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Old Jan 23, 2013, 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by t.edwards View Post
Does it have an available channel with a 3 position switch and an available channel operable with a knob?
Good question! I realy dont know
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Old Jan 23, 2013, 05:41 PM
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United States, TX, Richardson
Joined Oct 2011
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I have read through most of these 2955 posts but don't remember any comments that would answer my questions. So I apologize if this has already been covered.

I just got my Guardian 2D/3D and I have it installed on a foam profile plane, about 30 inch wingspan. It only has elevator and aileron controls, no rudder. My TX is a spectrum DX8. The elevator and aileron cables were connected so the corresponding signals go through the Guardian. I then connected the Mod cable from the Guardian to the Gear output of my RX, and connected the Gain cable to the Aux1 output of my RX. The Rud and Aux cables from the Guardian were left dangling.

Viewing the Monitor screen on my DX8 - when I set the Flap/Gyro switch to position 0 the monitor shows GER (Gear) to be +100%. With the switch in position 1 (center position), the monitor shows midpoint. With the switch in position 2, the monitor shows -100%.

The knob on the top right of the TX, marked Aux3 is used to adjust the master gain. With that knob turned fully counter-clockwise, the monitor shows Aux1 to be +100%. Turning the knob to it's center position shows the Aux1 to be centered. Turning the knob all the way clockwise and the Aux1 on the monitor goes to -100%. (This seems backwards to me, normally turning a knob clockwise increases the setting. Maybe there is a way to reverse this??)

OK, now for the real-world test. When I powered up my TX then my RX, there were some strange things going on but I finally got the Guardian set up like this. I set the Gain (Aux3 knob) to it's center position and I assume that is 50% master gain. I then set the individual gains of the aileron and elevator pots on the Guardian to a position where they seemed to do what they are supposed to do and there is no oscillations and no servo twitching when I set the plane down.

With the Flap/Gyro switch in the center position (1) the Guardian is turned off and the plane operates as nornal. When I move the switch to the 0 position (up) the Guardian comes to life in what certainly to me looks like the 2D mode. (The manual says this position puts it in 3D mode, so I'm confused by that).

At this point when I pick up the plane and roll it either way, the Guardian operates the ailerons to return the plane to level flight. If I pitch the plane up or down, the Guardian operates the elevator in the right direction to bring the plane back to the horizontal position. I further checked by applying some transmitter control to both of the control surfaces, then while holding those settings, I rotated and pitched the plane and it operated the controls correctly to return the plane to the position I gave it via my TX control. So all that seemed normal.

But here's the kicker! When I flip the Flap/Gyro switch to the 2 postion (down), the ailerons rapidly move to full deflection and stay there until I set the switch back to the 1 (center) position, or 0 (up) position. So what have I done wrong here? That rapid, full drive to the end of the servo travel scares me. In flight that would mean instant destruction, but even on the bench, the movement and noise makes me jump! I have GOT to fix this.

One other not so serious problem is that with the plane resting flat, no pitch, no roll, when I move the switch from 0 to 1, both the elevator and the ailerons shift their position slightly. They don't just twitch, they move and stay there. Obviously this would effect my trim if I were flying. Yes, I have re-initialized the Guardian several times, but it doesn't help.

I'm kind of with the guy who decided to sell his Guardian because it was just too danged complicated to set up. But maybe with some help from you guys I might be able to get through this. I would definitely want to fly it in 2D mode first, to have the wing leveling feature. So one punt option I have is to pull both the Mod and the Gain cables from the RX and let them hang. Per the manual this puts the Guardian in 2D mode and sets the gain at 50% (or 0% if you want to play with the -100% and +100% numbers). By doing this I should be able to have it set up the way I would set it up anyway. I probably wouldn't need to access the 3D mode for a while, but I WOULD like to be able to turn the Guardian OFF if I wanted to.

Sorry for the long post and I would appreciate any help.

