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Old May 31, 2014, 10:22 AM
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How about a Turnigy MAX 80W?

Been watching this with interest - I have a Turnigy MAX 80W which also has a 3 pin USB/Temp socket - I have connected this up (-ve and signal) but don't get any reading at all - I wired this to a 9 pin D socket and plugged this into my RS232/USB converter (gives me a 'virtual' serial port) but get nothing, via Logview or Putty (yes, I have USB enabled on the charger) I put a multimeter on the -ve and signal but get no reading at all - even when there is a battery being charged.

So I pulled the cover off the charger and took a couple of photos, but was not sure if I had anything missing or not. Couldn't see any missing components, if anyone has any advice I would appreciate it?

Thanks

Chris
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Old Jun 06, 2014, 09:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willy163 View Post
This APP seems to be specific for Digitech QM1576 multimeter.
Communication protocol is certainly different, so impossible to use with our charger.

Willy.
Has anyone tried this app https://play.google.com/store/apps/d...rc.chargemaste ?
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Old Jun 07, 2014, 02:28 AM
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Originally Posted by adioperator View Post
Maybe it can work! The only trick to do is to connect a serial bluetooth module to the charger.
I'm finishing to build my home so I can't try before a couple of months.

Willy.
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Old Jun 07, 2014, 03:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cparsons View Post
Been watching this with interest - I have a Turnigy MAX 80W which also has a 3 pin USB/Temp socket - I have connected this up (-ve and signal) but don't get any reading at all - I wired this to a 9 pin D socket and plugged this into my RS232/USB converter (gives me a 'virtual' serial port) but get nothing, via Logview or Putty (yes, I have USB enabled on the charger) I put a multimeter on the -ve and signal but get no reading at all - even when there is a battery being charged.

So I pulled the cover off the charger and took a couple of photos, but was not sure if I had anything missing or not. Couldn't see any missing components, if anyone has any advice I would appreciate it?
Hi Chris,
If I understand this thread correctly and your charger is of the "breed" being discussed here, there would be a couple of things for you to look into. Firstly according to the first post in this thread, by Marek, "Output signal is 5V-TTL RS232, to connect to PC serial port you'll need level shifter". So the voltages aren't conforming to the RS232 standard and this suggests to me that the RS232/USB converter won't work for you. Marek provides a couple of links and others on recent pages have found "TTL to USB converters" via ebay to do this (gernerally costing just a few dollars).

The lack of signal on your multimeter is probably explained by some missing parts from the other side of the PCB to that which you posted pictures for. (That is to say, missing from the non screen or display side of the board). See pic below, (not mine), which I believe shows the "play it safe" option.

Marek wrote:
"The pin that can output serial data isn't routed to the 3-pin connector anymore. It goes directly to the usb interface circuit, but the circuit isn't there. That's why LogView won't work out of the box. All you need to do now, is to get the signal routed back to the 3-pin connector and you can enjoy LogView curves.

To play it safe you will need a 10k 0805 resistor, a 100k 0805 resistor and a 1n4144 mini-MELF diode and a piece of wire. This way the serial output is 100% safe if you plug in the temp probe and forget to change menu setting. See photo for where to put these components.

To play it dirty you just need a piece of wire, connect the left pad of where the 10k resistor is in the photo with the middle pin of the 3-pin connector. Voila.
"

I'm awaiting a USB to TTL converter myself, but have improvised and put (a non surface mount component version of) the "play it safe" components on the board of my Accucell 6 and can see a 0 to -5V waveform appear on my antiquated oscilloscope, so things look promising.

Hope this helps!

Nigel

P.S. I used to be able to see the images from the post by Merek on page 1 but Internet explorer just shows a broken link icon. I notice there is a pic showing the "dirty job" option by MatadorAV8 on page 1 for those wanting that option, which will be a problem if you connect a temperature sensor as I understand it; presumably something will die!
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Old Jun 29, 2014, 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by pszynk View Post
I think the scheme should rather look at the ways.

