Originally Posted by saabguyspg

YES I agree and bought one for this very reason... but I can't get anywhere with any of it...

Jail broken iphone will not work because it is not iphone 4
Table will not work on it's own (I need a router which I can get to be "seen" but not heard )

just very frusterating... I was going to be a distributor for this but this setup needs to have more options for people who don't want to mess around with all this.

they also supplied a serial cable for direct connection... serial? 1985 wants it's cable back hahah..

Steve

Originally Posted by saabguyspg

ok I got it!!! very happy!!!

So for anyone in Canada using a Telus Router you may encounter this issue too.

Everything is working 100%

Steve

Glad you got it sorted out.

Once you get over this hurdle, which generally is an easy one, and should not be a problem, you will find things work well.

What you have experienced is a good reason for using the recommended TP-Link routers or an old Linksys wrt 54G router, and another reason is that you can change the antennas on these routers.

I am now looking at changing the standard antenna on the router.

By the way, for those looking at doing the same, here is an interesting article http://rcexplorer.se/Educational/gain/gain.html .... unfortunately I thought it would be simple. Just go from the standard 3dBi to 8dBi and increase you range by +/- 2 plus, but it is not so simple as you will see in the article.

Cheers
Rob

honestly though this is way more complex than it needs to be.

Bluetooth would be easier and get you just as much range.

Steve

Originally Posted by saabguyspg

honestly though this is way more complex than it needs to be.

Bluetooth would be easier and get you just as much range.

Steve

LOL ... Actually, for me, Bluetooth would have been a problem...I have never had much success with the pairing of devices, and still have a few Bluetooth controls that I cannot link.

Not sure about the range. I thought it was less than a wifi system, and I think the wifi speed is faster.

Rob

Originally Posted by saabguyspg

honestly though this is way more complex than it needs to be.

Bluetooth would be easier and get you just as much range.

Steve

bluetooth is good for maybe 30ft, and it doesn't penetrate obstacles as well as wifi.

old blue tooth yes... but I can say from testing when streaming audio I can stream twice the distance on the new bluetooth protocols as I can with wifi... and that is through the house walls it's amazing.

we used to use bluetooth with Mikrokopter and it was awesome!

Steve

Gothelirc just told me he would replace my system. Nice and good shop doing business with. Awesome support.

Speaking of awesome support.. Zero UAV tech support is FANTASTIC...

Steve

I just want to advice that COM1 can only do firmware update and read data... it can not transfer parameter or update parameter.

Com1 = Firmware upgrade, read data
Com3 = Read, Write

So if you want to use computer to config your set up, plug it to Com3 port.

Originally Posted by cryhavoc38

I guess I didn't realize the data link could plug right into the laptop via usb.

I'll have to place an order for one as I'd much rather use the PC based ground station!

You still have those "blemished" data links for $190?

Yes.

Originally Posted by saabguyspg

Speaking of awesome support.. Zero UAV tech support is FANTASTIC...

Steve

Do tell!

I hope someone can see this post, and even quote it so others can see it so I can get some help due to my current 'restricted' account (see previous posts for reason for this restriction. )

I have a 10A 5/6V UBEC to power my servos on my gimbal. What I need to know is have I've got it correct? This diagram is how I've set it up, but I seem to get no response from the FC to the servos other than after I hear the motors power up (tones) the servos try to go to neutral, and roll is full lock. Even when I remove the belt and gearing from the servos, there's no movement of them when moving the copter around a roll and tilt axis. The Roll servo spins continuously. Is there somewhere in the GCS to enable gimbal on/off, or is this on/off actuated with another channel?
PLEASE HELP.

Hahaha, I feel like the short person in a crowd that no one sees.

Hello Helloooo down here everyone one

meant to reply to you earlier.
you don't need to run power to both servo's.

just take the red and black wire out of your Ubec, remove the red and black wire from one of your esc's and plug the Ubec's red and black into the esc's servo plug.

This will provide power to your gimbal servo's.

BUT, yes, your diagram will work if you want to run two sets of power leads to your servo's.

Originally Posted by cryhavoc38

meant to reply to you earlier.
you don't need to run power to both servo's.

just take the red and black wire out of your Ubec, remove the red and black wire from one of your esc's and plug the Ubec's red and black into the esc's servo plug.

This will provide power to your gimbal servo's.

BUT, yes, your diagram will work if you want to run two sets of power leads to your servo's.

Thanks. Spent several hours with a UBEC last night only to realize it came DOA. Lucky o purchased two.

Has anyone out there had any difficulties in setting 'stuff' up via the PC ? I have read the manual inside out a number of times now and it is like wading through treacle. It appears as though the manual was written for Android phone and Ipad based equipment and definately not for PCs. I do not want to purchase extra, and perhaps unnecessary, equipment. I have on a few occasions arrived at ureka moments (aha, thats how that it is set up) and then looked into the manual to check only to find out that it does not realy reflect the process that I just carried out. I also still cannot set up the magnetic compass...I have followed the manual instruction word-for-word a number of times and I just do not get the expected results. Anyone able to help me out here ?

Originally Posted by david.scarbrow

Has anyone out there had any difficulties in setting 'stuff' up via the PC ? I have read the manual inside out a number of times now and it is like wading through treacle. It appears as though the manual was written for Android phone and Ipad based equipment and definately not for PCs. I do not want to purchase extra, and perhaps unnecessary, equipment. I have on a few occasions arrived at ureka moments (aha, thats how that it is set up) and then looked into the manual to check only to find out that it does not realy reflect the process that I just carried out. I also still cannot set up the magnetic compass...I have followed the manual instruction word-for-word a number of times and I just do not get the expected results. Anyone able to help me out here ?

Hi David

Good to see you here and glad you bought the YS-X6. I originally started to use the PC software, and I stopped because at that time it was easier to use Bluestacks (Android Emulator) that the PC Software, however, from what I understand it is a lot easier to use now.

So think of using Bluestacks and the Android App.

The compass calibration is one of the most important calibrations to get right and let me tell you I have done it about 100+ times so far, because i had some problems with my GPS and it was not doing what it should have been doing, but that is all resolved now.

Steps for Compass Calibration

1. Get Compass Calibration screen up.
2. Select Hor calibration. then OK. then hold Multirotor level and get the blue LED light on. Now turn slowly clockwise 2-3 times in one spot ensuring the light remains on at all times.
3. Select Vert Calibration. Then OK. Point the front of the Multi down and get the blue LED light on. Now turn slowly clockwise 2-3 times in one spot ensuring the light remains on at all times.
4. Select save alignment. Then OK

And you should see 2 lovely, and hopefully round circles almost on top of each other.

Cheers
Rob