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Old Jul 01, 2012, 10:28 AM
Right Rudder
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USA, FL, Orlando
Joined Nov 2010
8,893 Posts
Mini-HowTo
Front Disk Brakes - 2003 Toyota Camry

Hello Good People!

For those of you out there that might have a young Daughter or Son in their early 20's with a heavy foot, well you came to the right place as I had to give my daughter's 2003 Toyota Camry LE a front disk brake job. This consisted of replacing the Disk Rotors and Brake pads with top quality replacements.

Of course, I certainly can NOT blame my daughter for the misfortune of replacing the brakes before they really needed to be done as there was still a good amount of material left on the brake pads, however, whomever that performed "or" maintained this car before our ownership (we are 2nd owners) applied some sort of lubrication to the shim plates and some of the lube got to the rotor surface and crystalized the surface causing a less than ideal braking power and made the brakes squeal when really hot.

As I understand, lubricating shim plates are a common practice but, my mechanic does not recommend and the replacement pads do not require any lubrication what-so-ever. My daughter has driven for over 2,000 miles and the Camry stops smooth and strong everytime and without any squeals. The Lubrication Bag is for applying some lightly on the threads of the bolts that hold assemblies and top clip guides for the pads and not the back plate piece of the pads.

The new Brake Pads were purchased from Advance-Discount Auto Parts and the selection was Wearever Platinum Premium Ceramic Brake Pads.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...RPBRCOAMS_____



The New Brake Disk Rotors were purchased at the same location and they are the Wearever Brake Rotors.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...RPDRUMAMS_____



Here are a few Pictures.........

Removing Caliber Assembly from hub:


Lightly Tapping out the Disk Rotor:


Residue Grease from the old Brake Pads:


Crystalization of Disk Rotors due to Grease contamination:


Cleaning axle and all associated brake dust residue:










Carefully pushing the Caliber Piston in the assembly using an old pad and C-Clamp Tool:


New Brake Pads and Cleaning Brake Pad Carrier:


Fast Foward.....New Rotors and Brake Pads all assembled:


Closeup:


A happy Daughter!
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Last edited by PittSpecial; Jul 01, 2012 at 10:46 AM.
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Old Jul 01, 2012, 10:35 AM
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ian145's Avatar
United States, CA, Santa Cruz
Joined Nov 2010
509 Posts
I just recently replaced my brake pads and front rotors with what I thought were great quality brake pads, but then I took my car out to a racetrack Every time I slammed on the breaks on track, I could smell the pads burning! Also, when I got off track, the wheels were covered in black dust from burning brake pads . I guess brake pads made for the street just don't work too well on a race track.
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Old Jul 01, 2012, 10:39 AM
Right Rudder
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USA, FL, Orlando
Joined Nov 2010
8,893 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ian145 View Post
I just recently replaced my brake pads and front rotors with what I thought were great quality brake pads, but then I took my car out to a racetrack Every time I slammed on the breaks on track, I could smell the pads burning! Also, when I got off track, the wheels were covered in black dust from burning brake pads . I guess brake pads made for the street just don't work too well on a race track.
There are special and of course more expensive brake rotors and brake pads for the "Race Track" and my thread blog is not discussing anything for "Racing" except normal driving.

Good day.
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Old Jul 01, 2012, 03:49 PM
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jim e's Avatar
USA, MA, Northfield
Joined Sep 2005
627 Posts
bleeding the calipers

Hope that you bled the calipers or even better bled the rear brake cylinders/calipers and then the front in order to : flush out normal debris that accumulates and to remove some of the brake fluid (that gradually absorbs water). I try to do that once a year, or every 10,000 miles or when i rotate the tires. Do not ever have to replace parts other than pads/linings.
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Old Jul 01, 2012, 06:55 PM
Right Rudder
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USA, FL, Orlando
Joined Nov 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jim e View Post
Hope that you bled the calipers or even better bled the rear brake cylinders/calipers and then the front in order to : flush out normal debris that accumulates and to remove some of the brake fluid (that gradually absorbs water). I try to do that once a year, or every 10,000 miles or when i rotate the tires. Do not ever have to replace parts other than pads/linings.
Very good recommendation. It was not necessary since we had this done after we got the car recently because the fluid was very dark. The Fluid was very clear at the time we did the brake job so, perhaps next time, however, yes this is something that needs to be done normally when doing a brake job as Hydraulic fluid certainly attracts water molecules.
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