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Old Jun 13, 2014, 09:45 AM
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Canada, BC, Lake Cowichan
Joined Jul 2011
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video from the Western Canadian IOM Championship

The Westerns were held on June 6/7/8 at the Salt Spring Island Sailing Club, British Columbia.

Competitor Bob Lewis took a couple of videos of the event.

Here is Race 16, sailing in A rigs.

Andy Slow Wins Race 16 2014 IOM Western Canadians (9 min 31 sec)


Here is Race 25, where much of the fleet switched to B rigs.

Gary's Glorious Race 25 Win Saltspring June 8 2014 (8 min 3 sec)



Thanks Bob.

John
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Old Jun 13, 2014, 04:18 PM
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Joined Oct 2013
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Quote:
Here is Race 25, where much of the fleet switched to B rigs.
impressed with #36 & #3 holding onto A rig....you sail where Angels fear to sail Thanks for Video.
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Old Jun 13, 2014, 05:16 PM
Grant L
Auckland NZ
Joined Nov 2010
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Originally Posted by coolmobility View Post
My boat is an old 2005 model of which I'm about the fourth owner. I'm pretty sure it leaks around rectangular Tupperware type pop-on lid that I'm removing and replacing with a flat plate taped down with screw top access but had to wait till end of season to fix over our Winter. So now working on it.
Hi Colin is that the mussel pot lids I sent you? If fitted properly they wont leak as I have the same system in one of my Marbleheads and it is always bone dry.
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Old Jun 14, 2014, 02:04 AM
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Australia, VIC, Paynesville
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PB88 I thank you for the mussel pot lids, they are great but too deep for my skiff deck and I want to try screw top lid pots that I have recently found that are more shallow and will fit complete into deck hatch and give a salt water proof container for Rx and battery.

Mind you, considering putting in a mussel pot lid further back on the deck to open for drying out what little water I hope to have. The clear lid will show condensation and be easier to remove/replace than a patch or hatch lid taped on and give access to blow hull dry after a days racing to save winch motor from rusting out. Thank you so much for sending those over, much appreciated.

Being a quad with limited finger use, my boat has to be easy to set-up and break down, as done with help by other club members. Screw tops so much easier to loosen/tighten than pop lids by arthritic or cold fingers. May make two hatches, while I'm at it, one with sealed pot, other with Mussel pot lid open into hull with internal pot for Rx. Still yet to decide but sick of wet boats!

Videos of Western Canadian IOM Championship were interesting in showing such polite and clean roundings with very few infringements and no irate shouting for room. Great vids.
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Old Jun 14, 2014, 06:38 AM
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Sticking the pot in with Goop works much better than silicone which leaves a residue on removal that's hard to remove,wrap the coarse thread on the pot with some plumbers tape and use a wad in the cover.Water will work up the coarse thread if the pot is mounted in a recess and wet most of the time.
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Old Jun 15, 2014, 03:24 AM
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Australia, VIC, Paynesville
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Originally Posted by The Tug View Post
Sticking the pot in with Goop works much better than silicone which leaves a residue on removal that's hard to remove,wrap the coarse thread on the pot with some plumbers tape and use a wad in the cover.Water will work up the coarse thread if the pot is mounted in a recess and wet most of the time.
Unluckily GOOP is not readily available in Australia ($6 for tube +$25 to $41 postage on ebay from US). Which GOOP do you use so I can try and source an equivalent here.

[Edit] Have found a possible source of AMAZING GOOP from Fishpond.com.au for Australian modelers at only $8.95 delivered [end Edit]

There is Marine, wood, plumbers, etc so you need to be specific please for those who can get it.

What about gluing in a thin silicone or similar gasket in lid top to waterproof screw top? Keep water OUT not just soak it up when it gets to top of thread.

PB88 The pop on mussel pot lid may be better option anyway hearing that water goes up the threads.
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Last edited by coolmobility; Jun 15, 2014 at 04:55 AM. Reason: Source for Goop found
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Old Jun 15, 2014, 08:53 AM
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Barbados
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I use the plumbers goop or the marine goop,seems like the same product only the marine being more expensive,Just smear the pot and insert, what pushes out do not be tempted to smear it flat leave it alone as you'll make a mess,the amazing part of this stuff is that will disappear as it dries almost like it evaporates to almost invisible.10 yrs later to remove grab an end and pull it's like a rubber band,unlike silicone that's almost impossible to create a fresh surface.
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Old Jun 15, 2014, 09:02 AM
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Barbados
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As far as the pot lid goes,as said I wrap the thread with plumbers tape to make the threads snug,the wad is not something to absorb but rather to make a seal like what they use in a coffee lid with a plastic finish heaven knows what it's called.This is for boats that carry the lid in a recess and therefore the lid is underwater most of the time,works a treat and not a big deal.
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Old Jun 15, 2014, 02:41 PM
Grant L
Auckland NZ
Joined Nov 2010
43 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by coolmobility View Post
PB88 I thank you for the mussel pot lids, they are great but too deep for my skiff deck and I want to try screw top lid pots that I have recently found that are more shallow and will fit complete into deck hatch and give a salt water proof container for Rx and battery.

