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Old Apr 13, 2013, 10:58 PM
I have a soldering iron.
Denmark, Central Denmark Region, Struer
Joined Mar 2013
326 Posts
New Product
GW Xieda 9968 - 4ch FP

GW Xieda 9968 RC helicopter - Indoor precision/aggressive flight-capability showoff:
GW Xieda 9968 RC helicopter - Precision & Aggressive flight (7 min 1 sec)

KKDDMM's pictures from http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1789011:



HeliPal.com - GW Xieda 9968 UH-1B Mini Helicopter Test Flight (3 min 23 sec)


I love this heli, it flies extremely well, considering the balance bar which would do much better as paddles.

General facts:

TX:
Steering mode(s): Mode 2 only
Bind button in left stick(press down while turning TX on)

Heli:
Turnigy 9X compatible.
Main-blade diameter: 23 cm
Tail-blade diameter: 4.5 cm
Balance-bar diameter: 15 cm
Canopy dimensions(length, width, height): 22.5cm, 4.5cm, 4cm
Weight without battery: 57.7 g

Battery:
Type: 3.7v LiPo
Capacity: 600mah
Weight: 17g

My review and thoughts:

TX pros(+):
• Very nice feel. Multiple ways to hold with a nice grip. You can hold it with it one hand and shake it violently while maintaining grip.
• It transmits very far. I haven't found the limit. I have flown it at over 100 meters(300 feet)(Sky Maker?) altitude without loosing signal(tiny dot).
• Sticks are good and maintaining precision is easy, almost perfect; stick-movement is a little hard(begins at 50 - 60 grams of pressure, which is less than most other cheap TX's). Knobs are good.

TX cons(-):
• Needs exponential stick input(but what other cheap TX's got that anyway?).
• Has no charger port.

Heli pros(+):
• Very well and thought-through overall design.
• Perfect center of gravity(provided that the removable lipo battery is installed with the cap facing towards the nose). It does tilt slightly to the right though(because of the tail rotor not being level with the main rotor; usual effect).
• Best gyro/utilization I have experienced in a cheap heli; perfect tail movement.
• It is extremely stable and needs little trim. It will hover next to still indoor. It's servos are precise and movement-locking, and has more than enough steps(which means that trim-steps are sufficiently small).
• Handles a great amount of wind considering it's size; it's flyable in up to 6 m/s winds(that's 21.6 km\h or 13.4 mph). It can handle even more wind, but then it wont be able to fly fast enough towards the wind to stay in the area.
• It flies extremely well and the directional movement is perfect; it is very responsive(no noticeable delay), precise, and fast; servos can ALMOST move as fast as my finger on the knob.
• The canopy is very solid and takes many direct punches into solid ground with no problem; landing skids are perfectly non-rigid. The inner canopy form has visibly been improved, to include crosses where it seems that prototypes without crosses had failed. The blades seem to not care much about crashes, and are also perfectly non-rigid.
• Plenty of flight time, even when having to cope with winds. It's easy to "feel" when the last drop of usable energy is being used, letting you know when it's time for a landing.
• It's one of the far most stunt-capable within it's class(small size/brushed motor) and type(fixed pitch).

Heli cons(-):
• 5 m/s winds from the left side pushes the tail to the degree, where the tail motor cannot push enough air in the opposite direction to turn clockwise.
• When flying violently and doing very quick movements, the balance-bar knobs will hit the canopy, potentially knocking the thing out of the air(depending on severity). It's easy to find the limit to not cause this(you can also hear it when you start approaching the limit). This is normally no problem for the canopy; however the other one I had got a little fracture in it's "window" from a balance bar knob during a crash.
• The landing-skid-screw-holders were ripped off when the front of the skid got stuck in moss, just after a downwards dive with full forward speed. Easily glue-able with no side-effects though.

Testing and results:

• Battery temperature before and after complete flight: 23C and 35C.
• Motor temperature before and after complete flight: 23C and 75C.
• Rotor RPM at hover: 2460.
• Rotor-edge speed at hover: 107 km/h or 66 mph.[(((Rotor-diameter x PI) x RPM) x 60) / 100000 = Edge-speed in KM/H(x 0.62 = mph)]
• Uninterrupted flight time(hover): 6 minutes 30 seconds

