the one without the buttons) forward by lifting the two halves at the "keychain" end by max. 5mm. Don't lift the two halves apart any more or you may break the tags at the front of the casing.

You can't open the card slot without soldering, and I don't advise you to do that. There is a tiny spring (bar) inside the card casing which will spring out. It is so small it is barely visible and I guarantee you will lose it if you aren't very careful.
Thanks with your help I got it!
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Old Feb 27, 2012, 03:10 PM
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Is there a possibility to overwrite oldest file automatically when card is full? So camera will not stop then card is full and continue recording.
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Old Feb 27, 2012, 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by hprowl View Post
Is there a possibility to overwrite oldest file automatically when card is full? So camera will not stop then card is full and continue recording.
This was just asked and answered two posts prior to yours!
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Old Mar 04, 2012, 04:15 AM
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Hasi's Avatar
Austria, Stmk., Graz
Joined Sep 2011
386 Posts
Hi,

I have a little problem with my #11 camera. It does not turn on. If I plug it in to charge, the red LED starts blinking real fast. If I hold the on/off button the blinking slows down, but if I re-press the on/off button it starts again blinking fast.
I've tryed to reset, but didn't work.

Any suggestions?
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Old Mar 04, 2012, 08:16 AM
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Montreal
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Originally Posted by Hasi View Post
Hi,I have a little problem with my #11 camera. It does not turn on. Any suggestions?
i suggest you to open the camera & measure actual battery voltage...

as mention before, the camera charge system let it go above 4.2v and may
dammage most of these camera lipo battery wich may lead to your problem
(it happend to me , i had to replace the battery) i'v install an external battery
+ futaba plug to monitor charge voltage :
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=8717

Maybe Tom could give an important advice about this camera charge circuit at the
first page ? as soon as a little battery this size gets hot, it mean overcharge ... my opinion...
all my coaxial heli & 1s airplane lipo never charge enought these 1s battery to heat them...

From now ON, i would not recommend to buy the # 11 and redirect customer to # 16...

Quote:
Originally Posted by ggtronic View Post
just dont thrust the # 11 charge circuit i saw mine go up to 4.3V
wich mean over charge
ounce i made my battery mod, i only charge it with a real lipo
charger with futaba servo plug wich will prevent from going over 4.2V

after killing the original battery with the bad charge circuit, i now leave it out of camera case... easy to change...
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Last edited by ggtronic; Mar 04, 2012 at 08:21 AM.
Old Mar 04, 2012, 01:17 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
17,193 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ggtronic View Post
i suggest you to open the camera & measure actual battery voltage...

as mention before, the camera charge system let it go above 4.2v and may
dammage most of these camera lipo battery wich may lead to your problem
(it happend to me , i had to replace the battery) i'v install an external battery
+ futaba plug to monitor charge voltage :
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=8717

Maybe Tom could give an important advice about this camera charge circuit at the
first page ? as soon as a little battery this size gets hot, it mean overcharge ... my opinion...
all my coaxial heli & 1s airplane lipo never charge enought these 1s battery to heat them...
There is a charge management IC on the main circuit board of both the #11 and #16 cameras. I don't have a spec sheet on it, but it reportedly has a typical lipo CC/CV charge cycle to limit the current during the initial charge until the voltage reaches the recommended battery max. (typically 4.2V), then switches to a constant voltage mode with diminishing current to maintain that voltage until the current is a pre-defined fraction of the of the initial current. It is unknown how accurate that charge management chip is in terms of the max. voltage allowed. On the #11, the charge current was on the high side according to the manufacturer, and that was why the battery life was shortened, not because of excessive voltage. The #16 camera has a lower charge current, and therefore takes longer to charge, as well. There has not been enough time since the #16 was released to tell how much additional life the battery will have due to the lower initial charge current.

In addition to that charge management IC, the camera battery also has a small protection circuit board soldered to it tabs. In short, the protection circuit will shut down the charge if the voltage rises to 4.3V (+- .05V) for a period of 80-200 ms. When the detected charge voltage drops to 4.1V (+- .05V), the charge cycle will automatically resume. While 4.2V is the widely accepted maximum voltage for continued charging, many lipo manufacturers claim a maximum and minimum voltage of 4.23 and 3.0 volts per cell, respectively. Taking any cell outside these limits can reduce the cell's capacity and ability to deliver full rated current. So it appears possible for the voltage to exceed the manufacturer's claimed limit if the charge management IC is off spec., but it would only be for a VERY brief fraction of a second before the charge cycle would terminate, and the charge would not resume until the voltage dropped back down to 4.1 (nominal) volts. It's unknown whether the charge management IC will even allow an excess voltage high enough to trigger the protection circuit to occur. I think some users have reported voltages in excess of 4.2V on a battery after a full charge, but it is unknown if this is real or a meter accuracy issue.

The battery protection circuit board also has an over-current trip (e.g. short circuit) and low voltage cutoff (LVC) while discharging. The LVC trip point is also on the low side based on conventional practice, but the camera will shut down due to insufficient voltage for the circuit board long before the LVC limit is reached, so it's not a factor.

Also, Since a battery has an internal resistance, heat is inevitable when current flows into or out of it, with more heat as the current increases. It is NORMAL for a lipo to get warm when charging and discharging with most consumer devices like this camera. A greater risk, in my opinion, is when an external battery is connected in series with the internal battery, such as is possible with a hack that uses the #11 "special" cable or that simply runs parallel wires from the circuit board battery connection pads to an external lipo. If the internal battery is at a lower voltage than the external battery, current will flow from the external cell to the internal cell with nothing to limit the current other than the voltage differential and battery internal resistances. And since a hack like that bypasses the circuit board charge management IC, it's possible that an even higher charging current can occur than would have come from the charge management IC. The safe way is to always be sure the internal cell is fully charged BEFORE connecting an external cell in series with it.
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Last edited by Tom Frank; Mar 04, 2012 at 01:32 PM.
Old Mar 04, 2012, 01:57 PM
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Austria, Stmk., Graz
Joined Sep 2011
386 Posts
So, back to my problem. The battery itself has 2.96V, which should not be. But It doesn't charge if I plug it in my computer. Now here comes the interestin thing, if I measure the volts after the battery circuit it says 2.63.

I like it, that it's small, and easy to operate, so I don't want to use any external batteries...

edit: If I plug it in and try to charge it, the voltage on the battery circuit goes up to 4.10V, but the actual battery does not do anything...
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