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Old Aug 13, 2011, 11:51 AM
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USA, OH, Conneaut
Joined Jan 2011
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Boat planks

My set up for making planks
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Old Aug 13, 2011, 12:30 PM
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United States, TX, La Porte
Joined Apr 2007
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With your fence set to the left didn't you have to keep changing it after each pass? I may be missing something though. When I cut mine I set the blade about 3/16 from the fence and cut them. Kinda scary either way you do it.
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Old Aug 13, 2011, 01:20 PM
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North Central TN USA
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I've done something similar and had a bunch of shims the right thickness and add one between the fence and plank each pass.
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Old Aug 13, 2011, 01:20 PM
Woodfumbler......
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Copenhagen. Denmark
Joined Apr 2010
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Nice surroundings, for making planks.
And the results is looking good to.


Robert
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Old Aug 13, 2011, 01:30 PM
Veni, Vidi, Feci
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Motor City
Joined Dec 2004
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I rip them on a bandsaw, but have to thickness sand to finish...
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Old Aug 13, 2011, 02:58 PM
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Guelph, ON
Joined Sep 2004
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Ripping thin strips is a lot easier with a zero-clearance insert and the proper blade. I have ripped down to a little under 1/8" with a Freud Glue-Line Ripping blade on my Ridgid table saw.
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Old Aug 13, 2011, 03:29 PM
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United States, TX, La Porte
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Yes, I have to run mine through the thickness sander after I cut them. My thickness sander must have had 10,000ft of Mahogany run through it over the years. It is from way back in the 1980's. It just keeps chunging along.
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Old Aug 13, 2011, 04:00 PM
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USA, OH, Conneaut
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You have to push the board up against the feather board, then move the fence up to it and lock it with each pass. Works real well, because the strip is not being stuck between the fence and blade. The strips are 3/32" x 48" Don
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Old Aug 13, 2011, 04:33 PM
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North Central TN USA
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Actually you can cut one that is correct then use it and every succeeding one for spacers.
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Old Aug 13, 2011, 04:42 PM
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Hamilton,ON Canada
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Don't you still need to allow for kerf of the blade each time?
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Old Aug 13, 2011, 04:47 PM
SLK
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USA, IL, Morton
Joined Feb 2007
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Sawing Planks

Quote:
Originally Posted by 420TEE View Post
Actually you can cut one that is correct then use it and every succeeding one for spacers.
I have a four inch table saw with a micrometer on the rip fence. I saw all my planks a few thousandths wide (band saw or the small table saw carbide blade) and then use a hand micrometer, get the plank size and then use the micrometer on the rip fence to get the exact size I feel I want, every time. My saw has a removable blade cover insert, to have zero blade clearance for various thickness slitting blades (no kerf). With this method I can make 1/32 square stock. Thank you Stu Kerrn
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Old Aug 13, 2011, 08:39 PM
Retired for now
Bonita Springs,Fl.
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Nice set up Hotshot. I'll have to try that on my table saw. The only thing missing in your pictures is a nice old time mahogany runabout at the dock. Nice looking site. pete
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Old Aug 14, 2011, 12:30 PM
Big Boats Rule!
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Wisconsin
Joined Jun 2007
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I used a disposable piece of thin ply clamped to the table as a zero clearance insert. I would set the fence position by testing on a scrap piece. Then lower the blade and clamp the ply in place. Start the blade and raise it through the ply. And my fence is on the right side of the blade so it doesn't change for each cut. I found that it works best to cut the planks from a bigger board by ripping the plank thickness dimension first, then going for the width. Always start with longer planks than needed so you don't have to worry about the last few inches. And use a push stick and finger boards as needed to keep the stock under control. A helper to pull the pieces out the other end helps, too.

Dave
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