Gus
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Old Jan 23, 2013, 06:15 PM
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Between my tx and crashed aircraft
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fotoflyer View Post
... I then connected the Mod cable from the Guardian to the Gear output of my RX, and connected the Gain cable to the Aux1 output of my RX. The Rud and Aux cables from the Guardian were left dangling.

Viewing the Monitor screen on my DX8 - when I set the Flap/Gyro switch to position 0 the monitor shows GER (Gear) to be +100%. With the switch in position 1 (center position), the monitor shows midpoint. With the switch in position 2, the monitor shows -100%.
...

With the Flap/Gyro switch in the center position (1) the Guardian is turned off and the plane operates as nornal. When I move the switch to the 0 position (up) the Guardian comes to life in what certainly to me looks like the 2D mode. (The manual says this position puts it in 3D mode, so I'm confused by that).
...

But here's the kicker! When I flip the Flap/Gyro switch to the 2 postion (down), the ailerons rapidly move to full deflection and stay there until I set the switch back to the 1 (center) position, or 0 (up) position. So what have I done wrong here? That rapid, full drive to the end of the servo travel scares me. In flight that would mean instant destruction, but even on the bench, the movement and noise makes me jump! I have GOT to fix this.
...
My guess: what the manual says is 3D mode (and you think is 2D mode) is indeed 3D mode.
And when you flip the Flap/Gyro switch down, that is when you enter 2D mode, which is where Guardian tries to keep the plane level (relative to "level" on the last "level" reset). The manual mentions that Guardian's LED will behave in a certain way in 2D mode, but I cannot recall at the moment.
Here the aileron and elevator should move to keep the plane level and will stay non-neutral until the plane is level.
If Guardian is not behaving correctly in 2D mode, it may be that you need to reset "level and trims" on the Guardian to tell it what it should consider as level and neutral Tx output.
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Old Jan 23, 2013, 06:15 PM
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Joined Aug 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fotoflyer View Post
I would appreciate any help.
Scroll down to Flap System on the tx screen.Click on it.
Set Flap Norm to -100%
Set Mid Flap to 0%
Set Land Flap to 100%
This should give you:
Flap switch up - 2D
Flap switch center - Off
Flap switch down - 3D
Scroll to Servo Setup. Click on it.
Got to Reverse, Gear and reverse the Gear channel.
Should fix you up.
To check go to the Monitor Screen.
Flap switch up should show -100%, middle 0%, down, 100%
Knob counter clockwise (looking down on the top of the knob) will show:
CCW -100%, Centered 0%, CW 100%
CCW is Gain Off, Centered is Mid, CW is Max Master Gain.
Guardian LED. Off is Off, On solid is 3D, Flashing is 2D.
Should straighten out your controls, now hook up your laptop and watch (and follow) the ET set-up video.
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Old Jan 23, 2013, 06:35 PM
Guardian Stabilizer
Joined Feb 2012
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The mother of all posts

choochoo22: Thanks for the excellently worded suggestion. I agree with everybody saying that the elimination of the use of percentages, pulse width indications and so forth is a good thing for the average flyer. Upon reading your explanation, I would like to quote it as a draft change to the manual. (See below)

Prof100: Thanks again for your feedback. Regarding the disconnected gain value's behavior as it is now, does it limit your ability to tune your models? Here are the big considerations: We want the Guardian to be able to work with a 4CH setup easily and with as much capability as is reasonable to provide with the limited I/O. Also, changing the behavior now would cause anybody operating without a Gain channel connected to experience a gain expansion of about 2x, which I think we can both agree would be bad.

Please understand that these design decisions were made in good faith for the reasons that I've outlined in my previous post. Perhaps it would have been a better idea to have the disconnected failsafe Master Gain set to full instead of half, but I fear that changing it now would have far worse consequences than to leave it as is. Now, unless there is a significant call to change the disconnected Master Gain behavior, I am going to focus on trying to fully document what exists in a clear and concise way.

