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Old May 19, 2012, 08:47 AM
Registered User
South Africa, GP, Johannesburg
Joined Sep 2010
2,495 Posts
Just some clarification needed:

Power......The whole system is powered directly off the battery? So that means no red or black wires from the ESC's ? This is how all y multirotors are set up however using as seperate UBEC which is not needed in this case.

Somewhere they say, when testing, turn on TX then RX and then the rest of the electronics. Surely the RX and all the FC get turned on at the same time when connecting the battery?


I am trying to figure out the best way to connect my Tx up with the limited channels I have.
I have the following channels :
5..3 way switch..966-1520-2073
6..2 way switch..1520-2073
7..2 way switch..966-2073
I intend connecting the Rx channel 5 (3 way switch) to channel 6 on the MC giving me the choice of 1 auto hovering, 2 Auto nav/waypoint and 3 auto return home.

And then connecting the Rx channel 6 (2 way switch) to channel 5 on the MC giving me the choice of position 2-Stab Mode and Altitude hold or position 3-GPS Mode.

This means that I will never use Position 1-Manual mode.

So I will always be in Stabilization mode unless I am in GPS Mode. Does anyone see a problem with this?

Cheers
Rob
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Old May 19, 2012, 08:52 AM
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RTRyder's Avatar
Boston, MA
Joined Jul 2010
1,005 Posts
It flys!

Quote:
Originally Posted by redridinghood View Post
Any reviews or impressions? Don't keep us waiting.

My usps express package hopefully should arrive before June.
I just got mine off the ground for the first time. The frame its on had a WKM on it and flew about as good as you can make a WKM fly. First impression is the YS is very similar to the WKM in the equivalent of DJI's ATTI mode, altitude hold works pretty much the same and the autoleveling seems to be good as well. I was getting some fast oscillations which normally would indicate a gain or PID setting needs to be adjusted, but since this frame was setup to fly well with a WKM, having smaller than usual props and high disc loading, I'm not all that surprised that it's a bit off with a different controller.

I also need to do the compass calibrations over to make sure they're good, I think I messed up the first time through. I have a decent collection of props to select from so before the next flight I'll swap over to something with a bit more lift to them to see how that effects things.

One thing I did notice, GPS satellite acquisition is far faster than the WKM, more in line with what I see with my MKs. While not quite the near instant lock the MK get, it took well under a minute to get a full lock first time outside.

It's definitely a learning curve and the questionable translation of the manual makes it difficult to figure some things out but as it progresses I think it will get easier.

I will say it's not as simple and rock solid out of the box as either of the WKM I have were, but it's much better than a lot of other flight controllers I've used. Obviously I still have a lot of tweaking and testing to do but initial impressions are good.
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Old May 19, 2012, 09:00 AM
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fajar's Avatar
sydney, downunder
Joined Jan 2011
1,663 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by robone View Post
Just some clarification needed:

Power......The whole system is powered directly off the battery? So that means no red or black wires from the ESC's ? This is how all y multirotors are set up however using as seperate UBEC which is not needed in this case.

Somewhere they say, when testing, turn on TX then RX and then the rest of the electronics. Surely the RX and all the FC get turned on at the same time when connecting the battery?


I am trying to figure out the best way to connect my Tx up with the limited channels I have.
I have the following channels :
5..3 way switch..966-1520-2073
6..2 way switch..1520-2073
7..2 way switch..966-2073
I intend connecting the Rx channel 5 (3 way switch) to channel 6 on the MC giving me the choice of 1 auto hovering, 2 Auto nav/waypoint and 3 auto return home.

And then connecting the Rx channel 6 (2 way switch) to channel 5 on the MC giving me the choice of position 2-Stab Mode and Altitude hold or position 3-GPS Mode.

This means that I will never use Position 1-Manual mode.

So I will always be in Stabilization mode unless I am in GPS Mode. Does anyone see a problem with this?