Mind you, considering putting in a mussel pot lid further back on the deck to open for drying out what little water I hope to have. The clear lid will show condensation and be easier to remove/replace than a patch or hatch lid taped on and give access to blow hull dry after a days racing to save winch motor from rusting out. Thank you so much for sending those over, much appreciated.

Being a quad with limited finger use, my boat has to be easy to set-up and break down, as done with help by other club members. Screw tops so much easier to loosen/tighten than pop lids by arthritic or cold fingers. May make two hatches, while I'm at it, one with sealed pot, other with Mussel pot lid open into hull with internal pot for Rx. Still yet to decide but sick of wet boats!

Videos of Western Canadian IOM Championship were interesting in showing such polite and clean roundings with very few infringements and no irate shouting for room. Great vids.
Hi Colin
We don't use the complete pot. I cut it off around 15mm below the flange and punch small holes around the flange then epoxy it in . In the top of the lid near the outside punch a small hole and thread a piece of braid through the hole and a small bead so that you can grip onto it when removing it. On the underside tie a few Knots and epoxy it into place. Never had one leak and a number of us now use this system. You can then place your battery in the bottom of the boat as it should now be dry.
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Old Jun 16, 2014, 01:04 AM
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Australia, VIC, Paynesville
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Originally Posted by PB88 View Post
Hi Colin
We don't use the complete pot. I cut it off around 15mm below the flange and punch small holes around the flange then epoxy it in . In the top of the lid near the outside punch a small hole and thread a piece of braid through the hole and a small bead so that you can grip onto it when removing it. On the underside tie a few Knots and epoxy it into place. Never had one leak and a number of us now use this system. You can then place your battery in the bottom of the boat as it should now be dry.
Thanks for that PB88. I'm starting to lean more towards using your pot lids as would be fast and easy to pop off with pull cord. May try that with holes drilled for keys and GOOP to hold it into new hatch cover. My Rx goes into sample bottle velcroed to deck and that works fine. Just have had wet LiPos (no runaways yet and only used one battery pack this season and still good) and don't like that problem. Don't want a Viking Funeral
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Old Jun 16, 2014, 03:13 AM
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United Kingdom, Wales, The Mumbles
Joined Dec 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coolmobility View Post
Thanks for that PB88. I'm starting to lean more towards using your pot lids as would be fast and easy to pop off with pull cord. May try that with holes drilled for keys and GOOP to hold it into new hatch cover. My Rx goes into sample bottle velcroed to deck and that works fine. Just have had wet LiPos (no runaways yet and only used one battery pack this season and still good) and don't like that problem. Don't want a Viking Funeral
On the subject of LiPo's a very, very popular UK RC flying website/forum recently conducted a poll in to alleged LiPo fires. The findings and general chat make for interesting reading.
It appears LiPo's aren't as dangerous as people make out! ESC's are apportioned with quite a few fires which needn't worry us. http://www.modelflying.co.uk/forums/...s.asp?th=96287
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Old Jun 16, 2014, 07:10 AM
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Joined Oct 2013
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any ideas to prevent cord catching on keel locknut on deck. without resorting to a rail or guard etc.
...thinking a locknut with a deflecting flange ?
happens in mostly light drifters. new jib cord occasionally curling around locknut.
Cheers
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Old Jun 16, 2014, 10:05 AM
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Canada, BC, Campbell River
Joined Oct 2012
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Originally Posted by iicaptain View Post
any ideas to prevent cord catching on keel locknut on deck. without resorting to a rail or guard etc.
...thinking a locknut with a deflecting flange ?
happens in mostly light drifters. new jib cord occasionally curling around locknut.
Cheers
If you can, replace the stud with a screw. This has two advantages. If you use a countersunk screw nothing will catch on it. The rules state that the bulb/fin is weighed without attaching hardware. If you don't have to weigh the stud you can put that weight in the bulb
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Old Jun 16, 2014, 10:21 AM
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United States, MO, St. Louis
Joined Jan 2014
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Originally Posted by iicaptain View Post
any ideas to prevent cord catching on keel locknut on deck. without resorting to a rail or guard etc.
...thinking a locknut with a deflecting flange ?
happens in mostly light drifters. new jib cord occasionally curling around locknut.
Cheers
Acorn nut or a piece of tape over the nut.
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Old Jun 16, 2014, 02:11 PM
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Cheers for that
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