Whenever the servo rotates the camera servo the Rudder will glitch a few milimeters to the left and right. I have a UBEC, but I don't like glitches. Buzzing servos I can tolerate.

Originally Posted by quitcherbitchen

Finally put the pan camera on the Super Cub. It's a Turnigy 180degree digital servo. Camera can move from front to rear using a lever on the transmitter. I notice the camera glitches the rudder servo when in use. That kinda has me scratching my head.

That may only happen when you're close to the plane. Have someone check it when you walk away a bit.

Pan camera servo worked pretty good.

Super Cub with digital pan servo (2 min 57 sec)

I flubbed the landing in this video,but you get the idea of vertical power.
The Durafly prop works great once I balanced it. 24.59 amps and 262.36 watts on a 1300mah 15c 3s stock battery. Eflite 480 motor 920kv. I have a 40 amp esc with a Castle Creations 10amp (on4s only) 7amp on 3s UBEC which my telemetry told me had kicked in to 7amps at one point during the flight. I guess mixing all those sticks and moving the camera takes its toll on the BEC. I tried an APC10x 7 SF prop which was even higher power at 28.36 amps and 315.5 watts. That felt a little too high and I wanted more run time, but it was a rocket. Guys with Funjets were impressed. I am never using an APC10x7E again.

Forgive the play on words but that's bitchen, quit :-)

Originally Posted by quitcherbitchen

I actually don't use rods. I use Carbon 5mm flat strips that I put in 2.5 inchs back from the leading edge in a vertical slit that I cut with a razor saw. 30" might be overkill, but as long as you get it out to near the wing struts your good. I push the carbon strip into the slit low enough to put a servo lead on top. Just use White Guerrilla Glue spread on both sides of the strip and push it in. I usually push the strip in a few times to widen the cut, then once it looks even depth I glue it in. This setup as survived two major crashes with out major damage to the wing. I have also power dived the plane and haven't noticed flex if any at all.

Maybe my Cub has become different from wear but my wings only bend back and forth right next to the fuselage. That's the point I'm a bit concerned about breaking.

I understand how a length of carbon set on edge would do a nice job of strengthening the main part of the wing. But right where the wing meets the fuselage (on both sides) there is a sharp angle. Can the carbon on edge be bent to follow this angle? And if it CAN be bent at a sharp angle then it may not be able to do the job intended, which is to prevent any bending at this point.

Might be cheaper and easier to just simply replace the wing, foto...

Originally Posted by jetpackninja

Your instincts are dead on. The spars are doing their job...
No need to reinforce the wing unless you want to get rid of the struts or plan on doing high G loops.

Having said all that, reinforcing the wing is a very popular mod, but usually in conjunction with flattening the wing to remove some or all of the dihedral to help effectiveness of ailerons,

Thanks for your input. I think for now I'll depend on the wing struts to keep the wing from over-flexing. I just bought a new wing and I'll put it on as soon as I get the decals on. The original wing is rather shabby looking anyway.

Originally Posted by fotoflyer

Maybe my Cub has become different from wear but my wings only bend back and forth right next to the fuselage. That's the point I'm a bit concerned about breaking.

I understand how a length of carbon set on edge would do a nice job of strengthening the main part of the wing. But right where the wing meets the fuselage (on both sides) there is a sharp angle. Can the carbon on edge be bent to follow this angle? And if it CAN be bent at a sharp angle then it may not be able to do the job intended, which is to prevent any bending at this point.

Maybe I should explain that the Cub wing is pretty thick. You saw a channel in so the carbon is even across but not in depth. I. E. it will be twice as deep in the middle then near the tips. I reckon the depth is almost half an inch in the middle, but don't take me for my word as I don't want you sawing your wing in two. Just that the straight carbon can blend in with the small amount of dihedral and you won't even notice it. I still use the struts mind you, but I have flown without them too. Some high G maneuvers have blown the bottom hatch open so I tend to fly with the struts just for insurance.

I've even seen them flown w/o the struts. They flex a lot and I thought sure I was going to see it snap. As far as I know he's never snapped it but I run the struts too, even with the hotter motor setup they work fine. The hatch coming open is a blast to watch the plane fly around with the battery dangling in midair, I've had it happen a couple of times too and just was lucky the battery didn't disconnect!

Even if you over flex the wings, there is still the chance of the hook in the struts breaking. (Ask me how I know). If you are worried about this then you could replace the plastic struts and with a bit of fore thought, make some out of wire.
Another example of wing flex. In a heavy landing, here is a screen shot from a video of one of my bad landings. nothing was bust though.

!

That's amazing...

So the last couple flights ive had when i get to the higher throttle there is a vibrating sound and it makes my SC sound terrible. I throttled it up in my hand and when i hold down the firewall the vibrations go away. Im assuming this part needs replaced every now and again. ive had 61 flights with it. So my question is , how do i go about replacing or re glueing the firewall to make it firm again? should i somehow cut it off? and would epoxy work ok or is there something better to use?
thank you for inputs
christian

It may be that the firewall is simply detaching from the fuselage.
The best way to check is to remove the motor and gearbox.
That will give you the opportunity to check that the gearbox housing isn't cracked and the motor and gears still spin freely without binding.
The firewall can then be checked for cracks and it should be firmly fixed to the fuselage.
. The firewall can become detached or cracked if you have had some heavy nose impacts.
There are a number of adhesives that are suitable. I use UHU Por.
The firewall can be quite trick to remove, care must be taken not to damage the fuselage.
I recently replaced mine after a heavy crash following a power failure on take off.

I just had my Super Cub hit a concrete curb dead on the prop shaft. The impact pushed the plastic gear box into the fuse a bit, cracking the plastic firewall. Amazingly the gear box is ok, as well as the prop and spinner. The shaft got bent, but I have several new shafts, so that's a easy fix.

After removing the gear box, I pulled the firewall back into position. So now it is straight but has some cracks in it. What would be the best way to repair these cracks? I'm sure CA glue will not work. What about gorilla glue? The firewall is held on now with a soft bathtub caulk. Should I use that on the cracks.? I'm not familiar with UHU Por. What is it and where can I buy it? Would it work to fix the cracks.?

Or, I actually happen to have a new plastic firewall. I would just go ahead and install it, but removing the broken firewall looks like it would be very difficult.

Suggestions and comments? TIA

It shouldnt be too hard to remove the firewall. I replaced mine and it came off pretty easy , prying it off a little at a time. I put the new one on using gorilla glue and electric tape to secure it into place while the glue dried. I hope this helps.
John.