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Joined Sep 2011
24 Posts
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Maiden, over...
Hey guys. Any girl sail pilots on this thread?
Anyways I maidened my Radian PRO and wanted to share my thoughts. I primarily fly scale warbird, intermediate 3D, and pylon. My dad (old, bold guy) told me to go get a Radian v1. I was like, really dad? A three channel? C'mon. Long story short that got me hooked on gliders and a week later I had the Radian Pro. Opened the box and it was warped really bad. LHS (Gyro Hobby, Lake Forest, CA) exchanged for me and they were really cool about it. Not sure if they get support from HH or not but that store seriously takes care of people as long as you are nice. Other thing I noticed was Y-connector. Yuck. I'm a computer guy so the thought of not having individual servo control was not something I wanted to dabble with. So off to dad's house to pick up a used JR 9503 (currently on DX6i). (Dad is sorta addicted to R/C and spends a lot of time buying other peoples wrecks and making them perfect again. He even trues his own bicycle tires so you get the idea). Got everything out on table and wow. I couldn't figure out how to program the JR. I mean, I could sit and really learn this radio but I just wanted to try out camber and stuff. So after reading about radios the DX18 seemed like the clear winner for me. DX18 arrived from Soaring USA and it took maybe 10 minutes to setup. (note: yea 10 minutes to get it working but not perfect of course, again... wanted to fly). Went to maiden, was a handful to control and getting used to left stick flaps, right lever throttle, 5 flight modes, etc. (Sherman Knight program). Was way too much for my rookie glider thumbs. Landed and thought to myself, well this isn't fun like the Radian V1. So I started a new program from scratch in the DX18. Your going to think this is lame but since I mostly fly power I put power back on left throttle stick (yes motor is in aux not motor on receiver), flaps on left lever, and setup 3 flight modes. I also used a servo balancer and adjusted all the mechanicals with my limited knowledge of sail planes. Off to the field. Power up DX18, pre flight check list pops up, set my flight modes, 3…2…1… launch. I’m in the AIR, WOO HOO…. So I think. Ok let’s dial this puppy in. Each flight I pick 2 things to adjust. After I figure out how much I want (2-3 passes maybe) I land. Adjust… Launch… I did this 10 times. So that is about 20 adjustments on 1st battery. I switch it up to 2nd battery and decide to just fly it for a bit. WOW. Was super impressed, especially when under no power. I got some very very very minor thermal and very very minor lift from an adjacent hill at the park but overall this plane was flying really nice. My only complaint now is the stock prop (yep, ordering new prop and spinner now). Watt meter says I’m pulling 145 Watts & 12.5 Amps. So long story short I really like this plane. But what I like even more is the DX18 and sailplane programming. It is SO MUCH FUN to program this thing. It’s hard to believe how this compares to a real sailplane and all the tricks we have available to us as R/C pilots. Would I buy this plane again? NO. Sorry but it just isn’t cool enough to buy a 2nd one. I think my next plane will be the mystique. I figured the cost is under $1k for a fully loaded mystique, which is actually a lot cheaper than the full house sailplanes I have been looking at. Let the flame begin…
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I beg to differ from your opinion. First, I dont think that there is a misconception amongst "power pilots" about throttle placement. Depending which stick is set to be used as Throttle your radio is either set as "Mode 1" (throttle is with the right stick) or "Mode 2" (throttle on left stick) Most TX can be converted to either mode, and at least where I fly (South Africa), all pilots know this. Which mode you preferr is the first question you get asked at any shop when you want to buy a TX, and if you are new to the sport this is explained to you, so from the moment you get your first TX you know this. Next, what you are suggesting gives you the option of either having full throttle or Zero Throttle. I only have ten flights with what is my first glider and may be considered a "glider newbie". I do, However, have several hundred powered flights and It makes no sense not to me to be able to use less than full throttle. I find that launching is far more controllable when the throttle is advanced gently (as is any powered flight, and when you use throttle you are not actually gliding but rather flying a glider but a cumbersome powered-plane). Also, if one needs a bit of throttle on final approach once again it makes more sense (to me) to be able to use less than full throttle. Fail safe mode can indeed be set with the gear mode (make sure the TX is in the Zero-throttle position when you bind hte RX) but it is irrelevant to me if I cannot have more options other than Zero or 100% throttle. Brgds, Danny |
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The RP power system if designed for one purpose and that's to make the RP go up. Need a burst to extend the glide home? Then give it a burst. Having crow on an analogue stick is actually way more useful to an experienced glider pilot. |
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Latest blog entry: Foamie Resurrection
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I don't really use crow for landing glide slope control. I use it mainly to dive out of a strong thermal. My crow is on a separate switch which simply deflects the ailerons upward a fixed amount (about 25 degrees). It does nothing to the flaps. I modulate the flaps with the stick to slow the dive as needed. For landing glide slope I usually select a little camber and use the flap stick to adjust the glide slope. The only downside of the programming on my dx7 is that I am unable to add elevator mix to the flap stick. Just too many mixes in use. I also have another switch (gear) programmed to deploy about 35-40 degrees of fixed flap, and that is mixed to the elevator. If I know my approach is high, I usually flip that, and then add a little more flap as needed with the proportional stick. I just have to work the elevator when using that proportional flap stick to keep the pitch down. |
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There's more than one way to fly a plane but only one best way. In my opinion, of course. |
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Latest blog entry: Foamie Resurrection
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Latest blog entry: Foamie Resurrection
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I do not know about all of your radios, but on my JR9503 if you pick sailplane as the aircraft type it remaps the receiver so that the throttle channel is no longer for throttle. The 9503 manual clearly tells you what channels will be what after you pick sailplane as the aircraft type. so you can assign throttle to some other switch, such as my right or left slider switch and use the left throttle stick for flaps or crow. Just my two cents.
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Gerry_ , many glider pilots setup motor on on/off switch since in their view, it is used as 'winch in a nose', one full power climb to a height and the turn off and forget about it. ALES competitions, where Radians are used a lot, work that way. In emergency it is only switch flip away. It cannot be used for controlling the landings, just flying skill. There will always be a compromise on radios that do not have full sailplane programing and button assignments, like 9303 or Airtronics or high end Futabas....... We just have to make due with what suits us best. |
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Latest blog entry: Foamie Resurrection
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My radio has a limited number of mixes, so I've picked those that I tend to use more. There may be some advantage, but mine is set up according to my preferences.
I do have full crow function, a switch and modulation of the flap. I can dive the plane straight down with full crow and it does not go above 35 mph. |
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In normal a glide my throttle stick is forward, for zero flap. If I hit the mix switch the throttle stick is in the full forward position and off she flies, under full power. If iI'm approaching at half flap and I flick the switch, the flaps retract and I get half throttle instantly. |
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