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Old Jun 20, 2015, 11:12 AM
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Peter Rake - Sopwith 1 & 1/2 Strutter

Having a crack at building this. Haven't built for an age, so hoping it will turn out OK and with 2 pairs of wings and not 4 for one side (oh well, if that happens I'll just have to do another one! Slightly confused at first having cut out the ribs and realising there appeared to be no top spars. Thanks JIMA and others for putting me right on this. Incidently weighed the paper templates that I peeled off the parts after cutting them - a little over 6g so far and some like fus.sides still have template on. Have had a few snags sourcing bass wood, but that should be resolved now - seems to be used by lots of crafters and makers of dolls houses.
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Old Jun 20, 2015, 12:45 PM
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You had me worried then, I thought I'd missed the spars from the top wing. Then I realised what you meant. Top surface spars are a pet hate of mine because they show where no spar should be visible. For some reason I find slight elliptical dihedral less offensive on the eye than a visible top spar.
At this size, and bigger, not having a top spar has never proved a problem on my models. However, don't let that stop you if you feel the need for them. I promise not to be offended.

Pete
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Old Jun 20, 2015, 01:07 PM
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Hi Pete,
I'm more than happy to make as is. Ribs look much tidier, and probably stronger without being notched for top spars and underside spars are plenty deep enough. Sorry to have given you a fright! contemplating cutting ply parts out next without splitting it and some look a bit fiddly. Whilst on about ribs though - is it possible to iron on rib tapes over wing covering as you would solar tex on a larger model or does it look odd at this scale and not work with the lighter weight coverings? - probably getting rather ahead of myself here.

Many thanks for your input and interesting to hear your thoughts on this.

Vic
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Old Jun 20, 2015, 10:25 PM
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Welcome aboard Vic. Nice to see you found our forum.

It is very possible to simulate rib tapes on a model this size. Many have done it before. It is never too soon to be planning ahead and asking questions. One we may ask you before advising too much further on rib tapes is what you intend to use for covering.

Jim
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Old Jun 21, 2015, 03:40 AM
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At this size and, as Jim suggests, depending on covering choice, that micro masking tape makes pretty good rib tapes. Or just narrow strips cut from the cheap cream coloured stuff.
You can, of course use strips of covering ironed/doped on but it would be very subtle at the thickness we're talking here.

Pete
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Old Jun 21, 2015, 11:53 AM
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covering

Hello Jim & Pete

Well, as no progress again today, it looks as if I have plenty of time to think about covering. Would like to use the lightest weight, heatshrink, iron on adhesive covering that I can find. So far think the best might be SoLite - but not sure if this comes in likely possible finishing colours of PC10,12 or linen. Any suggestions gratefully received as only covering material I'm familiar with is solartex which is probably going to be too heavy.
Regards to all
Vic
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Old Jun 21, 2015, 01:15 PM
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Coverlite/litespan
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Old Jun 22, 2015, 11:01 AM
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have found the following re covering materials

re weights of covering material.

Litespan 30g per sq m (all others are weighted to in g per sq metre.)*
Polyester supershrink gloss 60-80g (as on Blackburn models)
Polyester supershrink matt 60-75g
Profilm/Oracover - haven't been able to find a weight for this
Solarfilm 55-60g
Solar tex 85-98g
Solite 20g.**


*requires balsaloc adhesive.
**rather opaque looking
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Old Jun 22, 2015, 11:03 AM
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Litespan looking most favourable for reasons of colour range and weight etc.
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Old Jun 22, 2015, 12:36 PM
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Litespan is what I use on most of my models, even bigger ones than this.

Rather than apply Balsaloc to the framework I apply it in a thin coat to the entire sheet of Litespan using a sponge. Allow it to dry and then use like any other iron on covering. It doesn't add enough weight to cause problems.
I've seen reports of something called Mod Podge being a good, cheaper alternative to Balsaloc, but haven't tried it yet.

So-Lite is just too prone to puncture for my liking and the more normal heat shrink coverings are a bit aggressive. Avoid Solartex like the plague. Great stuff to use but WAY too heavy.

Pete
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Old Jun 23, 2015, 05:57 AM
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Pete - have you found Solite more puncture prone than Litespan? In my limited experience I have found the opposite - though that might be because the aggressively sharp and stiff reed type of grass stalks up at t'Moor can puncture the the Litespan as it seems a little more brittle (for want of a better word) than the Solite which has some elasticity....

If flying off nice green soft grass, it wouldn't be a problem.
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Old Jun 23, 2015, 07:02 AM
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cutting ply

A lovely grass landing strip awaits it!

Scale wise the plans are about 1:10.5 - Pete I'm sure can chip in if this is not so.

My most immediate problem is cutting the ply parts neatly. Has anyone tried a bandsaw? have some thin circular rings on 1/32 and some formers on 1/8th.

Many thanks
Vic
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Old Jun 23, 2015, 07:45 AM
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Yes, a bandsaw works fine. Just get a fine tooth blade for it.

For a some of the parts a coping saw might be an even better choice. Buy or make a cutting block for it (block of wood with a small hole it in to fit the blade).

charlie
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Old Jun 23, 2015, 12:38 PM
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I cut 1/32 ply with scissors and/or a hobby knife.

Larry
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Old Jun 23, 2015, 12:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lnagel View Post
I cut 1/32 ply with scissors and/or a hobby knife.

Larry
Me too. Even 1mm but they are my scissors, not the kitchen ones.
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