Regards
Not to be disagreeable, but I made this one and it works perfectly. I also had to change the 39k resistor in the charger that is far to large for what it has to do, with a 1k resistor.
If you change that resistor, the temp will drop a little (3 degrees). I just lowered my cut-off temp by 3 degrees.
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Last edited by SteLee; Jun 29, 2014 at 06:40 PM. Reason: update/addition
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Old Jun 30, 2014, 01:18 AM
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Originally Posted by SteLee View Post
Not to be disagreeable, but I made this one and it works perfectly. I also had to change the 39k resistor in the charger that is far to large for what it has to do, with a 1k resistor.
If you change that resistor, the temp will drop a little (3 degrees). I just lowered my cut-off temp by 3 degrees.
Hallo.
Thanks for sharing. Since it is inverting, do you connect it directly to a RS-232 port without a level shifter (like MAX232)?
The 39k resistor you've repleaced is the one on the transistor base? Did you try with 10k? Maybe it works ant it doesn't hurt temp reading.

Willy.
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Old Jun 30, 2014, 08:13 AM
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Hallo right back at'cha.
Yes, as the labels and description imply, this connects directly to an actual RS-232 port. Almost all the rs-232 ports I've dealt with will accept a 5 volt signal as long as it's inverted like what a 1488 or Max232 chip does.
Regarding the 1k vs 10k resistor... I'd rather change the setting in the charger than have to solder several surface mount resistors the size of a flake of pepper in order to find the one with the optimum value. B-) Feel free to give it a try. I suppose the right tools would help.
I hope that didn't sound snarky.

Update: I've just tested going from an atmel AtTiny4313's USART port powered by about 4volts (1s Li-ion battery) at 9600 baud, to an RS-232 port, and it works perfectly.

SteLee
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Last edited by SteLee; Jul 04, 2014 at 03:10 AM. Reason: update
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Old Jun 30, 2014, 08:20 AM
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Old Jun 30, 2014, 10:28 AM
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Hugh P wrote:
"This may be of some help decoding the 4 button chargers
You can download the program that he wrote while decoding the data block at
http://www.quincyhobby.com in the download tab."
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=

Hi.
Have you used that program "USBCharger3000" that you posted about?
I had problems with the .ini file making the program report something like "ComCOM2 not present". So I manually edited it to say "2" instead of "COM2". Now it just doesn't work. Any Ideas? Do you know how to contact the author? I couldn't find any contact info, other than a mailing/physical address. 8-(

Update:
In case anyone else is interested. I contacted the author and they are looking into these problems. Possible update I hope.

Tnx
Stephen
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Last edited by SteLee; Jun 30, 2014 at 11:31 PM. Reason: update
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Old Jul 01, 2014, 04:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nige333 View Post
Hi Chris,
If I understand this thread correctly and your charger is of the "breed" being discussed here, there would be a couple of things for you to look into. Firstly according to the first post in this thread, by Marek, "Output signal is 5V-TTL RS232, to connect to PC serial port you'll need level shifter". So the voltages aren't conforming to the RS232 standard and this suggests to me that the RS232/USB converter won't work for you. Marek provides a couple of links and others on recent pages have found "TTL to USB converters" via ebay to do this (gernerally costing just a few dollars).

The lack of signal on your multimeter is probably explained by some missing parts from the other side of the PCB to that which you posted pictures for. (That is to say, missing from the non screen or display side of the board). See pic below, (not mine), which I believe shows the "play it safe" option.

Marek wrote:
"The pin that can output serial data isn't routed to the 3-pin connector anymore. It goes directly to the usb interface circuit, but the circuit isn't there. That's why LogView won't work out of the box. All you need to do now, is to get the signal routed back to the 3-pin connector and you can enjoy LogView curves.

To play it safe you will need a 10k 0805 resistor, a 100k 0805 resistor and a 1n4144 mini-MELF diode and a piece of wire. This way the serial output is 100% safe if you plug in the temp probe and forget to change menu setting. See photo for where to put these components.

To play it dirty you just need a piece of wire, connect the left pad of where the 10k resistor is in the photo with the middle pin of the 3-pin connector. Voila.
"

I'm awaiting a USB to TTL converter myself, but have improvised and put (a non surface mount component version of) the "play it safe" components on the board of my Accucell 6 and can see a 0 to -5V waveform appear on my antiquated oscilloscope, so things look promising.

Hope this helps!

Nigel

P.S. I used to be able to see the images from the post by Merek on page 1 but Internet explorer just shows a broken link icon. I notice there is a pic showing the "dirty job" option by MatadorAV8 on page 1 for those wanting that option, which will be a problem if you connect a temperature sensor as I understand it; presumably something will die!
Thanks Nigel - I was missing the image and now I have seen this I'll take the PCB out of the case and have a look at the underside - I am sure I can find a couple of small resistors and a diode

Regards

Chris
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