Draft Proposal for new Master Gain Section in the manual: (Major changes in red)


Quote:
Originally Posted by choochoo22 View Post

Guardian Master Gain

The Master Gain increases or decreases the overall amplitude of the Pitch/Roll/Yaw gains and serves as a way to easily tune all three. If you have an RC controller that has an analog knob, this can be mapped to the Gain channel to allow for overall in-flight stabilization gain adjustment. The higher the gain knob setting, the stronger the Guardian’s stabilization effect will be.

Another way to think about this is that it is similar to a graphic equalizer and volume control on a stereo. The individual gains are similar to the sliders on the equalizer, and the Master Gain is similar to the overall volume control.

Ideally the Gain wire from the Guardian will be plugged into a channel controlled by a knob or slider on the transmitter. Other setups are possible and some will be mentioned later.

With all of the Pitch/Roll/Yaw potentiometers on the Guardian and the Master Gain on the transmitter at maximum the greatest overall gain is achieved. Caution: Too high a gain setting can result in oscillation, see the Oscillations section for more information on this. Turning the master knob to the opposite extreme will lower the overall gain to zero while positions in between will yield proportional gain. Lowering the individual potentiometer gains on the Guardian will lower the gain for that axis only and allow fine tuning. This might be desirable if, for instance, oscillation is encountered on one axis but not the others.

One possible strategy for setting gains would be to set all three axis potentiometers to max and the master to zero. While flying the plane with the Guardian engaged, slowly turn up the Master Gain and watch for signs of oscillation. If oscillation is encountered, back down the Master Gain until it ceases. With the plane on the ground, reduce the setting on the potentiometer for the axis for which oscillation was observed. Repeat until the plane can be flown with the Master Gain in its middle position without oscillation. If you have a plane with a wide speed range, such as a hovering 3D aircraft, conducting this procedure using only the mid range on the Master Gain will allow you later to turn it even higher when hovering or performing other slow speed aerobatic maneuvers as oscillation is seldom a problem under these conditions.

If you do not have a channel available for the Gain wire that can be controlled by a knob or slider you may use a two or three position switch to provide low/high or low/mid/high gains by adjusting the travel limits in your transmitter. If you have no available channel for the Gain wire, you may leave it disconnected. In this case the gain range of the on-board pots is reduced to approximately half of the maximum possible gain to reduce the possibility of encountering oscillation.

Note: If oscillations are experienced with no Master Gain available, reduce the airspeed. In the case of strong oscillations where model controllability is affected, switch the Guardian off immediately with the Mode switch. On the ground, reduce the potentiometer gain on the oscillating axis as described above.

Note: If connecting the Gain channel on a model where the Guardian had been previously tuned without it, ensure that the position of the Master Gain knob, slider or switch is set at its centered position to prevent the possibility of strong oscillations on take off. Finer tuning can be accomplished by trimming the Gain channel from its centered position.

Note: As with all transmitter controls, it may be necessary to reverse the Gain (or Mode) channel direction in the transmitter so the operating direction of the control suits your preference.
Some of this may be included into the "Tuning for Optimal Gains" section as well.

Thoughts / feedback are welcome!

Andre Germain: Ah, very good to hear. Definitely let us know if you ever see the behavior again and we'll get that sorted out for you.

goldsworthy: The Guardian has been tested to work great on every conventional fixed-wing model type. This includes turbine jets, which are very similar to high-end EDF systems like yours. That said, we recommend trying the Guardian on a lower value model first to ensure that you understand how it works and how to configure it without too much consequence. Finally, I would not recommend driving your vectored thrust servos with the Guardian. Keep the conventional control surfaces routed through the Guardian, but running the VT directly from your Rx will let you continue to disable that feature at will with a controller mix. If you have two rudder servos, you will need to use a y-cable to stabilize them both.

