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Old Jul 05, 2014, 12:16 AM
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New Product
E-Flite Allusive 2.2m ARF

Allusive 2.2m ARF

Allusive™ 2.2m ARF by E-flite (2 min 6 sec)

Nuremberg 2014 Product Preview - E-flite Allusive™ 2.2m ARF (7 min 58 sec)


Overview

The E-flite® Allusive™ 2.2 m ARF sailplane is an interesting breed of thermal soaring ship that’s both a capable glider and aerobatic sport model. Sleek from nose to tail and tip-to-tip, its wings are a fully-balsa sheeted foam core for a strong structure that naturally maintains airfoil integrity. The removable surfaces of the V-tail are a fully sheeted built-up structure and, like the wings, are covered with Hangar 9® UltraCote® covering in a high-contrast scheme. The ailerons and ruddervators feature film-hinging that’s sealed at the factory.

Thanks to a front fuse diameter of 40mm, a broad range of popular brushless outrunner motors like the E-flite Power 15 fits inside and has ample cooling. Just a 3S 2200mAh Li-Po flight pack is required for catching a thermal or grooving around. When equipped with a 4-channel radio with V-tail mix, the Allusive 2.2 m sailplane is the most fun you’ll have eluding the end of a great flying day.

Key Features

Streamlined fiberglass fuselage with a painted finish that’s ready for your electronics
Four-channel control with V-tail, ailerons and throttle
Large canopy provides easy access to factory-installed plywood mounting points
Two-piece, fully-balsa sheeted, foam-core, plug-in wings
Built-up, balsa plug-in stabilizers
Solid carbon fiber wing and stabilizer joiners
Ready for installation of an E-flite® Power 15 outrunner
Complete, high-quality hardware package
Fiberglass control horns and pre-bent steel pushrods
Factory finished, film hinging on the ailerons and ruddervators
High-contrast, genuine Hangar 9® UltraCote® covering

Product Specifications
Wingspan: 87.5 in (2.20 m)
Overall Length: 43.0 in (1.10 m)
Wing Area: 546 sq. in. (35.2 sq. dm.)
Flying Weight: 48 oz (1.40 kg)
Motor Size: Power 15
Radio: 4+ channel radio system with V-tail mixing
Servos: (2) wing servos, (2) mini servos
Trim Scheme Colors: UltraCote White (U870), Pearl Charcoal (U846), Dark Yellow (U889)
CG (center of gravity): 2.5 in (65mm) back from the leading edge at fuselage
Prop Size: 12 x 8 folding
Spinner Size: 1.5 in (40mm)
Speed Control : 40-amp brushless
Recommended Battery: 11.1V 3S 2200mAh 30C LiPo
Flaps: No
Control Throw (Ailerons): 15 degrees up/down
Control Throw (Elevator): 15 degrees up/down
Control Throw (Rudder): 15 degrees right/left
Minimum Age Recommendation: 14 years
Experience Level: Intermediate
Recommended Environment: Outdoor
Assembly Time: 3-5 Hours
Is Assembly Required: Yes

Needed to Complete

- 4+ Channel Transmitter and Receiver Radio System (AR6260)
- (2) Mini Servos, (A5030) or (A5040)
- (2) Thin-Wing Servos, (A7020)
- 15-Size Brushless Outrunner Motor (Power 15)
- 40mm Spinner with 12x8 folding propeller blades
- 40-Amp Lite Pro SB Brushless ESC
- 11.1V 3S 2200mAh LiPo flight battery
- Charger for flight battery
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Old Jul 05, 2014, 01:03 AM
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Maiden Flight;

My Allusive maiden flight was a pleasant surprise, no trim needed and the plane performed with flawless precision. The first flight was performed with a 2200 3S 30C which flew very nice but the second flight used a 2200 4S 30C and wow she came alive with enough speed and vigor to start my adrenaline pumping! I also setup spoilerons with the Radio to help slow the plane for landing, the plane holds plenty of inertia so landing could require some room but spoilerons provided just enough slowing for a safe easy landing.
.
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Old Jul 05, 2014, 04:58 AM
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This looks like more of a warm liner and your report suggests that you fly it that way, which is fine. And it looks like it would be a lot of fun on the slope.

Are you also a thermal soaring pilot? If so I would be interested in experience working thermals.

At 12.6 oz/sq. ft. the wing loading is to the higher end of thermal gliders. Doesn't mean you can't thermal soar with this ship, just means that I would expect to need pretty strong lift. I would expect it to be good in windy conditions.

My Supra Pro, 3.4 meter wing, is about 8oz/sq ft and my e Supra Pro is about 9.3 oz/sq ft.