Pictures of the inside parts (Image 1 - 4):
Pictures of the heli, after a flight in 2.5mm/h rain (Image 5 - 7):
Image 3: Notice that the main-gear also functions as a cooling fan.
Image 7: Notice that the swashplate glides around a ball to ensure great precision.
Image 8: BenMa Helios 100 FlyBar ($2.20 free shipping) and GW 9968 Linkage Rods ($0.9 + $3.5 shipping), total $6.60.
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Last edited by FlyingTape; Jun 02, 2013 at 12:43 PM.
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Old Apr 25, 2013, 11:48 PM
I have a soldering iron.
Denmark, Central Denmark Region, Struer
Joined Mar 2013
326 Posts
Since you guys haven't realized the greatness of this helicopter yet, I have decided to make a video to convince you. It's the top one.
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Old Apr 27, 2013, 06:06 AM
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United States, WY, Newcastle
Joined Apr 2011
106 Posts
Looks Good. I almost bought some of these only the ones I looked at had the police style canopy. I would have had to buy a minimum of 12 at $45 each shipped to my door.The only reason I didn't buy them is that I'm into learning cp heli's. Good to see how they fly and thanks for the vid
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Old Apr 30, 2013, 11:32 AM
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Joined Jun 2012
36 Posts
Hi Flying Tape, I have bought two GW 9968. The rc heli is good - powerful and crash resistance - however, both heli lacking of forward speed. Does it occurs to yours too?
How to make it speed forward fast. I have tried adjusting the trim and servo link but still find it slow to move forward especially outdoor.
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Old May 01, 2013, 12:58 AM
I have a soldering iron.
Denmark, Central Denmark Region, Struer
Joined Mar 2013
326 Posts
You need to install the battery with the cap inwards, to increase weight in the nose.
Connect the battery outside of the helicopter, make sure that the battery-wire is facing downwards(towards it's new underside), keep the wire and connectors sticking out of the battery-hole when inserting the battery, insert the battery with the cap first and slide in the wire and connectors.
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Old May 01, 2013, 03:45 AM
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Any picture s guide? Thanks
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Old May 01, 2013, 05:06 AM
I have a soldering iron.
Denmark, Central Denmark Region, Struer
Joined Mar 2013
326 Posts
Make GW 9968 heavier in the nose using battery:
Pic 1 - 4 = Install
Pic 5 - 6 = Removal
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Last edited by FlyingTape; May 01, 2013 at 11:51 PM.
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Old May 01, 2013, 11:46 AM
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Joined Jun 2012
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Hi Flying Tape, thanks. However, cannot view picture.
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Old May 01, 2013, 11:26 PM
I have a soldering iron.
Denmark, Central Denmark Region, Struer
Joined Mar 2013
326 Posts
The image URL changed for some reason, I've fixed the URL and also attached the image.
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Last edited by FlyingTape; May 01, 2013 at 11:50 PM.
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Old May 02, 2013, 04:23 AM
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Joined Jun 2012
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Hi Flying Tape, thanks for the efforts. I have tried installing the battery in the method
you displayed but the result is still the same. One thing I notice was that when the servo moves, not much impact/ movement for the blade even though the linkage do move. It seems that the linkages have too much freeplay.
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Old May 02, 2013, 09:51 AM
I have a soldering iron.
Denmark, Central Denmark Region, Struer
Joined Mar 2013
326 Posts
That's very strange. Mine gets a good deal of additional forward movement, when the battery is installed the "wrong" way around; it should definitely move the center of gravity, the cap only holds air and a small pcb. Is backwards movement slow too?

When the blades don't spin(no centrifugal effect) the balance-bar will neutralize most of the linkage movement, unless you hold the balance-bar still. Are you holding it, if that's what you're talking about?

I'm surprised that you're having the same problem with both of your 9968's, the one I had(which was run over by a car) flied identically to the one I have now, forward speed is no problem.

Doesn't yours start to lean forward when you command it to? A FP helicopter won't fly very fast unless you lean it sufficiently, while giving the required extra throttle, to insure that the same amount of downwards airflow is present, while you use the extra for forward push.

Are you familiar with flying FP or are these your first ones?
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Old May 04, 2013, 12:12 PM
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Joined Jun 2012
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Hi Flying Tape
Thanks for the clear explanation
1) I will try to reverse the way to install the battery to test it tomorrow
2) the blade won't tilt much when I move the servo (using the tx) without spinning the blade
- just playing with the forward and backward stick
3) the linkage/ rod between the swash plate and the blade seem to be having too much free play
4) yes, the rc will lean forward (immediately) when you fly it from stationary. But it will not move pretty much forward when you try to increase speed. The feel is Just like against the wind
5) I have been flying fp for a while - ne 260a, 270a, 320a, GW 9958, wl etc
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Old May 04, 2013, 12:14 PM
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Joined Jun 2012
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In addition, the servo movement seems to be limited even at 'expert mode'. I have tried to shorten the servo arms but it never help
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Old May 07, 2013, 05:39 PM
I have a soldering iron.
Denmark, Central Denmark Region, Struer
Joined Mar 2013
326 Posts
Any updates? Did you fly with the battery cap turned inwards yet?
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Old May 09, 2013, 09:21 AM
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United Kingdom, England, Gillingham
Joined Feb 2010
53 Posts
greetings all my 9938 arrived today ,charged the battery and tried a flight. it seems alot more stable than my 9958 and goes ware you want it to, only problem is it nods when the sticks are moved (when correcting forward or back movement ) i wonder what turnigy battery's fit, i ordered a spare with the heli....mick
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