There are a lot of opinions out there, but it might be a good idea to maiden the model without the Guardian unless you have learned it on another airframe first. Configured correctly, the Guardian will make a maiden much easier, but like any other stabilization system out there, an improper configuration could lead to a crash.

fotoflyer: I could be wrong, but you might need to perform a "Reset Level Flight and Trims" gesture. To do this, place the model flat on the table and toggle your Mode switch Up/Down in the first 15 seconds after you power your model. Check out this video tutorial:
Guardian 2D/3D Stabilizer Tutorial (7 min 16 sec)

Finally, if you are attempting to mount the Guardian upside down, it may help to mount it right-side-up instead and perform another "Reset Level Flight and Trims" gesture. If all else fails, we have a great tech support resource where you're welcome to open a ticket!
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Old Jan 23, 2013, 07:10 PM
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Is there any way a setting could be added to set the disconnected Master Gain behavior and default it to the existing behavior?
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Old Jan 23, 2013, 07:19 PM
Rick
United States, CA, Santa Clara
Joined Mar 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fotoflyer View Post
I have read through most of these 2955 posts but don't remember any comments that would answer my questions. So I apologize if this has already been covered.

Gus
Gus
You have apparently done some things that are not completely described in your post. For example you said you plugged the mode wire into the gear channel and later describe changing modes with the 3 positions of the aux1 switch. For this reason I won't comment on how you have it set up now but rather just give you a good way to set up a DX8, which works very well with a Guardian by the way.
  1. Fly your plane and adjust your trims for good flying without the Guardian (you may have already done this).
  2. Use the switch assignment menu to assign the knob to the gear channel and plug the gain into that channel.
  3. Plug the mode wire into the aux1 (flap) channel with the 3 position switch.
  4. Set your model on a level surface with a slightly upward angle (positive angle of attack). If it's a tail dragger its natural resting position is a good place to start.
  5. Plug in your battery and between 5-15 seconds after doing so, switch aux1 to the 0 position, to the 2 position, and back to the zero position. Don't be too quick you have plenty of time. A couple of seconds later you should see the surfaces deflect briefly and return to center, once. If you don't see this the reset didn't "take", try doing it again slower. This process sets the Guardian to the trims and level specific to your installation and is critical, especially if your Guardian is or has been installed upside down.
  6. Double check the throws and Guardian corrections and you should be good to fly.
With this setup you can switch modes or turn the Guardian off with the aux1 switch and adjust gain with the knob. If you don't like the flight path in 2D, down or up angle, repeat step 4-5 with a slightly different angle of attack. This is trial and error and may take several tries to set it to your satisfaction. Avoid further adjustment of trims. If you do make trim change, repeat step 5 with two flicks on the mode switch instead of one, this will reset trims only and leave the level alone.

Whenever you install a radio into a new plane you always check the direction of motion of the surfaces relative to the control positions on the transmitter. Guardian is no different. If the knob or switch works backwards to your liking just reverse it. Some of the behavior you describe is attributable to not setting the trims and level, step 4-5.
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Last edited by choochoo22; Jan 23, 2013 at 07:41 PM.
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Old Jan 23, 2013, 07:55 PM
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Joined Jul 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John.T View Post
choochoo22: Thanks for the excellently worded suggestion. I agree with everybody saying that the elimination of the use of percentages, pulse width indications and so forth is a good thing for the average flyer. Upon reading your explanation, I would like to quote it as a draft change to the manual. (See below)

Prof100: Thanks again for your feedback. Regarding the disconnected gain value's behavior as it is now, does it limit your ability to tune your models? Here are the big considerations: We want the Guardian to be able to work with a 4CH setup easily and with as much capability as is reasonable to provide with the limited I/O. Also, changing the behavior now would cause anybody operating without a Gain channel connected to experience a gain expansion of about 2x, which I think we can both agree would be bad.

Please understand that these design decisions were made in good faith for the reasons that I've outlined in my previous post. Perhaps it would have been a better idea to have the disconnected failsafe Master Gain set to full instead of half, but I fear that changing it now would have far worse consequences than to leave it as is. Now, unless there is a significant call to change the disconnected Master Gain behavior, I am going to focus on trying to fully document what exists in a clear and concise way.

Draft Proposal for new Master Gain Section in the manual: (Major changes in red)




Some of this may be included into the "Tuning for Optimal Gains" section as well.

Thoughts / feedback are welcome!

