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Joined May 2006
210 Posts
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mSRx Manual Servo Link Adjustment Methods, MMM vs JBB
I just wanted to clear some things up with the ‘manual trimming’ scheme called “MMM” on these mSRx threads, formalize my own JBB Method, and make sure folks are getting accurate information, and also have a centralized location for folks to search (alot of posts ask 'where is the method') and since it's so critical for everyone to do something to get their servo links set to the correct length, here is it's very own thread:
Adjusting the links was originally posted by Spainman back on 1/2/12 Quote:
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A couple days later I, JBB, was actually the one who added the ‘3 clicks of rudder’ (disable Heading Hold) step to this process and proposed “MMMv.JBB” verson on 1/12/12 7:23pm Quote:
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step 2-3: Why would you do the 3 rudder clicks while the heli is in flight, only to then have to ‘ignore’ the resulting yaw...when you trim the rudder while flying, the heli will start to yaw in that direction. step 4: While the heli has, for example, ‘3 left clicks’ then the only way a rudder application will then ‘re-enable the AS3X’ is if you push the stick to the *Right, just enough* to get the Tx signal back into ‘rudder center’ range (which is within 2 clicks either side), so seems one would need to be very precise to accomplish this, and it is completely unnecessary. step 5: again, I just don’t understand the concept of ‘adjusting Tx trims’ to get it into stable hover Now I’d like to explain what will now be called the “JBB Method” of Manually Trimming the mSRx Servo Links: 1: Initialize heli as normal, and enter 3 clicks of rudder while the motor is off (or as many as it takes to disable your Heading Lock)…..or I suppose you could alternately give the rudder 3 clicks of rudder even before initializing the heli. 2: Fly the heli into a stable hover, (it will NOT yaw left, because you entered the Left Rudder trim while the motor was off….when you then turned the motor ON to takeoff, the system baselined the yaw, so in effect your rudder trim is not affecting the heli to yaw, it’s only turned off the Heading Lock.) 3: While the heli is in hover, release the right stick for a brief moment and note which way the heli drifts. 4: Land the heli and adjust the links, based on your observations in step #3, and repeat to step #2 So, do NOT fly the heli before disabling the Heading Hold Do NOT adjust trims for stable hovering Just shut off the Heading Hold before flight, get it into stable hover using only the sticks, (shouldn't even need rudder for stable hover this method), let go of the right stick (see which way it drifts), and land. Adjust. Repeat. So, there's 2 methods, choose the one most comfortable for you, or suggest your own version. Since I'm a fairly new 'heli' pilot, I choose the method without the 'yaw'. MMM v1.0 was too difficult for me to do, and MMMv2.0 just didn't make sense to me and seems too difficult due to the resulting yaw. And just for fun, after you've adjusted your swash as close to perfect as you can....have a romp around the gym with the Heading Hold turned OFF....see how skittish it flies? That's what is going on in 'Normal' mode, when you have the rudder applied. It's hard for me to believe that this was an intentional design, esp. in light of the earlier mCPx not doing it, and it being the better flyer. |
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Aachen, Germany
Joined Jun 2007
632 Posts
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I wonder where the difference is - what transmitter are you using? I've tried it with the stock transmitter and it works. Maybe your trim clicks are more coarse if you are using another tx and you move out of the range that the rx tolerates as "zeroable". - does the swashplate counteract movements while the motor is off? Maybe your throttle trim is high enough to enable the algorithms but low enough that the motor is still not turning... - have you tried triming left and right without success? Now that I think about it I always give three clicks of left rudder before takeoff when I want some "extra fun" ;-) Maybe it depends on the direction. Considering that this is software and most likely we have all the same firmware there should be no variations in the behaviour. Cheers, Ruben |
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Joined May 2006
210 Posts
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Either way it gets done...jes git'er done!
If the swash didn't do what it does, then it wouldn't be so critical...but that's what we've got, it is what it is. Btw I usually need some rudder action to get into hover but once there it is set pretty well. And that's in either mode. |
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DX6i. 2 clicks either direction will reset the AS3X. No dual rates, no expo.
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Yep. Left or right, same result. Now 2 clicks doesn't result in very much yaw, but it's there. Hmm... I am using the longer mCPX tail boom. That may have something to do with it. Quote:
It's not worth worrying about anyway. |
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Aachen, Germany
Joined Jun 2007
632 Posts
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I just had a flight and rechecked it - it doesn't yaw (really not a bit) as long as the trim change is small enough. Doing the same with a "serious" tx (module based transmitter with trim slider) needed some fiddling to find the point where the mode changes and the rx still re-zeros the input on motor start. Cheers, Ruben |
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Toronto Canada
Joined Dec 2002
5,130 Posts
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I just wanted to point out there is still another way to set the heli up if you have a transmitter with visible trim position indicators (DX6i).
1. Fly the heli. Adjust for a hands-off hover using the transmitter trims. 2. Land the heli. Note the position of the transmitter trims and adjust the corresponding swash links so that they move the swash in the same direction as indicated by the trim position on the transmitter. 3. Fly the heli again and repeat until the transmitter trims are in their neutral position when hovering. The heli swash will now be in the same position in hover mode and neutral mode. I believe that this works because it is likely that the software sets the servo neutral position to be servo center (1.5 ms. pulses). This is the same timing that most transmitters put out when their trims are centered. If you are able to hover the mSRX in a hands-off hover with the transmitter trims centered, that means that in the hover position the swash is in the same neutral position that it goes to when rudder is applied or the motor is off. This also means that if you are unable to attain close to a hands-off hover with the transmitter trims centered, it is likely that your heli is not properly set up. |
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It wasn't until I started wondering about how I would remember the trim clicks that it finally hit me.I think I finally understand now why you keep suggesting to use the trims to adjust for a hands free hover, then adjust the linkage arms based on the trims. It always sounded more complicated then it needed to be. My style is to observe the corrections needed to hold the hover, then adjust the links accordingly without touching the trim buttons. It's quick and easy, but admittedly, the closer you get to 'true' pitch, the harder it is to decide what corrections to make and it becomes a game of 'maybe needs more right then left'. The longer you hold the hover, the more instinctively you adjust the stick and the harder it is to realize what direction you're correcting. It gets the job done, even if that final adjustment is closer to splitting hairs. But I see now that if you use trim buttons to find that sweet spot, then you can yank it around a bit and play with it a little (loosen the brain and the thumb) to see if center stick really is just right. It's like a fine adjustment to my course adjustment. I think I'll play around with half turns on the servo arms (flipping the arm hook on the servo) to get it down to that last fraction of an adjustment. Besides, the concentrated hovering practice never hurts
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I'm trying real hard to get this but when I get my hands off over, lasts a few seconds, the heli never start drifting in the same direction, witch makes it hard to adjust the servo links.
Also what does heading off do? Yeah I know I'm a real noob, I have probably 50 flights on this, but I'm really enjoying this 1st heli of mine. Never was able to make the MMM work. |
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