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Old Aug 24, 2014, 05:52 AM
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Originally Posted by finguz View Post
Nice!

What do you mean, did you have to grind down the backside of the driveccups to make them shorter?

Otherwise, you didn't have to mod the mounting blocks or anything?
The drive cups have to be shortened, and drilled from 5mm to 6mm. I just used pinion shaft cups, and ground down the shafts.

I didnt want to grind the shafts, but didnt want to search out diff cups, and I smoked 2 drill bits trying to drill them out. They used a hardened steel insert. I have a thread on Ultimate R/C forum. Google my user name with tmaxx diff....it should come up
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Old Aug 24, 2014, 06:06 PM
FPV Noob KD0VMK
United States, MO, Platte City
Joined Jun 2012
677 Posts
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Originally Posted by neeme55 View Post
I actually found that post linked a page or two back, but unfortunately it's not very specific. Which pin on the chip did he attach to? Each one has 4 pins where it looks like he soldered the wire, but the 4 pins don't have continuity to each other...so it must matter which one you solder to.

I'm also curious how he knew which phase was faulty. I can't find any difference between the 3 phases (well, I CAN find a difference, but some have varying resistances and some are direct shorts, and i'm not sure what they're supposed to be). How do I know which one is bad?

If I use his picture as a guide, and assume he soldered to the pin farthest from the phase, then it won't do me any good....on my ESC, that pin already has direct continuity with that phase wire.
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Old Aug 24, 2014, 10:08 PM
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United States, NJ, Chatham
Joined Mar 2010
296 Posts
I locked the rear and center with 300,000 wt oil and left the front open with just silicone grease and she drives great. It's very balanced at speed.
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Old Aug 24, 2014, 11:39 PM
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Originally Posted by ck986 View Post
I locked the rear and center with 300,000 wt oil and left the front open with just silicone grease and she drives great. It's very balanced at speed.
Should work good, I had 300k in my center, then the spiders shredded in the rear.. I'm using 100k with the tmaxx rear diff, shouldn't have anymore probs. unless I install the 4s..
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Old Aug 25, 2014, 07:22 PM
Don't take any wooden nickels
finguz's Avatar
United States, CA, San Diego
Joined Mar 2012
2,244 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by timritchieblue View Post
The drive cups have to be shortened, and drilled from 5mm to 6mm. I just used pinion shaft cups, and ground down the shafts.

I didnt want to grind the shafts, but didnt want to search out diff cups, and I smoked 2 drill bits trying to drill them out. They used a hardened steel insert. I have a thread on Ultimate R/C forum. Google my user name with tmaxx diff....it should come up
I'll look it up.
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Old Aug 27, 2014, 12:32 PM
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United States, SC, Irmo
Joined Sep 2011
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Got my NC Trooper today. Looks very nice. I love the simple chassis design, looks like it would be a breeze to work on. SCT's are huge! This is my biggest 1/10 scale car for sure! Love the adjustable body mounts too for the future. Diffs have thick oil so there is good resistanc already, going to leave them alone for now. A couple concerns. The steering linkage has a lot of play, very lousy plastic parts. Any upgrades for this? And there is a lot of freeplay before the center diff engages. I can spin the spur almost 45 degrees before something "grabs" Is that normal? Will create lots of shock on punches.
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Old Aug 27, 2014, 03:49 PM
Don't take any wooden nickels
finguz's Avatar
United States, CA, San Diego
Joined Mar 2012
2,244 Posts
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Originally Posted by shahram72 View Post
Got my NC Trooper today. Looks very nice. I love the simple chassis design, looks like it would be a breeze to work on. SCT's are huge! This is my biggest 1/10 scale car for sure! Love the adjustable body mounts too for the future. Diffs have thick oil so there is good resistanc already, going to leave them alone for now. A couple concerns. The steering linkage has a lot of play, very lousy plastic parts. Any upgrades for this? And there is a lot of freeplay before the center diff engages. I can spin the spur almost 45 degrees before something "grabs" Is that normal? Will create lots of shock on punches.
Yes that's normal.
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Old Aug 27, 2014, 04:47 PM
What is a controlled landing?
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United States, WI, Sun Prairie
Joined Feb 2013
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Stock up on dogbones. lol
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Old Aug 27, 2014, 07:02 PM
FPV Noob KD0VMK
United States, MO, Platte City
Joined Jun 2012
677 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by shahram72 View Post
Got my NC Trooper today. Looks very nice. I love the simple chassis design, looks like it would be a breeze to work on. SCT's are huge! This is my biggest 1/10 scale car for sure! Love the adjustable body mounts too for the future. Diffs have thick oil so there is good resistanc already, going to leave them alone for now. A couple concerns. The steering linkage has a lot of play, very lousy plastic parts. Any upgrades for this? And there is a lot of freeplay before the center diff engages. I can spin the spur almost 45 degrees before something "grabs" Is that normal? Will create lots of shock on punches.
All normal. The trooper is a sloppy truck all the way around. When you offer a brushless short course truck in the $150 range, you have to cut corners somewhere.

