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Old Jul 21, 2015, 11:13 AM
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The Junk Man
Jacksonville, Florida
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Peter Rake Prototype Build: De Havilland DH6 - New Videos

Pete started a request for prototype builds here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2453838

I am a big fan of De Havilland aircraft of all types and the DH6 was on the list... so, here we go.

The DH6 was designed from the ground up with two design goals.

1. Cheap to build
2. As a very easy to fly primary trainer

Please note the DH6 differs from most De Havilland aircraft in that it is not very appealing to the eye, not to say downright ugly.

No graceful De Havilland curves here, everything (and I mean EVERYTHING) is chopped off square in the interest of being quick and cheap to build. She looks more like one of your skinny elderly aunts, all angles and elbows, rather than the curvy sweet thing that lived net door and taught you about the facts of life.

But even lacking in the looks department, it came through on top of both goals, cheap and so easy to fly it was almost considered a fault.

The 'fault' part came about thus:

At that time deaths during pilot training were off the charts. Students killed so many instructors that the instructors started calling them 'Huns'. The DH6 was easy to fly and had, in later models, one of the first controls disconnect systems so instructors could immediately take control instead of having to wrestle the controls away from a panicked student.

The DH6 was easy to fly however, so accident levels dropped significantly... until the students, brought along by the so-easy-to-fly-a-kid-could-do-it DH6 were dropped into aircraft that had to be handled very gingerly else they killed you.

The DH6 continued in a training capacity until replaced by the Avro 504 toward the end of 1917. After its spell as a primary trainer it was pressed into anti-submarine duties and even had the somewhat unique talent of being able to float for up to 10 hours after a forced landing on water.

The DH6 was never fast or pretty, but did its duty well.

More to follow.

Tom
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Old Jul 21, 2015, 01:36 PM
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Old Jul 21, 2015, 01:52 PM
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The Junk Man
Jacksonville, Florida
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Since a "build" thread should start off with at lease SOMETHING related to building, I will begin with this.

The first view is of my workbench at my office. Since I own the business, I get to play while my employees, who happen to be all women, work. Which, for some odd reason, suits them just fine as they are constantly shooing me away when I bother them with "help".

An otherwise intelligent soul who goes by BalticS2 was overcome by a moment of insanity and commented about my "tidy" Ultracal 30 mold making methods here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1124

I was so happy about that I showed my wife who mumbled a phrase containing the word "delusional" and wandered off.

But I digress.

I use a magnetic building board and will never go to anything else. The one I have here at the office is described in this thread: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2011807 Go to post #11. Cheap, flat, lightweight and works perfectly.

I cleaned up the mess and got started. Photos 1 and 2 are sorta "before and after" shots.

Next, the unboxing. The short kit was ordered from Charlie at Manzano Laser Works. http://www.manzanolaser.com/

I can't say enough kind things about Charlie. He is very helpful to everyone on the forums, a knowledgeable builder in his own right, and he and Vicki have some amazing cut kits they offer. And by the way, no fiduciary involvement, just a nice guy to know and I am a happy customer. I paid for the kit just like anyone else would do.

The kit arrived very quickly (2 days) in a sturdy box held fast inside with packing paper. The plans are neatly rolled (not folded, I HATE folded plans).

One sheet of bass, one of ply, and two of balsa. Nice balsa and the bass was clear as a bell. The laser work is fantastic. The plans are in two sheets, fuselage with horizontal and vertical stabilizer on one, wings on the other. Peter posted a .pdf file in the "Prototypes" thread already mentioned.

Because of the low parts count and simplicity of the plan, I am just going to remove the parts as I need them.

Just like with every "plan" build I do, the very first thing was to scan the plans and print out working copies. We have large format printers here at the office so no worries about printing.

My scanner however, is just the normal office scanner and maxes out at legal paper size. No worries, I scan in sections and put them together using PhotoShop. If you do not have PhotoShop, the free clone called "Gimp" (I am not making that up) may do just as well. You need a program that can load .jpg scans, rotate them to perfect horizontal and vertical, then join the individual scans into one. Then print the one. PhotoShop can rotate to .01 degree accuracy. Close enough for me.

A copy of the plans are on the board, covered with a loose sheet of Doculam (laminating film) and held by magnets.

More to follow.

Tom
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Old Jul 21, 2015, 02:33 PM
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Old Jul 21, 2015, 05:24 PM
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Tom,
Please note what I said elsewhere about the pushrods being shown the wrong way round. Just put the exit plates on the opposite sides.
It was only this evening that I located a spare brick and thought to check which side is which.

