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Old Jan 10, 2012, 04:54 PM
Wasserkuppe wannabe
D Hughes's Avatar
Central coast NSW Australia
Joined Aug 2006
108 Posts
Once I had sewn the wire around the perimeter of the sail I then stitched some vertical panel lines and then some other details. I then simply used thread to attach the sails to the yards above and below.

I am generally not happy with the lateen sail. It's actually not the right shape and too small. I will make a new one sometime.

After the sails had been installed there was little stopping me from launching her. There was not much wind on the day i first sailed her ,but as soon as I put her in the water she was straining to get moving. Soon enough she was off and wearing quite nicely. The drop keel is very effective and she does'nt heel much. The rudder is instantly effective and with a little bit of speed she "digs "her bow in a little creating a nice bow wave. (Unfortunately I did'nt have someone to take photos so most of the pics are when she is'nt really moving.)

Soon enough the first major problem reared it's head in the form of tensioning of the braces from the drum winches. As a result of tangles and braces coming off the drum I was pulling the boat out of the water every 5 minutes. The weights alone simply were not enough. They worked to an extent but it became clear that they were'nt providing enough tension consistently.
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Old Jan 10, 2012, 05:17 PM
Wasserkuppe wannabe
D Hughes's Avatar
Central coast NSW Australia
Joined Aug 2006
108 Posts
I asked around for a solution to the tensioning problem. It seems as though there are lots of different ways of doing it and that there is still alot of ongoing experimentation. The idea of using springs appealed to me and also the idea of keeping it simple.

So I went around to industrial estates and electronic repair places looking for an old VCR to cannabolise. (Do you know how hard it is to get a VCR these days?) could not find one. Usually they are a good source of springs.

I was tinkering around in the garage on one of my submarines when I had the idea of using rubber bands. Crude I thought but worth a shot. I could put hooks in the corner of the hull at the other end of the brace run and simply loop some rubber bands over. I fashioned some papreclips to run the braces through. A more elegant solution would be to use springs and rollers but this will come with time if I do still have dramas with the rubber band solution. I finally sourced a supplier of springs. (expensive little critters)

The rubber bands produce good tension. The only concern that I have is the side load that they impose on the winch servo. They are Hitec HS-785HB heavy duty winch drum servo's so Im guessing that they are designed to take loads like this. I'm assuming I would have the same issue with springs anyway.

I don't know if this is the solution to the problem but for now it seems to be working a great deal better than before. I hardly have to touch the servo's.
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Old Jan 10, 2012, 06:55 PM
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kotori87's Avatar
Joined Dec 2006
147 Posts
Sounds like a lot of fun! Great to hear your first voyage went well.

That's an interesting solution you have for tensioning the braces. I wonder if something similar would help with my ships. I used regular servos and the "parallelogram" method that Rbrooks likes, but I still have a slight tension problem.
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Old Jan 11, 2012, 04:05 AM
Wasserkuppe wannabe
D Hughes's Avatar
Central coast NSW Australia
Joined Aug 2006
108 Posts
After gluing the back panel on the side cabin structures could be put in. They are also of balsa as the roof section is of clinker type build. Once I had this in place it would simply be a case of resinning the structure and detailing in the windows. On the original Wappen there were dolphins or some other animal adorning the rear of these side cabins and above then a soldier. Inclosed is a photo showing the interpretation from one model and the main one I am following.

It is interesting to note that of all the models of Wappen that I have seen online they mostly agree to the overall details of the ship but the colour scheme is the main variable.

There is still alot of detailing that I have yet to get around to. I am deliberating about whether to put little lights in where the lanterns go.

The initial sails revealed no leaks. She was pretty much bone dry. Then on about the third or fourth sail she started getting some water in the bilges. I was at a loss at to where she was leaking I looked up at where the stainless keel shaft goes up through the keel and looked at the little "o" ring that sealed the shaft, that seemed tight.

On closer in spection of the keel I could see a thin line, crack along the keel where wood was exposed under the resin. It would seem that the side load of the keel and bulb when heeling was pulling the crack slightly open and allowing water in momentarily. (That's my theory anyway) So I laid up heaps of Fibreglass and resin to strengthen this. I also reinforced the internal tube that the the stainless steel keel support runs up.

Hopefully this should fix it.
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Old Jan 11, 2012, 09:42 AM
SCALE Sailor
JerryTodd's Avatar
United States, MD, Severna Park
Joined Apr 2008
1,552 Posts
The thing with a hull that's wood encased in plastic is that when water gets in, it soaks into the wood inside.

