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Old Aug 20, 2014, 06:01 AM
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United States, MD, Elkton
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Build Log
Sterling 48" Corvette "Double Trouble"

It was politely suggested to me, that maybe a second thread should be added, to separate these two builds.

It hadn't occurred to me that maybe I was invading the other one..and maybe I wasn't...But I PM'd the other OP, asking permission to stay, and I haven't heard back from him.

So here we be..I've named my baby "Double Trouble", since there are two builds, and they are twin powered..-I'm not so much interested in running the boat, as I am in building it.

The description "scale boat" can be construed as a misnomer, as I want to build 'scale like', but not be limited to scale parts..-case in point- I like wood hand rails, preferred to Stainless ones. I also like caulked decks, and the full scale did not have them.

In this build, I'll treat the boat as if it were a full scale one, that I've bought and am restoring, with personal changes that make me happy.

That's not exactly untrue with the model, since it was partially built when I acquired it.
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Old Aug 20, 2014, 07:47 AM
31" corvette models
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Double Trouble

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Old Aug 20, 2014, 10:06 PM
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I am at a loss as to what to do with electric power. This kit came with two can motors, marked 6 v.dc.,9amps max.
I have two 6 volt batteries, gel cell, and a speed controller which I know nothing about...Woe is me.
I'm well aware of Mack's wares, but maybe I should get familiar with electric power with these ones I have first.
Ignoring Mack's products for the moment, should I install a 10 amp fuse in each circuit? and will a single ESC run two motors ? The ESC is a 35 amp.,6 volt, bec.
I think.
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Old Aug 23, 2014, 05:30 AM
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I finished planking the forward deck yesterday, and sanded it smooth. I made a tool to scrape the spaces between the planks to a uniform size.

I'll do three coats of spray varnish sanding between coats, then fill those gaps with latex caulking.

Probably two more coats of Clear will do the trick,after that.
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Old Aug 23, 2014, 09:04 AM
Grumpa Tom
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Lookin' good!
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Old Aug 23, 2014, 09:21 AM
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Thanks-The transom is like a sheet of glass, but when I use flash, it washes out...I need SUNSHINE!
I'm heading out to get latex caulk, and mess around with a test strip..
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Old Aug 23, 2014, 09:59 AM
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Old Aug 23, 2014, 01:32 PM
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Never occurred to me that this could seem strange to a first time visitor to arrive in the middle of this build thread..

HEY !- that's how I got here.!

I bought this boat partially built by several owners over the years...The hull was framed and planked. The deck was installed on the bow, and all the rest of the unbuilt model was in the kit box.

At some time, someone had purchased the original hardware kit, and the drive system.....to a point. It has motors, props, shafts and stuffing boxes..-No batteries or speed controllers. I have a pair of LARGE brushed motors just given to me, that he says will go "pfffttt" to those small props.

I've built the cabin,and lots of handrails, a ladder so you can climb over the aft cabin, rather than through .-What if they are asleep ?

I'm impatiently waiting for the varnish to dry on the fore deck, so I can begin filling the spaces between the planks with white caulk 'guaranteed for 50 years' by Locktite....That means it'll last until I'm 123 years old.
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Old Aug 23, 2014, 07:15 PM
Portland Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by epoxyearl View Post
I am at a loss as to what to do with electric power. This kit came with two can motors, marked 6 v.dc.,9amps max.
I have two 6 volt batteries, gel cell, and a speed controller which I know nothing about...Woe is me.
I'm well aware of Mack's wares, but maybe I should get familiar with electric power with these ones I have first.
Ignoring Mack's products for the moment, should I install a 10 amp fuse in each circuit? and will a single ESC run two motors ? The ESC is a 35 amp.,6 volt, bec.
I think.
Earl,

With the specs that you quoted I would install three fuses, two between each motor and the speed control with a 7.5 amp fuse in each one this way you are under the maximum amperage that the motor can take so if something goes wrong you will not damage the motor. The speed control that you listed would run boat motors with out a problem. I would a 20 amp fuse in between the battery and the speed control, this will prevent the speed control from going up in smoke. Remember that you want the fuse to be less than the maximum voltage or amperage of the device, the fuse is there to be the weak link in the chain.

Andre
Portland Oregon
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Old Aug 23, 2014, 08:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andre Anderson View Post
Earl,

With the specs that you quoted I would install three fuses, two between each motor and the speed control with a 7.5 amp fuse in each one this way you are under the maximum amperage that the motor can take so if something goes wrong you will not damage the motor. The speed control that you listed would run boat motors with out a problem. I would a20 amp fuse in between the battery and the speed control, this will prevent the speed control from going up in smoke. Remember that you want the fuse to be less than the maximum voltage or amperage of the device, the fuse is there to be the weak ling inn the chain.

Andre
Portland Oregon
Thank you...I've been an IC Airplane modeler forever. Boat electrics are an unknown to me.-so LESS amperage fuses,then, than the tolerance of the motor......
I trust MACK to supply the correct drive system, but I want to learn on the 50 year old equipment that was original to the boat-(it's handy)...
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Old Aug 24, 2014, 03:47 AM
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This old boater remembers masking off the deck boards with masking tape and filling the seams in the deck with some black tar product Owens supplied. If the seam was too high you let it dry and leveled it with a single edge blade.
Your varnish work is beautiful looking forward to viewing the model.
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Old Aug 24, 2014, 04:53 AM
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Thanks, Ray. I'm hoping to bring it to the Old Fart's Breakfast Wednesday.

I replaced the decks on a couple of runabouts, and I remember the taping and the scraping.We used white latex caulk, as it is an adhesive, as well as a sealer.

I wonder whose paints were used on Chris Craft.? -and does ANYBODY still sell the Copper Bronze bottom paint, or has the EPA totally stopped it's sales. ? I'd like to use original paints on this, but looking at car paint, there's a dupli-color that would be fine..'G.M.Camel'
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Old Aug 24, 2014, 06:29 PM
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Milford Mi.
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Paint

Hi epoxyearl, If you go to Klass-Kote web site. Go to paintstore, urethane and basecoats. There are a couple of colors that may work for the bottom. Queens gold or Greeks gold. If you call Nate at Klass Kote , he may be able to give you
a better idea of what you are looking for. I originally used Dupli-color urethane wheel paint on my Cobra and then on my Corvette. They don't make that color
any more . I had a can and a half left over from the Cobra, but when I went to paint the Corvette, the full can would not spray. Luckily I was able to do it with half a can. Klass Kote will be my next option. Thank you, Gary
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Old Aug 24, 2014, 07:06 PM
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Thank you for the info....I've found some original copper bronze for a king's ransom, so an alternative would be welcomed. ($100 per quart) yecchh.....

I've heard of Klass Kote on the model aircraft side, but I've never used it.
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Old Aug 26, 2014, 08:09 PM
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I was unhappy with the plywood windshields supplied, so I undertook milling some mahogany into window frames.
- With mitered corners as we did on the full scale..
Why do I do this to myself ?
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