Andre Germain: Ah, very good to hear. Definitely let us know if you ever see the behavior again and we'll get that sorted out for you.

goldsworthy: The Guardian has been tested to work great on every conventional fixed-wing model type. This includes turbine jets, which are very similar to high-end EDF systems like yours. That said, we recommend trying the Guardian on a lower value model first to ensure that you understand how it works and how to configure it without too much consequence. Finally, I would not recommend driving your vectored thrust servos with the Guardian. Keep the conventional control surfaces routed through the Guardian, but running the VT directly from your Rx will let you continue to disable that feature at will with a controller mix. If you have two rudder servos, you will need to use a y-cable to stabilize them both.

There are a lot of opinions out there, but it might be a good idea to maiden the model without the Guardian unless you have learned it on another airframe first. Configured correctly, the Guardian will make a maiden much easier, but like any other stabilization system out there, an improper configuration could lead to a crash.

fotoflyer: I could be wrong, but you might need to perform a "Reset Level Flight and Trims" gesture. To do this, place the model flat on the table and toggle your Mode switch Up/Down in the first 15 seconds after you power your model. Check out this video tutorial:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rt8Y3Lxnv-0
Finally, if you are attempting to mount the Guardian upside down, it may help to mount it right-side-up instead and perform another "Reset Level Flight and Trims" gesture. If all else fails, we have a great tech support resource where you're welcome to open a ticket!
John,

In an earlier post you said the following:

"Prof100: Thanks for your feedback on the Master Gain's disconnected behavior. The intention here was to allow the Guardian to operate in as many applications as possible. Having a default Master Gain value of 80% allows for a beginning user to push their starting gains without the possibility of going wildly out of range and introducing oscillations. "

In the latest post you have revised instructions that say 50% when Gain is unplugged. I don't care what it is, I just want to know what is correct. Which one is correct for disconnected Master Gain.

The Master Volume Control analogy is how I thought the Master Gain worked until I found that you could increase pot gain beyond the initial pot settings by turning up the Master Gain because the Master Gain multiplies the pot gain by some factor beyond 100% of the pot gain settings. I am on-hold using the Master Gain because the explanation is still a work in progress. How can you launch a product and have such disjointed instructions? Geeze. Cool product, innovative and amazing, but your instructions are terrible.

Please don't ask us to write your instructions. That's your job.
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Old Jan 23, 2013, 09:17 PM
Guardian Stabilizer
Joined Feb 2012
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Whoops, I forgot to attach my illustrations! There are two versions. The basic one focuses on the concepts and behaviors while the advanced one lets you precisely correlate the behavior at different dial positions.

John.T
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Old Jan 23, 2013, 10:29 PM
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United States, TX, Richardson
Joined Oct 2011
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First choochoo22, thank you very much for your informative reply.
Quote:
Originally Posted by choochoo22 View Post
Gus
You have apparently done some things that are not completely described in your post. For example you said you plugged the mode wire into the gear channel and later describe changing modes with the 3 positions of the aux1 switch.

I'm assuming that the switch on my TX labled as Flap/Gyro, is the Aux1 switch, even though it is not labeled as Aux1. I can't find any other switches that are labeled Aux1. The Aux2 (Gov) switch and Aux3 (the knob) ARE labeled with the Aux number. I could have been more clear if I would have called it the Flap switch, I suppose. On the Monitor screen, the positions of the Flap switch on my TX are shown on the GER line, as -100% in the 0 postion, 0% in the 1 position and +100% in the 2 position. Am I saying something wrong here?
For this reason I won't comment on how you have it set up now but rather just give you a good way to set up a DX8, which works very well with a Guardian by the way.
  1. Fly your plane and adjust your trims for good flying without the Guardian (you may have already done this).
  2. Use the switch assignment menu to assign the knob to the gear channel and plug the gain into that channel.
  3. Plug the mode wire into the aux1 (flap) channel with the 3 position switch.
  4. Set your model on a level surface with a slightly upward angle (positive angle of attack). If it's a tail dragger its natural resting position is a good place to start.
  5. Plug in your battery and between 5-15 seconds after doing so, switch aux1 to the 0 position, to the 2 position, and back to the zero position. Don't be too quick you have plenty of time. A couple of seconds later you should see the surfaces deflect briefly and return to center, once. If you don't see this the reset didn't "take", try doing it again slower. This process sets the Guardian to the trims and level specific to your installation and is critical, especially if your Guardian is or has been installed upside down.
  6. Double check the throws and Guardian corrections and you should be good to fly.
With this setup you can switch modes or turn the Guardian off with the aux1 switch and adjust gain with the knob. If you don't like the flight path in 2D, down or up angle, repeat step 4-5 with a slightly different angle of attack. This is trial and error and may take several tries to set it to your satisfaction. Avoid further adjustment of trims. If you do make trim change, repeat step 5 with two flicks on the mode switch instead of one, this will reset trims only and leave the level alone.

