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Old Feb 21, 2013, 09:14 AM
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acesimmer's Avatar
United States, NV, Fernley
Joined Oct 2011
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Thanks Damon.......

Any of you folks have a good way of doing nose gear door installations that have the springs in them to keep them open when gear deployed. I have never used this method where the LG pulls down on a wire attached to the doors. I have always used servos and sequencers. I'm trying to keep weigh down and keep life simple. Pics or advice appreciated.
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Old Feb 21, 2013, 09:23 AM
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bdelapen's Avatar
Miramar, FL
Joined Aug 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acesimmer View Post
Thanks Damon.......

Any of you folks have a good way of doing nose gear door installations that have the springs in them to keep them open when gear deployed. I have never used this method where the LG pulls down on a wire attached to the doors. I have always used servos and sequencers. I'm trying to keep weigh down and keep life simple. Pics or advice appreciated.
You could use spring loaded offset hinges like these, they will push the door open:
http://www.sonictronics.com/xcart/pr...9&cat=0&page=1
http://www.sonictronics.com/xcart/pr...cat=378&page=1

There are several ways to close the door (or doors) but one one of the ones I like best is this one that tumbler posted:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...0#post16840889

Regards,

- Birger
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Old Feb 21, 2013, 09:28 AM
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Miramar, FL
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Here is another good way to close the door:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...0#post18504666

- Birger
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Old Feb 21, 2013, 06:40 PM
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United States, NV, Fernley
Joined Oct 2011
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Birger... Thanks for the info. I never thought of getting pre-sprung hinges derrrrr. I'll sure buy a bunch. Its fascinating to see the different techniques used.... bring it on.

A few changes. I was going to dump the test fuselage and build a new one which would be super light weight in the tail. That would change my CG significantly allowing me to use lighter internal structures and move stuff back a little which would be preferred. I would also lose a 1 lb or more in overall weight.

However, I thought to test a couple of new paints on the fuse and see how they perform. I started with the chrome exhaust shields and loved the way it looked. Soooo I got carried away and started detailing the plane. Instead of dumping the old scratched up canopy I also got into popping in a couple of instrument panels then re-glued the old ill fitting canopy. When the weather breaks I'll build a new vacuum box and make my own more to scale. So I'll make up the decals and get this thing looking a bit nicer. The test flight was so good and the plane is solid and predictable unlike the foam ones that bounce around. I'll just fly this until something breaks then replace it.
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Old Mar 02, 2013, 10:14 PM
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Australia, NSW, Sydney
Joined Dec 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acesimmer View Post
I started with the chrome exhaust shields and loved the way it looked. Soooo I got carried away and started detailing the plane. Instead of dumping the old scratched up canopy I also got into popping in a couple of instrument panels then re-glued the old ill fitting canopy.

Looking good. Instruments are perfect.
I guess a lightweight airframe would be a bonus.
I wish my building skills were more inline with yours
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Old Mar 03, 2013, 08:58 PM
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Very nice work on the T28.

Cheers,
Eric B.
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Old Mar 23, 2013, 04:19 PM
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United States, NV, Fernley
Joined Oct 2011
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Roxy our prototype test airframe had a face lift. I upgraded the landing gear to the larger retracts. Added the 580KV from 500KV and removed 3 oz of nose weight. So we are now down to albs 5 oz with 4S 3300 mah battery. The CG actually moved forward enough to remove the weight and be able to go with the smaller battery pack. Due to the motor upgrade we should get the same power for those big loops we are able to do on 5S at 60% power.

If all goes well with the smaller pack then I'll pop in the 5S and see what explodes first. Weather is supposed to be warm and calm tomorrow so off to the airport for more flight testing. We also have airframe #3 almost ready for flight test. #3 is so much lighter in the tail area when fresh out of the molds. By shaving several ounces off the tail I can move the battery back onto the CG which should allow a weight saving of at least 8-12 oz. The test model was built strong hence the weight. Using a modified layup technique I can now get the stiffness yet keep it lighter.
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Old Mar 23, 2013, 04:41 PM
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Can't wait!
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