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Old Sep 08, 2014, 04:02 PM
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Springfield, OH
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Originally Posted by Paratrooper View Post
Jeff, surely your ship is going to exceed 150 pounds. ....

Ray, you are correct. My Fair American Brig more than likely will tip the scale around 250 lbs. I just looked at the pictures of the boat's first float test from years ago. With 80 lbs of ballast the brig was not even down to its water line. Ballast may be 100 lbs more or less. ( will be combination of external and internal) I have not weighed the boat hull, but it is fairly hefty already. Jethro Bodine is better at math than me.
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Old Sep 22, 2014, 08:15 AM
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Springfield, OH
Joined May 2008
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Hitec HS - 805BB Mega Power servo is finding its home in the tray. The servo tray is removable.

The control line helps visualize the layout. The current screw eyes are for testing. More robust ones will be installed when location for them is finalized. The wood support for the screw eyes will then be epoxied in place.

The 805 servo is powerful at 343 oz-in of torque. 90 degrees of rotation will be set for 45 degrees to starboard and 45 to port. If I recall correctly, DanL said 30 degrees each direction worked well on his Syren.
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Old Sep 22, 2014, 10:48 AM
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United States, MN, Brainerd
Joined Oct 2004
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Originally Posted by RevWarBrig View Post
The 805 servo is powerful at 343 oz-in of torque. 90 degrees of rotation will be set for 45 degrees to starboard and 45 to port. If I recall correctly, DanL said 30 degrees each direction worked well on his Syren.
The 30degree rudder swing recommendation comes from SC&H and is the typical range used on a lot of the models in our club. With the rudder extension on Syren, 30 degrees is more than enough, and I now have it tuned to a bit less and have the servo speed set low to get a more gradual response.

The servo swing/rudder swing ratio will depend on the relative lengths of the actuating arms. To get the best mechanical advantage and use of servo power, set the servo for full 45deg rotation and shorten the servo arm to get the desired rudder swing. Then the rudder arm should be made longer than the servo arm to get 30 degree rotation. The ratio of arm lengths should be approximately 45:30, e.g. 3" rudder arm and 2" servo arm.

Another mechanical efficiency improvement, using a two-end servo arm can eliminate a turn and overall drag in the control line path. See sketch...

Another tidbit.... the rudder tends to get bumped no matter how careful ly the model is launched/transported /displayed. I disconnect the tiller lines on Syren and use a clamp to hold the rudder in place. Any forced rudder movement might damage the gearing or potentiometer in the servo. The suggested "servo-saver" bungee and a rudder clamp will help protect the servo.
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Last edited by DanL; Sep 23, 2014 at 08:13 AM.
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Old Sep 28, 2014, 06:59 PM
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Springfield, OH
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DanL - your input is always appreciated! I am working off of your excellent diagram to design the steering.
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Old Oct 20, 2014, 07:04 PM
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Springfield, OH
Joined May 2008
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Servo rudder arm is made out of plywood following DanL's design. I will create the "servo saver" after I have the rudder itself closer to being installed.

The rudder is coming closer to installation. In preparation, the 1/4 inch brass rod was knurled to give the epoxy a rough surface to grip. I could only knurl about an inch at a time near the chuck due to the rod flexing even with the other end mounted in a free spinning support.

The brass rod will be drilled for the installation of brass rods "drifts" from JerryTodd's suggestion.

The help from everyone is what makes this group so fantastic! Very much appreciated!
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Old Oct 20, 2014, 08:13 PM
Paratrooper
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Eubank Kentucky
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Very nice work indeed. This is going to be a fantastic ship on the water--someday!
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Old Oct 26, 2014, 03:09 PM
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Springfield, OH
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Drifts are 3/32 inch brass set in the 1/4 inch brass rudder post. 1/8 inch holes were drilled in the rudder body to accommodate the brass drifts. Dry fitted many times to make sure the drifts would slide into their holes easily enough before epoxying in place.

All the drifts were covered in epoxy along with the grove for the brass rudder post. Clamped in place and left to dry.