Whenever you install a radio into a new plane you always check the direction of motion of the surfaces relative to the control positions on the transmitter. Guardian is no different. If the knob or switch works backwards to your liking just reverse it. Some of the behavior you describe is attributable to not setting the trims and level, step 4-5.
Yes, I found the problem with the ailerons going all the way to one side when in 2D mode. I obviously set the trims and level with the plane upside down. I did a reset with the plane upright and now it's working as it should.

Since this is a flat piece of sheet foam with no airfoil in the wings and no angle of incidence in the wings, so when I set the trims and level, I positioned the plane angled up somewhat. If the elevator were to be sent to total straight, and I didn't give it any command from the TX, the plane would go down to the ground.

Now this other little problem still exists. The plane is sitting nice and steady with the up angle I mentioned. After resetting the trims and level, when I move the flap switch from 1 (off) to 2 (3D mode), nothing moves, which is good. However when I move the switch from 1 (off) to 0 (2D mode), both the elevator and the ailerons move (reposition themselves). In other words they move and stay moved. The amount is rather significant, very visible. The elevator moves up, and the ailerons move to the right roll. What am I doing wrong to cause this?
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Old Jan 23, 2013, 10:42 PM
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United States, TX, Richardson
Joined Oct 2011
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Thank you for your reply, I appreciate your help.

Quote:
Originally Posted by t.edwards View Post
Scroll down to Flap System on the tx screen.Click on it.
Set Flap Norm to -100%
Set Mid Flap to 0%
Set Land Flap to 100%
When I scroll down and click on the Flap System, I get a screen with all 8 channels listed on the left side with monitor slides. On the right side the word Flap is bold on the upper right. Below that is Inhibit. Scrolling the menu wheel does nothing. I cannot move or select anything on this screen. Actually the screen does not look right at all for a Flap setting screen. So I must have something else set up wrong. But fortunately, the flap switch was ALREADY set up the way you say it should be. So, for the moment, I'm ignoring this.
This should give you:
Flap switch up - 2D
Flap switch center - Off
Flap switch down - 3D
Scroll to Servo Setup. Click on it.
Got to Reverse, Gear and reverse the Gear channel. You didn't mention it but I also reversed the Knob (Aux3) and now my knob works correctly (fully CCW is -100%, center position is 0% and fully CW is +100%).Should fix you up.
To check go to the Monitor Screen.
Flap switch up should show -100%, middle 0%, down, 100%
Knob counter clockwise (looking down on the top of the knob) will show:
CCW -100%, Centered 0%, CW 100%
CCW is Gain Off, Centered is Mid, CW is Max Master Gain.
Guardian LED. Off is Off, On solid is 3D, Flashing is 2D.
Should straighten out your controls, now hook up your laptop and watch (and follow) the ET set-up video.
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Old Jan 23, 2013, 10:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fotoflyer View Post
Thank you for your reply, I appreciate your help.
Glad you got it. The end result is what counts. A DX8 must not be quite as much the same as a DX7s as I thought.
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Old Jan 23, 2013, 11:31 PM
Rick
United States, CA, Santa Clara
Joined Mar 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fotoflyer View Post
I'm assuming that the switch on my TX labled as Flap/Gyro, is the Aux1 switch, even though it is not labeled as Aux1. I can't find any other switches that are labeled Aux1. The Aux2 (Gov) switch and Aux3 (the knob) ARE labeled with the Aux number. I could have been more clear if I would have called it the Flap switch, I suppose. On the Monitor screen, the positions of the Flap switch on my TX are shown on the GER line, as -100% in the 0 postion, 0% in the 1 position and +100% in the 2 position. Am I saying something wrong here?
Yes, Spektrum is a bit inconsistent on the aux1/flap labeling and I'm afraid I was too. On my DX8 is says "flap" on the switch, aux1 on at least some of the receivers, and either AX1 or FLP in the menus depending on some other setting.