This leads to two major problems:

1. The wood swells and can break open it's encasement, delaminate plywood, and other nasty stuff.
2. It can't dry out and in time will rot leaving a plastic shell with a smelly fungus inside.

Any leaks need to be stopped from outside.
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Old Jan 13, 2012, 09:36 PM
Wasserkuppe wannabe
D Hughes's Avatar
Central coast NSW Australia
Joined Aug 2006
108 Posts
Thanks Jerry,

I have thoroughly resinned the inside of the hull and am also fortunate that at the moment we have 30+ summer conditions here and that tends to dry the boat out reasonably quickly.

I have also laid down several more layers of glass over the affected area. Making sure that the chopped strand wraps around the edge of the keep and reinforces and waterproofs the previous crack along the edge of the keep. It 's pretty thick now and I am confident that this should alleviate the problem here. I could imagine rot causing all sorts of dramas though....

Photos attached show the drop keel to good effect.

Dave
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Old Jan 13, 2012, 10:27 PM
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Jpop Andrew's Avatar
United States, IN, Indianapolis
Joined Nov 2010
257 Posts
She looks great Dave. I like the rubber band and hooks idea.
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Old Jan 21, 2012, 05:04 AM
Wasserkuppe wannabe
D Hughes's Avatar
Central coast NSW Australia
Joined Aug 2006
108 Posts
More pics at the waterfront.

Since I heavily glassed up the keel she has not leaked at all. Moderate wind. I am slowly gettting the "knack" of sailing her.

dave h
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Old Jan 21, 2012, 05:46 AM
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belgium,limburg
Joined Sep 2009
380 Posts
nice pics
although 1 cm deeper in the water is better ,i think
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Old Jan 16, 2013, 02:13 AM
Wasserkuppe wannabe
D Hughes's Avatar
Central coast NSW Australia
Joined Aug 2006
108 Posts
Wappen returns

Hello all,

It's been a long time since I posted here but I thought that Imay as well get someting up. I have pics of Wappen up and running. So I apologise for disrupting the build log.

I have over the last year donelots of modifications to this boat along with 5 or 6 major modifications to the Drum line set up. I have come across a system Ibeleive is used by Yachts and seems to workbest of any system that I have come across.

Other modifications or details include new sails and proper ratlines that look a little more realistic. I have attempted to put lanterns on the back but unfortunately they often break off with the day to day running of the boat. I have also put some detail down on the deck.

With the deep drop keel she would often snag on something in the middle of my little pond. I have since built a shorter keel with slightly more weight. This also makes it easier to launch her in shallow water near the edge. Quite effective.

I also have a youtube clip view here. Unfortunately the resolution is'nt greateven if it was on the latest ipad..

RC Square rigger Wappen von Hamburg 1667 part 1 (2 min 26 sec)


David H
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Old Jan 16, 2013, 07:34 AM
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Jpop Andrew's Avatar
United States, IN, Indianapolis
Joined Nov 2010
257 Posts
Wow thanks for sharing. What a happy sight to see on the pond. Keep Wappen and Scooby safe from those Australian crocodiles
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Old Jan 16, 2013, 10:33 AM
Damp and Dizzy member
Brooks's Avatar
Bozeman, Montana, United States
Joined Aug 2003
3,381 Posts
During the age of Wappen Von Hamburg, the lower sails (courses) would be reefed last. So, your taking in the upper sails 1st, as the wind picks up, is the historically correct way :-).

Later, in the 1800's, the process would have been reef the courses and let the topsails drive the hull. You see this in contemporary paintings of clipper ships, for instance. In large waves, when the hull is in the trough, the courses get partially blanketed by the wave top. This led to flapping of the sail, and excess rolling. So, sailors started to let higher sails, which would not be blanketed, do the work. By the time of the grain ships (1900-1940), the lower topsails would be left up the longest. I've sailed in scale gales under topsails and it works just like for a real ship :-).

Wappen von Hamburg is Very beautiful, as everyone has said :-)
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Old Oct 28, 2013, 03:51 AM
Wasserkuppe wannabe
D Hughes's Avatar
Central coast NSW Australia
Joined Aug 2006
108 Posts
More video of Wappen von Hamburg

Hi all,

I have some video of the Wappen von Hamburg. Taken during the central coast Subregatta that I attend ( I also do subs).

Enjoy.
DH NON SUB (2 min 59 sec)


David h
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