Cheers
Rob
You definitely need channel 5 position 1- manual mode to regain control of the craft in case something unexpectedly happen during auto landing, waypoint, etc. Take for instance when you want to auto land in gusty conditions, you may need to switch to manual mode as the craft approaches less than tens of centimeters from the ground. It will definitely save you more money to get the proper tx, especially if you're just learning to utilize all features of the system. I highly recommend getting a tx that has two 3-way switches unless you want to give up waypoint system.

Never mind about turning on TX then RX then FC; RC and FC will turn on the same time. The point the manual was trying to convey was about being safe when operating RC model so always turn on the Tx first like in the case of any model.
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Old May 19, 2012, 09:17 AM
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fajar's Avatar
sydney, downunder
Joined Jan 2011
1,663 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by RTRyder View Post
I just got mine off the ground for the first time. The frame its on had a WKM on it and flew about as good as you can make a WKM fly. First impression is the YS is very similar to the WKM in the equivalent of DJI's ATTI mode, altitude hold works pretty much the same and the autoleveling seems to be good as well. I was getting some fast oscillations which normally would indicate a gain or PID setting needs to be adjusted, but since this frame was setup to fly well with a WKM, having smaller than usual props and high disc loading, I'm not all that surprised that it's a bit off with a different controller.

I also need to do the compass calibrations over to make sure they're good, I think I messed up the first time through. I have a decent collection of props to select from so before the next flight I'll swap over to something with a bit more lift to them to see how that effects things.

One thing I did notice, GPS satellite acquisition is far faster than the WKM, more in line with what I see with my MKs. While not quite the near instant lock the MK get, it took well under a minute to get a full lock first time outside.

It's definitely a learning curve and the questionable translation of the manual makes it difficult to figure some things out but as it progresses I think it will get easier.

I will say it's not as simple and rock solid out of the box as either of the WKM I have were, but it's much better than a lot of other flight controllers I've used. Obviously I still have a lot of tweaking and testing to do but initial impressions are good.
I know that you're very experienced person but perhaps you can check on the value for magnetic declination. The manual was pretty confusing about it.

Mine did exhibit fast oscillation but it was gone after I input the correct value.
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Old May 19, 2012, 09:28 AM
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South Africa, GP, Johannesburg
Joined Sep 2010
2,495 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by fajar View Post
You definitely need channel 5 position 1- manual mode to regain control of the craft in case something unexpectedly happen during auto landing, waypoint, etc.
Hi Fajar....Thanks...On all other systems that I have flown there have always been 3 modes:

-1. 3D mode (Manual Mode),
-2. Attitude mode (Stabilization Mode) and
-3. GPS mode (if available)

and I have always had my system fixed on Attitude mode (Stabilisation Mode) and switchable to GPS mode (if available). I have never used 3D mode.

They recommend switching to position 2 (Stabilization Mode) when taking off.

So, I don't see why it should be different on this system. Or am I wrong?

Rob
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Old May 19, 2012, 09:43 AM
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fajar's Avatar
sydney, downunder
Joined Jan 2011
1,663 Posts
Rob,

It's a new system with lots of features. The manual mode provides us with the only way to regain control with our RC Tx from autonomous flying. So the manual mode is designed as an important security layer when flying and using the system's advanced features: RTH and landing, waypoint etc.

Simply put, the last thing anyone needs is a flyaway copter as a result of skipping some important steps before activating the waypoint feature.
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Old May 19, 2012, 09:47 AM
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Joined Jan 2007
4,482 Posts
While reading a thread on QQ I found this picture. Thought you guys might appreciate it. Not sure the frame it's mounted on. Nice setup anyway.

- Jeff
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Old May 19, 2012, 10:17 AM
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TNTJET's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Bass Hill
Joined Jan 2012
332 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by robone View Post
Hi Fajar....Thanks...On all other systems that I have flown there have always been 3 modes:

-1. 3D mode (Manual Mode),
-2. Attitude mode (Stabilization Mode) and
-3. GPS mode (if available)

and I have always had my system fixed on Attitude mode (Stabilisation Mode) and switchable to GPS mode (if available). I have never used 3D mode.

