I am filling in all of the molded in panel lines on the U2 foamie. It is just as easy for me to increase the moving area of the rudder now. . R E A M in the EDF version

R E A & flaps only in the non powered version.

Assuming you are going to build the wing straight, I would not worry about making it any bigger. The reason is with a straight wing, no matter how big the rudder is, the rudder alone will only cause the plane to slip sideways while continuing in a straight line. If you just want to play with coordinated turns, you don't need a big rudder for that either.

this is the foamy. 66" WS 5 oz per sq ft wing loading.

That's close to the size of my U-2 and mine flies just fine without a rudder.

AWWWW cheese.

Some people say yes, others say no, about having a working rudder.

Always more than 1 way to do any job.

Maybe a better question is: what are you goals for having (or not) a rudder?

You can almost certainly fly the plane just fine without a rudder, adding a bit of aileron differential if needed to help deal with adverse yaw (if you noticed it was an issue).

Conservely, you can build it with a scale rudder, and I'm sure it will help you deal with adverse yaw to some extent or another. If you combine a working rudder with aileron differential then I'm positive you'll beat the adverse yaw (if it's even a problem, which it might not even be).

But... none of that answers the question of why you'd like (or not) to have rudder?

Steve

Originally Posted by surfimp

But... none of that answers the question of why you'd like (or not) to have rudder?

Steve

for lining up the onboard spy camera?

Phil.

1. This is a foam model with servo's already fitted
2. Its got an engine so really not a slopie
3. What do you intend to do with it
4. Yes the Rudder will make the tail kick
5. If the rudder is already fitted why change it
6. Charge it ,chuck it ,fly it
7. Smile lots

My wife bought ALL the foam replacement parts so I can assemble a true unpowered U2 glider.

HS-55s.....Corona Synthisized 4 channel...Will buy a Cheetah 2 cell LIPO. Not sure how small I can go in this glider setup.

All my powered planes are R E M. No ailerons.

Why would you want a smaller battery ?
and forget a lipo just grab a NiMh aa 2200 mah pack and stuff it in there

You can fly that plane as a sloper but it is not really designed for that. With only 5oz wing loading, it is going to fly very slow and floaty. No need for flaps. It is going to come in slow anyway. If you load it up to about 20oz per sq ft then it will still fly pretty much anywhere and will fly better as a sloper. But since it is designed for EDF, the lightweight construction might not hold up very well to the harder landings. Most likely the airfoil is kind of thick for a sloper too.

A bit off topic, but the picture you posted in the first post reminded me of a failure of those types of pictures when trying to convert an actual airplane/glider to a scale model.



When looking at the head on view the wing appears to have andihedral. What is not being accurately represented is the wing flex that will occur on the real airplane while in flight and which will effectively give it dihedral or more accurately a curved upward wing like a hobie hawk but less dramatic.

Why this post jogged my memory was because a long long time ago my dad and I (well, mostly my dad unless constant watching and moral support is the same has helping) scratch built the Russian version of the U2 the Mystic.

The Mystic




When trying to determine the wing plan form I remember we had a debate on whether to give it anhedral to "keep it scale" or to go with a dihedral or polyhedral wing.

Anyways, enough digressing and nostalgia.

Post up some pics of your progress and work even if it's just a foamie.

-Jonathan

EDIT: Oh fun! Was actually able to find some old pics of the model. My dad and I are the only white guys This was taken on top of Oishi Kogen (big rock plateau) in Japan. Note the final design was flat bottom surface of the two inner panels (technically anhedral on the top) with polyhedral tips.

Make sure you block off the intakes too. You don't want all the drag from the inside of the fuse. Russ is right, at a 5oz wing loading that thing is likely to fly backwards in all but the lightest of wind. And if you load it up too much the thing will probably not survive it's first landing. I would at least try to get the wing loading up closer to 8oz/sqft.

Gliders are a very different set of standards / conditions than a powered plane.
I got " lucky " with the intake fairings. Polar Tonic 1 liter bottle is a perfect fit. 2 diagonal cuts. Done.
I will be at the recycling dumpster tomorrow. Diving.

Steve

I have loads of B & D A123s. Both sizes. All at + 93 % after I bought them at Home Depot & B & D. Way way back in time. They just continue forever. I am using a 2200 LIPO nano in the powered U2.
I can go to the very safe A123s in both planes for preventing field fires .