The Mystique, not a light weight, is around 11.


I look forward to all your reports and those of others.
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Old Jul 05, 2014, 03:42 PM
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I'm no expert on finding or working thermals but since I experienced the pure silent beauty of Soaring at Harris Hill Gliderport Watkins Glen NY, Sailplanes have been my favorite type of RC Aircraft. I also enjoy a large variety of model aircraft and the Allusive quality is exceptional, she performed extremely well on the first 9 flights and the plane is simply gorgeous! My current location often has high winds which don't allow RC Pilots to fly most types of planes, we find Gliders and various flying Wing types do best, in addition our 100 degree weather presents a challenge for keeping electronics cool.

Yes the Allusive could be referred to as a Warm Liner or Sport Glider, here is a video which displays the planes performance at high speed, the Pilot is most likely running a 4 cell in this video.
E-Flite Allusive At The Beach (4 min 2 sec)
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Old Jul 05, 2014, 09:59 PM
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I just assembled my Allusive today. It looks great, but assembly was a bit more of a PITA than I expected.

As others have commented, you can get the ESC under the battery tray through the servo opening. I didn't know this. I didn't want to pull the servos out again when I realized. I used a roto-zip to open up the center hole to get the ESC through there.

The tail surface pushrods are too stiff. They run relatively smoothly in the guide tubes, but there's a lot of friction once they're exited their slots at the tail. They're being deflected too much exiting the slots. The slots need to be opened up a bit.

Also, on my model, the pushrods came inserted in the fuselage with the threaded ends inside at the front. The assembly instructions show them and the clevises at the rear. I had a hell of a time feeding the pushrod in from the back when I went to reverse them. I had considered setting the linkage up backwards from the instructions with the bent end at the tail and the clevises at the servos. I'm glad I didn't, because the clevises are longer than the "L" bend and pushrod retainer. Which leads me to issue #2. With the servos installed in the plane as pictured, the distance between the servo arm and the rear former that holds the pushrod tubes is narrow. On my model, the tubes protruded from the former by about 10mm, and with the retainer on the pushrod, the servo couldn't move far in the direction of the former before the back end of the pushrod retainer made contact with the protruding pushrod guide tube. I had to reach in with an Xacto and cut the guide tubes off flush with the former to get sufficient travel in that direction. If I'd gone with the clevises on the servos instead, the servo would not be able to move very far towards the back of the plane with the servos installed as shown (output end towards rear).

My pushrods were actually quite a bit longer than they needed to be. I was annoyed by this because I had to cut them. In hindsight, I'm thinking that this was intentional, that the servos should really go in the tray with the output arm closer to the front of the plane than the rear. This would also have eliminated the clearance issue by moving the output arm further away from that rear former. And the pushrod has to deflect quite a bit when the servo arm is centered. Moving the arm further away from the rear former and guide tube would relieve a lot of stress.

You need to be really sure the motor wires aren't going to rub on the back side of the motor. I routed my wires along the inside of the nose of the fuselage and hit them with some CA to keep them there.

The screws that come with the recommended Spektrum wing servo are too long by about 1mm or so and will come through the top of the wing if you don't cut them off before screwing them in.

Assembled with all recommended parts, battery as far back as possible (limited by servos) the plane is nose heavy by a fair amount.

I haven't flown it yet. I probably will as-is, but I'm likely to get some threaded rod and fix the problems with the way the tail surfaces are set up, turn the servos around the other way and go with a slightly smaller diameter wire.
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Old Jul 06, 2014, 12:11 AM
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Rocketsled, I had most of the same issues on my build except I used a Castle Edge Lite 50 which I was able to get through the opening in the battery tray. I had one stiff pushrod and the other moved freely, I was not able to remedy the problem since it was inside the fuselage, the A5040 Servos seem to have enough torque to overcome the stiffness but combine the air pressure of a high speed dive and the servos may not be able to overcome the combined resistance. My CG ended up a bit nose heavy so I drilled a 1/4 inch hole in the tail and added some shot and glue. Flight testing has revealed a new concern, the fuselage completely lacks any inlet or exit air vents for cooling, the performance with a 4 cell is nothing short of stellar but the E-flight Power 15 motor is getting seriously overheated with our 100 degree weather and my aggressive flying techniques, the 40mm BB Spinner I used does not have a hole in the center either so I have ordered the Allusive Spinner to see if it improves airflow into the motor but we still need to have an exit vent to allow airflow through the fuselage and keep the electronics from overheating. I'm hoping Peter Goldsmith and the E-flight Team are aware of these issues and working to remediate what I believe is an awesome plane.
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Last edited by Guardian7; Jul 07, 2014 at 02:58 AM.
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Old Jul 06, 2014, 12:46 PM
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Guardian. Looking at the shot of the tail servos, I see you have the same problem as me. Particularly the right-hand servo in the image. The pushrod guide tube protrudes so far out from that rear former that the servo arm can't move very far in that direction before it gets jammed. Don't you get interference that limits travel when the left-hand ruddervator deflects down?