The fact that your flap settings appear on your GER line is unusual. It appears you have reassigned the knob to the aux1 channel and the flap switch to the gear channel in the switch assignments menu. This isn't what I would have done but it is not necessarily a problem. You should be able to see this in the switch assignments menu if you would like to verify.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fotoflyer View Post
First choochoo22, thank you very much for your informative reply.

Yes, I found the problem with the ailerons going all the way to one side when in 2D mode. I obviously set the trims and level with the plane upside down. I did a reset with the plane upright and now it's working as it should.

Since this is a flat piece of sheet foam with no airfoil in the wings and no angle of incidence in the wings, so when I set the trims and level, I positioned the plane angled up somewhat. If the elevator were to be sent to total straight, and I didn't give it any command from the TX, the plane would go down to the ground.

Now this other little problem still exists. The plane is sitting nice and steady with the up angle I mentioned. After resetting the trims and level, when I move the flap switch from 1 (off) to 2 (3D mode), nothing moves, which is good. However when I move the switch from 1 (off) to 0 (2D mode), both the elevator and the ailerons move (reposition themselves). In other words they move and stay moved. The amount is rather significant, very visible. The elevator moves up, and the ailerons move to the right roll. What am I doing wrong to cause this?
We were pretty sure some of your behavior problems would be fixed with a level reset, it looks like you have done this.

For the remaining problem, try this; Turn on the transmitter and set 2D mode. Plug in the battery in the plane and start counting off ten seconds. Put the plane down and don't touch it again. After ten seconds, flip mode to 3D for about a second, then back to 2D. You should see a confirming "blip" from Guardian. Now without touching the plane, try both modes and off. Typically I see little or no change off/3D but sometimes there is a small shift off/2D. As long as there are no radical changes you should be good to go.
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 01:58 AM
Registered User
United States, TX, Richardson
Joined Oct 2011
301 Posts
You wrote: "The fact that your flap settings appear on your GER line is unusual. It appears you have reassigned the knob to the aux1 channel and the flap switch to the gear channel in the switch assignments menu. This isn't what I would have done but it is not necessarily a problem. You should be able to see this in the switch assignments menu if you would like to verify."

Yes, I did assign the knob to the aux1 channel and the flap switch to the gear channel. But why is this not what you would have done? What WOULD you have done? The receiver is a 6 chan HK Orange RX and the two extra channels are marked Gear and Aux1. So that's why I connected them as I did.

On the control surface movement in switching from the 1 (off) position to the 0 (2D position, I reset the trims and level by having the mode switch to "Off", then at the 10 sec mark I flipped the swith to 2D, then 3D for about a second, then back to 3D. After doing this two times, now when I moved the switch between all three positions, the is NO movement at all.Great!

I think I'm getting close to having it all set up and ready to test fly!
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 03:20 AM
Rick
United States, CA, Santa Clara
Joined Mar 2011
2,016 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by fotoflyer View Post
Yes, I did assign the knob to the aux1 channel and the flap switch to the gear channel. But why is this not what you would have done? What WOULD you have done?
Not a big deal, I would have done as I said in #2-3 in my first response. Leave the flap channel alone and use the gear channel for gain. Fewer changes. The end result is the same but on different channels.

I'm glad you've got it sorted out and ready to go. You will be amazed at how that plane flies in 3D heading-hold.
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