They recommend switching to position 2 (Stabilization Mode) when taking off.

So, I don't see why it should be different on this system. Or am I wrong?

Rob
hey Rob Ys Manual position 1 on channel 5 is atti ,middle is atti alt hold ,3 is gps hold ,but on GCS it shows it as manual, manual and gps hold . Now only in Gps hold will the function of channel 6 work pos 1 PH ,pos 2 Gps Navi ,pos 3 RTH. If ever the copter doesnt respond to command you flick Ch5 switch to manual 1(atti) . hope i have helped
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Old May 19, 2012, 10:33 AM
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RTRyder's Avatar
Boston, MA
Joined Jul 2010
1,005 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by fajar View Post
I know that you're very experienced person but perhaps you can check on the value for magnetic declination. The manual was pretty confusing about it.

Mine did exhibit fast oscillation but it was gone after I input the correct value.
I did get the correct value for declination, where I live its -14.9. The problem is no matter how I enter and save that value it, when I do a get afterwards it comes back as a positive 10.4 to 11.6 value, appears to be a bug in the firmware not allowing the negative value to be set correctly.

As for the oscillations, a change of props and a little tweaking session in the back yard with the Android phone in hand and it's flying OH so nicely now!

Adjustments to the PTZ roll and pitch sensitivity as well as Attitude sensitivity has smoothed out the oscillations, apparently this is equivalent of DJI pitch, roll, and ATTI gain settings only better.

I take off in Attitude mode and see how it flys, land, go to manual mode, make changes viua GCS app, take off and see how it flys. Needs adjustment? Just land and tweak it again with the phone! Only way it could be any easier is if the changes could be made on the fly while in the air. Maybe they can, I'm just not brave enough to try and that would really be a two person job anyway!

I have to say now I'm impressed, this platform is a lot more "tunable" than the WKM. A little gusty wind came up while I was last outside and with a couple tweaks I got it to smooth out nicely, I think this system will be far better on large frames than the WKM as it seems to have a lot more range of adjustment and tolerance for wind gusts, it rivals my MKs for stability in wind and I've only just begun to figure out how to tune it, with a lot more stick time I'm positive I can have this flying as well or better than an MK stack on my Cinestar 6 and absolutely better than the WKM currently on it.

Only question now is, how good is the gimbal stabilization? That will have to wait until I understand the basic platform a lot better and feel comfortable moving it to one of the hex with a camera gimbal.

Battery is just about charged, time for more tweaking, I leave with this relative size comparison of parts, DJI vs Zero UAV...

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Old May 19, 2012, 10:34 AM
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For those who don't want to deal with "9 pin serial" junk, here's a quick and working solution:
1) Order FrSKY USB Cable http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=16665
2) Pull out green, red, black wires out of it.
3) Pull out wires out of servo connector
4) Put wires into the empty servo connector in the following order RED | BLACK | GREEN from top to bottom, looking at the side of the servo connector.
5) Plug into COM1 on mainboard thingy.

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Old May 19, 2012, 10:38 AM
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United States, FL, Orlando
Joined Mar 2011
724 Posts
Dude, that just saved me like 6 feet of bulky ass cable, thanks!
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Old May 19, 2012, 10:44 AM
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United States, FL, Orlando
Joined Mar 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RTRyder View Post
I did get the correct value for declination, where I live its -14.9. The problem is no matter how I enter and save that value it, when I do a get afterwards it comes back as a positive 10.4 to 11.6 value, appears to be a bug in the firmware not allowing the negative value to be set correctly.

As for the oscillations, a change of props and a little tweaking session in the back yard with the Android phone in hand and it's flying OH so nicely now!

Adjustments to the PTZ roll and pitch sensitivity as well as Attitude sensitivity has smoothed out the oscillations, apparently this is equivalent of DJI pitch, roll, and ATTI gain settings only better.

I take off in Attitude mode and see how it flys, land, go to manual mode, make changes viua GCS app, take off and see how it flys. Needs adjustment? Just land and tweak it again with the phone! Only way it could be any easier is if the changes could be made on the fly while in the air. Maybe they can, I'm just not brave enough to try and that would really be a two person job anyway!