My diffs just came with a light coat of grease on them. Are yours actually full of oil? That would be an improvement.
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Old Aug 29, 2014, 12:03 PM
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Estonia, Lääne-Viru County, Väike-Maarja
Joined Oct 2012
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Ready for test drive
Turnigy Trooper SCT 4x4 1/10 for FPV (1 min 2 sec)
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Old Aug 30, 2014, 03:39 PM
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Estonia, Lääne-Viru County, Väike-Maarja
Joined Oct 2012
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Today was a test drive
Turnigy Trooper SCT 4x4 1/10 first FPV (3 min 55 sec)


Turnigy Trooper SCT 4x4 1/10 FPV onboard video (7 min 32 sec)
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Old Aug 30, 2014, 04:19 PM
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Germany, NRW, DU
Joined Jun 2014
12 Posts
Wow, 790m, I've reached 150m using the same transmitter, but with dipoles. Which antenna do you use?
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Old Aug 30, 2014, 04:54 PM
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Estonia, Lääne-Viru County, Väike-Maarja
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I use Cloverleafs
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Last edited by neeme55; Aug 31, 2014 at 09:44 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old Aug 30, 2014, 07:26 PM
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United States, NJ, Chatham
Joined Mar 2010
296 Posts
I have been a big proponent and supporter of the trooper but after bashing my trooper side by side with a slash, I think its inferior. The slash can take such a beating it was driving like new after a week of bashing. My trooper kept going but was tired. The trooper was faster with the 3674 motor and 3s but just could not take the week of abuse. The axles were all u or s shaped the center cf brace had cracked (half had fallen off) and the chassis was slightly deformed. Unfortunately my losi scte fell out of the competition early on due to the motor pinion falling off and i lost the shaft adapter.
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Last edited by ck986; Aug 30, 2014 at 07:54 PM.
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Old Aug 31, 2014, 12:10 AM
FPV Noob KD0VMK
United States, MO, Platte City
Joined Jun 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ck986 View Post
I have been a big proponent and supporter of the trooper but after bashing my trooper side by side with a slash, I think its inferior. The slash can take such a beating it was driving like new after a week of bashing. My trooper kept going but was tired. The trooper was faster with the 3674 motor and 3s but just could not take the week of abuse. The axles were all u or s shaped the center cf brace had cracked (half had fallen off) and the chassis was slightly deformed. Unfortunately my losi scte fell out of the competition early on due to the motor pinion falling off and i lost the shaft adapter.
I agree, the trooper probably isn't as robust as a Slash, but you have to take price into account. For $150 (recently $129.99 for the NitroCircus Basher in the US Warehouse), you get a 4x4 short course truck with a brushless motor. The cheapest slash you can buy is over $200, brushed, and is 2wd. If you want a 4x4 brushless slash, you're looking at around $400.

So, there is a $250 difference between a trooper, and a comparable 4x4 brushless slash. Even after you buy a new ESC, batteries, and radio for the trooper (which it will need), you're still looking at well over a $150 difference. How long can you keep a trooper running with $150? That buys you a whole lot of dogbones, since they are $3.61 for 2 of them. That upper chassis plate is $5. The entire aluminum lower chassis is $11.50. Heck, that $150 buys you a whole other truck to use as spare parts!

While I agree that the slash is the better truck, I think the troopers real advantage is value. When you take price into account, the trooper is really in a league of its own. Nothing else even comes close. I you really want to put a huge power setup in it, and run it on 3s or 4s power, the trooper probably isn't for you. Go ahead and spend $500 for a serious setup. For everyone else though, the trooper holds up pretty well. Parts are cheap, and most things can be bent back into shape while you're waiting for your $10 parts from china to show up.
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