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Old Jan 12, 2016, 03:20 PM
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SF701 Build!






Time to put servos. Before I run it I'm going to go to a motorcycle store to find the right chain oil. I'm going to also grease the rods for the wheels. Just because it doesn't come with these things in the beginning I know it doesn't mean you're supposed to leave it.
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Old Jan 12, 2016, 04:40 PM
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I'm going to also grease the rods for the wheels.
????? Do you mean the axles? You do not grease an axle that runs in bearings.

Just checking.
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Old Jan 12, 2016, 05:14 PM
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Remember your proper break in of the motor.
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Old Jan 12, 2016, 07:25 PM
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thx, I put blue locktite in areas and used grease for the axles like vehicle calipers have for the brakes. I will break in the motor after getting it together.




I did it right and cleared the engine. I think it came with the tubes touching the engine. I found out the heat can melt the tubes.
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Old Jan 12, 2016, 10:53 PM
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For the rear.. one side has an offset basically the wheel sits closer to the edge than the other and it's the tires reason.

Is the wheel supposed to be closer to the chain or away?
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Old Jan 12, 2016, 11:44 PM
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For lubing the chain motorcycle lube will be too heavy, pushbike chain lube would be better.
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Old Jan 13, 2016, 01:37 AM
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For lubing the chain motorcycle lube will be too heavy, pushbike chain lube would be better.
what happens if its too heavy?

Also I found the answer for the rear wheel as it should be offset more towards where the mass is, the chain side.

How do you stop the brake line from moving during tension? I see the other ones for the caliper sides have a crimp. There is no crimp in the box and I'm not sure what to do. I tried tightening the bronze hex but it did nothing as it just goes back and the cable doesn't look so good but it's ok.




I had to change the middle servo to go to the opposite side because it seems to be a new SF701 design where the brake is on the left side. I spent like 12 hours straight fixing this but I learned a lot. Also the steering linkage was on the left side so I had to move that to the right.

The brake disks is also circular and not octagonal. It also looks and feels like carbon ceramic.
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Old Jan 13, 2016, 06:18 AM
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For lubing the chain motorcycle lube will be too heavy, pushbike chain lube would be better.
I made a T-connection in the muffler pressure line, leading to the rear sprocket.... like a kind of "Scott-Oiler".... worked OK.

That was 12 years ago on the first version of the SF501
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Old Jan 13, 2016, 08:27 AM
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I made a T-connection in the muffler pressure line, leading to the rear sprocket.... like a kind of "Scott-Oiler".... worked OK.

That was 12 years ago on the first version of the SF501
How do you stop the brake lines from moving when pulled?

I know tightening the brass style coupler isn't the way. I need to crimp it or something..
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Old Jan 13, 2016, 08:58 AM
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..as long as they don't interfere with moving parts, and the brake works, where is the problem?
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Old Jan 13, 2016, 11:00 AM
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How do you stop the brake lines from moving when pulled?

I know tightening the brass style coupler isn't the way. I need to crimp it or something..
Are you saying the brake line moves "out" of the hole (on the brake lever itself) when brakes applied? Or the brake "lines" themselves?

IF you are referring to the brake lines in general moving because of tension, its "OK" for them to move freely. *** Be careful securing the brake line to something as it may cause tension on the steering itself. You want that steering to move freely without being pushed by the steering line "if" the line is zip tied down to something.
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Old Jan 13, 2016, 11:10 AM
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the brake lines have an outer sheath (cover), into which they run.
See how my friend fixed his brakes on the new RG Evolution.
The concept is really the same, I think...

Also check some pics of another SF701, at my RG Evolution thread, page 2...

After you make sure everything works as intended, you cut the excess cables.

Also, notice that it's better to have the steering damper run free and away from anything, like cables or whatever. You definitely NEED it to run free, no matter which side.
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Old Jan 13, 2016, 11:39 AM
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Another consideration if you have not adjusted your brake servo end points yet, is the servo could be over pulling your brake line. If you hear your brake servo surging this is a good sign you should reduce the travel, on road testing will help you find the right amount of travel, it's better to have more travel then not enough. If your brake is carbon it should perform better as it warms up so your servo travel will vary.
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Old Jan 13, 2016, 12:09 PM
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heres what I did to make the line stop


It works great as I have my sub trim on ch3 brake mixed to throttle/brake ch2 at +40 on the iT4 then the rate is 15% and locks up good. Anymore doesn't do anything and it's good the servo isn't overpowered so it doesn't rip the line out of the crimp where the caliper is.

I attached the steering linkage properly too on the otherside.

I still have to find out about the throttle linkage but my RX battery needs to be charged. Dropped to 3V on 1 cell. iT4 alerts me for low batt. : )

I strategically positioned the wiring and the electronics just incase it flips it doesn't disconnect the carb opening control and puts the engine at full open. It happened to me on my Redcat Volcano S30. I went cheap and was trying to find out if I keep running it. I ran it all the time and was wondering when the battery would every run out. I was on stock everything. It went in the water and the whole ground RC vehicle forced learning began.

I was thinking the reason why I like to RC is not just to use it, it's the reward I get out of understanding that I built it after knowing how it works and the hardwork putting it together making sure it works on the ground. If you build it right the only thing you have to worry about is your skills.

I mean, if I put together legos that are ultra slow and felt it was an accomplishment.. realistic the way how to get accomplishment is when it goes high speed dangerous mode otherwise it's a waste of time.

I must have taken the bike 80% apart 20 times yesterday. When you have to adjust or change something in the middle of the bike you have to disassemble many things.

I also learned how the chain works because if it's too tight when it's flat it's ok but when it leans away from the chain side it doesn't freewheel as smooth as leaning towards the chain side. Had to adjust that otherwise it would be slower when turning right than turning left.

Also my transmitter allows me to program ABS with many settings. Because I made the brakes so good it might flip over with PMT200 soft tires. Has this happened to anyone?

When I figured out how to properly setup brakes on my Volcano S30 it did a long stoppie on wet grass!! unintentionally

How to lose bike, drive 60mph then slam brakes and watch it flip over because I had no idea.


and I read everything everyone said, thx : )

I suggest you all change your lines to my method.. trusting just 1 stopper w/ no loop is risky. I tried it with one but it still has play. With 2 it doesn't move at all and is consistent and reliable.
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Old Jan 13, 2016, 03:06 PM
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How do you attach the top rider to the bike? The U things need to be locked in or else it will come out but the faring covers it from being able to be tightened/untightened.
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