I have to say now I'm impressed, this platform is a lot more "tunable" than the WKM. A little gusty wind came up while I was last outside and with a couple tweaks I got it to smooth out nicely, I think this system will be far better on large frames than the WKM as it seems to have a lot more range of adjustment and tolerance for wind gusts, it rivals my MKs for stability in wind and I've only just begun to figure out how to tune it, with a lot more stick time I'm positive I can have this flying as well or better than an MK stack on my Cinestar 6 and absolutely better than the WKM currently on it.

Only question now is, how good is the gimbal stabilization? That will have to wait until I understand the basic platform a lot better and feel comfortable moving it to one of the hex with a camera gimbal.

Battery is just about charged, time for more tweaking, I leave with this relative size comparison of parts, DJI vs Zero UAV...


Ken,

I am sure you saw this in the other YS thread but just in case, one of the things they mentioned is that Magnetic Declination values are limited to +/- 12.7. Have you tried entering -12.7 which would be the lowest value the firmware allows? They should be fixing it soon to allow a greater variation of declinations, but I am able to change mine and the changes do stick. I am just thinking that since you're trying to set a value beyond it's range it might not be taking the input is all.
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Old May 19, 2012, 10:48 AM
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Boston, MA
Joined Jul 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blucross View Post
Ken,

I am sure you saw this in the other YS thread but just in case, one of the things they mentioned is that Magnetic Declination values are limited to +/- 12.7. Have you tried entering -12.7 which would be the lowest value the firmware allows? They should be fixing it soon to allow a greater variation of declinations, but I am able to change mine and the changes do stick. I am just thinking that since you're trying to set a value beyond it's range it might not be taking the input is all.
I just saw that, I'll try the max negative value and see what happens. Not allowing anything more than what the potential value could be would classify as a software bug in my book...

About to go out for another test flight.
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Old May 19, 2012, 10:51 AM
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So my idea of using xbee and leaving wifi module on the ground definitely works.
That should give much better range and no interference to stuff... right?
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Old May 19, 2012, 10:51 AM
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South France
Joined Jan 2008
1,186 Posts
thanks for your review !
I think that you not have to change the setting during flight
Maximus

Quote:
Originally Posted by RTRyder View Post
I did get the correct value for declination, where I live its -14.9. The problem is no matter how I enter and save that value it, when I do a get afterwards it comes back as a positive 10.4 to 11.6 value, appears to be a bug in the firmware not allowing the negative value to be set correctly.

As for the oscillations, a change of props and a little tweaking session in the back yard with the Android phone in hand and it's flying OH so nicely now!

Adjustments to the PTZ roll and pitch sensitivity as well as Attitude sensitivity has smoothed out the oscillations, apparently this is equivalent of DJI pitch, roll, and ATTI gain settings only better.

I take off in Attitude mode and see how it flys, land, go to manual mode, make changes viua GCS app, take off and see how it flys. Needs adjustment? Just land and tweak it again with the phone! Only way it could be any easier is if the changes could be made on the fly while in the air. Maybe they can, I'm just not brave enough to try and that would really be a two person job anyway!

I have to say now I'm impressed, this platform is a lot more "tunable" than the WKM. A little gusty wind came up while I was last outside and with a couple tweaks I got it to smooth out nicely, I think this system will be far better on large frames than the WKM as it seems to have a lot more range of adjustment and tolerance for wind gusts, it rivals my MKs for stability in wind and I've only just begun to figure out how to tune it, with a lot more stick time I'm positive I can have this flying as well or better than an MK stack on my Cinestar 6 and absolutely better than the WKM currently on it.

Only question now is, how good is the gimbal stabilization? That will have to wait until I understand the basic platform a lot better and feel comfortable moving it to one of the hex with a camera gimbal.

Battery is just about charged, time for more tweaking, I leave with this relative size comparison of parts, DJI vs Zero UAV...

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