Auto body putty (Bondo) was mixed up to fill in and build up the front of the rudder to produce the needed profile. Final build up of putty and fitting will take place when I am ready to mount the rudder in place.

Before I can get some color back on the hull, I need to finish the windows at the stern. I have not decided to just close them up with wood or use plastic to have the future possibility of lights glowing through the windows.

Perhaps just make up my mind and do it or else "someday" will be even slower in arriving.
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Old Oct 26, 2014, 03:41 PM
Paratrooper
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Eubank Kentucky
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I am surprised you didn't solder those in.

I hope SOMEDAY will come when I still have the ability to drive to a lake you are sailing on so I can see this work of art on the water.

RG
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Old Oct 26, 2014, 06:33 PM
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Springfield, OH
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Originally Posted by Paratrooper View Post
I am surprised you didn't solder those in.

I hope SOMEDAY will come when I still have the ability to drive to a lake you are sailing on so I can see this work of art on the water.

RG
Ray - I did think about soldering them in place. Then I reasoned that the brass drifts wouldn't have anywhere to go, no place to move once epoxied in place along with the shaft knurled and epoxied in place.

SOMEDAY needs to come. I've put too many years and lots of effort into the Fair American. The Brig needs to sail. I would be honored to share that moment with you! And with whomever is within driving distance!
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Old Oct 26, 2014, 08:08 PM
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United States, MD, Severna Park
Joined Apr 2008
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It says you're 410 miles away - that doesn't seem too bad - 7 hours give-or-take. Maybe I can have something sailing to bring along.
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Old Oct 29, 2014, 11:52 AM
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United States, CA, San Jose
Joined Aug 2012
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What a great looking build!!

Looking forward to seeing more.

Best regards
Tim
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Old Nov 19, 2014, 05:01 PM
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Springfield, OH
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Originally Posted by TBowman View Post
What a great looking build!!

Looking forward to seeing more.

Best regards
Tim
Thank you, Tim!

Built stern gallery window casements. Material is 1/16 birch plywood. All the sides were cut to the same dimension and the tops/bottoms were cut to matching dimensions too. (The angle of the tilt for the sides of the window casements is 20 degrees to match the stern's tilt)

To get a little help with the skewed shaped, I scanned my plans and then used PosteRazor to enlarge 400%. Only printed off the pdf page that had the stern gallery windows. Plan was pixilated, but helped with the offset from square that the windows progress from middle to outside.

Just like a house, the built window casements were then inserted and glued into the openings in the stern. The small gaps around the window will be filled with auto body putty. (Need to remember I cut the original stern gallery window openings back in 1987, and I have progressed some in building skill these past 27 years. - wow 27 years this build has been going - ) Where has the time gone?)

Once the gaps around the window casements are filled and sanded, both inside and outside, I'll begin taping to get color back on the hull.

Final window trim, with glazing will come later.
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Old Nov 19, 2014, 08:24 PM
Paratrooper
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Eubank Kentucky
Joined Nov 2007
877 Posts
A fantastic build Jeff, your work is excellent, slow but excellent!!!!
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Old Nov 20, 2014, 12:04 PM
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Joined Aug 2006
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Back when I put stern windows into my SC&H hull, I used plastic window frames from HO gauge RR store building components available from my local hobby shop for frames so I could achieve divided light windows. The plastic window frames were easy to pull out of square with hot tap water heat to follow the curve of the stern. Just another idea. Excellent looking build you have done!!
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Last edited by beneteau3; Nov 20, 2014 at 12:28 PM.
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Old Dec 01, 2014, 09:11 PM
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Springfield, OH
Joined May 2008
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beneteau3 - interesting suggestion using HO windows. They look good in your ship.

For me, at the scale I am building 1/12th, off the shelf items are very hard to come by. Even doll house items are not quite right. I've looked.

The gallery window frames had bondo added to fill in the gaps. Sanded and ready for sealing and painting.

Began taping the deck to get ready for painting. As I came to the bow, I remembered that the timberheads needed to be made. Stopped taping and make them. The pictures show the timberheads in rough form.
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