Pete
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Old Jul 21, 2015, 05:43 PM
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Welcome to the micro world. I saw that you found my DH.6 thread in the scratchbuilt micro forum and like me are new to these tiny little aircraft. It will be interesting to follow your build and compare and contrast it with mine. Hopefully I can pick up some tips from you.

I was just wondering, if you have a large format printer why did you have to scan the plans? Couldn't you just print full size extra copies from the pfd file that Pete has posted?

Larry
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Old Jul 21, 2015, 06:30 PM
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Thanks for the kind comments.

As I am about to start the little Pietenpol I will be following these tiny airplane threads with interest.

charlie
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Old Jul 21, 2015, 08:44 PM
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The Junk Man
Jacksonville, Florida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PETERRAKE View Post
Tom,
Please note what I said elsewhere about the pushrods being shown the wrong way round. Just put the exit plates on the opposite sides.
It was only this evening that I located a spare brick and thought to check which side is which.

Pete
No worries. But I am going to try micro servos (2 gram) with pull-pull controls.

Tom
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Old Jul 21, 2015, 08:53 PM
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The Junk Man
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lnagel View Post
Welcome to the micro world. I saw that you found my DH.6 thread in the scratchbuilt micro forum and like me are new to these tiny little aircraft. It will be interesting to follow your build and compare and contrast it with mine. Hopefully I can pick up some tips from you.

I was just wondering, if you have a large format printer why did you have to scan the plans? Couldn't you just print full size extra copies from the pfd file that Pete has posted?

Larry
You are leaning on a slender reed picking up tips from me on these micro birds.

This is my first micro.

Scanning the plans was just habit plus I wanted the .jpg format to work with when doing the printing to tissue. I could have converted the pdf file I suppose but I sometimes run into scaling problems doing that. Scanning is no problem.

Tom
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Old Jul 22, 2015, 02:48 PM
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The Junk Man
Jacksonville, Florida
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Everyone loves a little tail.

I started with the horizontal and vertical stabilizers along with the elevator. And in this case they are little indeed.

First shot shows plans on the board, again held with magnets.

Second shows start of elevator. You trim off a 1/16" square piece off the edge of the included bass sheet and make the elevator half joiner.

Third is magnets again, holding everything square and true.

Fourth shows the Honey pot glue syringe. I use TiteBond Original for everything not needing a "special" (i.e. epoxy, etc.) bond.

Number 5, 6 and 7 just continue the glueup. I let most of the parts like the leading and trailing edges shown just run out instead of trying to trim them to exact lengths before gluing. Much easier to just use a sanding block and sand back to a perfect edge than trimming a bunch of sticks exactly.

8 and 9 are the finished horizontal stabilizer and elevator.

More to come.

Tom
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Old Jul 22, 2015, 05:01 PM
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Nice start there Tom. I like the idea of using doculam as a plans protector. I too have a 500 foot roll. So how do you get the doculam to clear up without sticking to anything? Mine comes off of the roll frosty and doesn't clear up until heated.

Larry
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Old Jul 22, 2015, 05:15 PM
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The Junk Man
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Larry, this is off a roll of glossy 3 mil that I never use. 1.2 mil is WAY strong enough for almost anything.

The adhesive on that roll is not as cloudy as on some I have tried and is plenty clear enough for using it to cover plans.

Tom
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Old Jul 22, 2015, 05:35 PM
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Tom,
I hope you're also saving those photos without the captions. While fine in a build thread, they don't work so well for publication.

Pete
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Old Jul 22, 2015, 06:06 PM
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The Junk Man
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Yep. The ones in the build thread are reduced size copies of the originals. The forum only takes 1000 pixels on longest side anyway.

Tom
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Old Jul 22, 2015, 06:11 PM
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Hi Tom, I agree that having the full size plan in .jpg form is much nicer for printing, scaling and modifying. I have Paintshop Pro and use its browser to organize and find photos and drawings. The trouble is that it will only open or show some .pdf files. However, I found that if I open the .pdf using a .pdf reader, I can zoom in to a reasonable size and the take a screen print (Ctrl+Print Screen) of the portion of the drawing on the screen. I can then import it to Paintshop or any other program from the clip board using (Ctrl+V). By cutting and pasting successive screen prints as transparencies you can quickly build up the full drawing at your chosen scale and then save it as a .jpg. The best bit is that the pieces are already perfectly aligned and match up - down to the individual pixel.
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