IMO, e-Flite, the servos should really go the other way around so the servo arm is as far away from that former as possible.
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Old Jul 06, 2014, 06:27 PM
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Maidened my Allusive this morning, tiny control throws are plenty at the tail. The stabs are large enough not to need huge amounts of throw. I was skeptical too, cut out the gauge and ignored what it recommended. I had more than enough control throw even at slow speeds. I need much more expo (as in more than zero) to fly this guy smoothly. I usually don't fiddle with hi/low rates as I fly gliders but with this fast ship it's going to be necessary.
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Old Jul 06, 2014, 11:34 PM
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Rocketsled, the servo arm was hitting the right side tube and had to be shaved a bit with my Dremel, it looks messy but has enough clearance now, setting the throws at 15 degrees helped limit the travel enough to prevent the left side tube from hitting. this was my last minute crappy fix so I could get flying. What I find interesting is that the battery compartment photo I pulled off the E-flite website shows the servos installed reverse from what the manual shows?

Builder Note #1; Builders should shave 1/8" to 3/16" off the protruding push rod "Tubes" prior to installing push rods and servos to prevent servo arm push rod retainers from hitting the tubes, or flip the servos opposite from what the manual shows.

Builder Note #2; Builders should install cooling vents to prevent heat buildup inside the fuselage causing damage to electronic components, this should include inlet and outlet vents to allow air flow through the fuselage. Heat buildup will vary depending on component selection, battery type, and geographic climate, if you plan to run 4 cell batteries this mod is highly recommended! Cooling vents can be purchased from EspritModel, Parkflyerplastics, etc. or you can craft your own vents. I have added these to other models by simply drilling a 1/4" to 3/8" hole on each side of the fuselage adjacent to the motor and glue the vent over the hole, this directs cooling air against the sides of the motor, you will need to do the same on the tail section to exhaust heated air, a vent over the rear hole is optional and would need to face rearward. http://www.espritmodel.com/cooling-i...plastic-1.aspx
http://parkflyerplastics.com/cart/
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Old Jul 07, 2014, 02:07 AM
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Jasong911, my throws were initially more than the recommended 15 degrees which could make high speed handling touchy and put extra stress on the airframe during high speed maneuvers. I set the maximum throw at 15 degrees with the radio set to high rates or D/R = 100 for Aileron, Elevator, and Rudder. I have a 30% Aileron to Rudder Mix and I'm using the Spoileron Wing Type setup with the 3 position flap switch with good results, let me know if you want more details on the setup.

My Spektrum DX7S is using the following D/R Expo settings for Aileron, Elevator, and Rudder.

Low
D/R = 80
Expo = 20

High
D/R = 100
Expo = 10
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Old Jul 07, 2014, 10:10 PM
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Another good source of air scoops can be had with a plastic spoon. Cut the spoon in half width-wise (not the axis running along the length of the handle), take the piece that's not attached to the handle, turn it around to face in to the airflow and glue in place over a hole in the fuselage. Ends up looking a lot like the Esprit scoop, but for essentially zero $.
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Old Jul 07, 2014, 11:29 PM
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Rocketsled, what a great idea, I'm keeping my eye out for some really strong plastic spoons that wont crack or break.

Thanks man!
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Old Jul 08, 2014, 02:28 PM
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Anyone have any experience cutting exhaust holes in canopies? I think I would like the air to exit there instead of the tail. Got a hot motor now that the temps are above 90.
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Old Jul 08, 2014, 02:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jasong911 View Post
Anyone have any experience cutting exhaust holes in canopies? I think I would like the air to exit there instead of the tail. Got a hot motor now that the temps are above 90.
90F, that is nothing. Practically room temperature.

90C, that is HOT!
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Old Jul 08, 2014, 03:26 PM
FastEddie123
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Originally Posted by Guardian7 View Post
Rocketsled, what a great idea, I'm keeping my eye out for some really strong plastic spoons that wont crack or break.

Thanks man!
Just my 2c - I'd just go turbo spinner and be done with it - nice and streamlined. Take care if using scoops they don't hit the folding prop. .....(ps it's not an Allusive in the pic. )- e123
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