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Old Mar 04, 2015, 04:49 PM
LedZepplin is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jackerbes View Post
It is amazingly easy to get turns on the wrong arm or in the wrong direction. You said you used abBCcaABbcC but that is only 11 arms, so it would actually be AabBCcaABbcC.

If you want to check it you can go here:

http://www.bavaria-direct.co.za/scheme/calculator/

Click on Advanced, paste in the AabBCcaABbcC notation and 14 for magnets and that should be what you see for windings.

Sometimes the motors will run good with a mistake on them but you'll find one arm getting a lot hotter than the others. That will be the arms wh the turns in the wrong direction...

Jack
Thanks, just a typo, it is AabBCcaABbcC. As I said it ran rough with SS-35 ESC and got hot. I ran it on a EFlite 30A ESC and it's smooth as silk all the way to full throttle and not hot so maybe I got the wind right. I suspect a timing issue. The SS-35 is 12 degrees and EFlite is 15 degrees. Both run at 8.5KHz.

I wired per Komodo diagram. Connected S1-E3, S2-E1 and S3-E2. Is it not the same as the calculator diagram?
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Old Mar 04, 2015, 08:54 PM
jackerbes is offline
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Jack
USA, ME, Ellsworth
Joined May 2008
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I have never used any timing setting except the default setting that it arrived with. I experimented with them a little and could not find any good reason to change from the defaults. So may you want to try that and see if that makes any difference with the rough running and heat.

The Komodo image is not an image of the AabBCcaABbcC scheme that is in the table below the image. It is actually an image of a aACcbBAacCBb scheme. I think it will work if wound that way but since I prefer to use that calculator I no longer wind any motors using that Komodo figure.

So if you have used the Komodo figure to wind with you may not have the AabBCcaABbcC scheme you think you do.

And I use that same termination as you do, S1-E3, S2-E1 and S3-E2.

I don't know for sure that there is a problem if you wind the phase halves as per the Komodo figure (arm 2 to arm 1 to arm 7 to arm 8) rather than the 1-2-7-8 order that the calculator shows.

If you take that aACcbBAacCBb scheme and enter it into the calculator in the advanced mode it winds the arms in the 1-2-7-8 order, not 2-1-7-8. It reverses the directions of the turns too but, since it reverses every arm, the wind is still valid and good.

These kinds of things were some of the details that I really struggled with as I started winding motors...

Jack
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Old Mar 06, 2015, 08:29 AM
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http://www.armbgc.com/came-mini-3-ax...on-case-stand/
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Old Mar 09, 2015, 02:52 PM
LedZepplin is offline
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Is there a rule-of-thumb for max current for a given motor wind configuration? I wound my 12-tooth, 14 magnet motor with 10 turns #24 wire per tooth, dLRK AabBCcaABbcC . It ran fine with prop load at 36 amps burst runs but burned up after 2 minutes at 25 amps. I did have a stator short before running. I was hoping it was shorted at 1 point only which should not be a problem but 2 shorts would mean smoke.

Zep
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Old Mar 09, 2015, 04:17 PM
Ron van Sommeren is offline
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Does not depend on winding diagram, or phases hookup, although a coil with multiple layers can handle less current than a single layer coil:
Best Wire Gauge Chart Ever!!

Vriendelijke groeten Ron
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Old Mar 16, 2015, 05:12 AM
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Hi, i got 2x 4114 motors for gimbal and i need to rewind them. I found those motor from other brands already winded for gimbal with 0.17mm wire and 100 or 120 turns. The problem is i can't find 0.17mm wire in my country, can i use 0.2mm?

This are the motor specs:

GARTT MT-036 MT4114

Motor KV330KV RPM / V
Electrical resistance of 0.1082 Ω
No-load current 0.6A / 10V
Maximum continuous current of 25A
Maximum continuous power 750W
Motor weight ≈170g / 6oz
Lithium sessions 4S-8S
Motor diameter 46mm / 1.81in
Motor length 32.5mm / 1.28in
Slot poles 24N22P
Overall length of the shaft 40.4mm / 1.59in
Shaft diameter 3.175mm / 0.125in
Bolt hole spacing 19mm / 25mm / 0.75in / 0.98i
Bolt specification M3 6
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Old Mar 16, 2015, 05:42 AM
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Jack
USA, ME, Ellsworth
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The goal in rewinding these gimbal motors was that they have a 5 to 15 Ohm resistance so as to work with the gimbal controllers. That is discussed here back in post #8:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...37&postcount=8

I am not using gimbals and know little about them so I don't know if that 5-15 Ohm resistance still a goal for winding. So that is about the best answer I can give you...

Jack
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Old Mar 16, 2015, 09:39 AM
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0.2mm winding would result 1.63x less resistance for the same space available on a tooth, versus 0.17mm.
You must try winding at least a tooth and measure resistance, or find another guy who did exactly the same motor with 0.17, and ask the resistance he got. If he tell you 10 Ohms, this means you will be close to 6 Ohms with 0.2mm
I would rather consider 0.15mm instead 0.17mm.
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