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Old Aug 16, 2011, 10:25 PM
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All steel 1/6 scale R/C tank build. Help!

I'm planning on building a 1/6" scale RC tank (VK1602 Leopard), using 1/4" armour steel plate. I already have the plate, and am working on the cardboard templates to cut the panels. I'm going to have the tracks custom cast in iron as well.

Proposed drivetrain will be hybrid, by means of coupling a lawnmower motor to a car alternator, hooked up to a car battery and voltage regulator, to feed all of the controllers, both tread motors, the turret traverse and gun elevation servos, and the gun firing servo.

Size will be about 1.10m long x 5.50m wide x 0.5 m tall.

I estimate that this beast will weigh in around 200lbs or so. However, I have failed to find a pair of 12V electric motors capable of moving this beast at the required 10 km/h. I have also failed to find if there are gearboxes that would allow me both a low and a high gear without employing additional channels. I really want to keep this monster to 5 or 6 channels at most (one for each tread motor, one for turret traverse, one for turret elevation, one for firing the gun, and one for rotating a figure).

Anyone know how I can accomplish this?

Thanks for your your help,
LavaRed
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Old Aug 18, 2011, 01:42 AM
1/16 Metal Tiger I
Aero-Mate's Avatar
Shenzhen,China
Joined May 2009
169 Posts
Hi,LavaRed
Try a 1/6 scale tank, look how they did for motors and gear
I recommand you to try brushless system for your tank
a 36mm brushless motor can make a 400w. Two for 800W. Is this enough?
About RC system, we use a MF( sounds/mix/light) unit, then 4 channels is enough to fulfill a lot of functions:
Jack
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Old Aug 27, 2011, 01:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Aero-Mate View Post
Hi,LavaRed
Try a 1/6 scale tank, look how they did for motors and gear
I recommand you to try brushless system for your tank
a 36mm brushless motor can make a 400w. Two for 800W. Is this enough?
About RC system, we use a MF( sounds/mix/light) unit, then 4 channels is enough to fulfill a lot of functions:
Jack
Thanks, where can I find these supplies, and how can I wire 4 channels for all the functions?

Thanks,
LavaRed
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Old Aug 31, 2011, 10:57 PM
Scale Nut
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1/4" Plate?

Did you say 1/4" steel plate, or did I misread that? Might want to do some calculations on the weight of the tub. 1/4" plate weighs 10.2 pounds psf. You might be lucky to move it off the bench.
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Old Aug 31, 2011, 11:38 PM
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Originally Posted by hammerondown View Post
Did you say 1/4" steel plate, or did I misread that? Might want to do some calculations on the weight of the tub. 1/4" plate weighs 10.2 pounds psf. You might be lucky to move it off the bench.
Yes, I did say 1/4" armoured steel plate. I've actually tested it and it will stop most pistol rounds up to .44 magnum out of a carbine. Of course I plan to protect the electronics with a further layer of kevlar planels. And I might go 1/2" armour steel on the front glacis plate and front turret plate, if the panels I have are the right size.

I'm estimating a finished weight of around 200 lbs total.

I want this beast to be virtually indestructible. The torsion bar suspension is going to be made from actual machined stainless spring steel.
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Old Sep 01, 2011, 03:00 PM
Amped UP!
Saint Cloud FL
Joined Jan 2007
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Originally Posted by LavaRed View Post
Yes, I did say 1/4" armoured steel plate. I've actually tested it and it will stop most pistol rounds up to .44 magnum out of a carbine. Of course I plan to protect the electronics with a further layer of kevlar planels. And I might go 1/2" armour steel on the front glacis plate and front turret plate, if the panels I have are the right size.

I'm estimating a finished weight of around 200 lbs total.

I want this beast to be virtually indestructible. The torsion bar suspension is going to be made from actual machined stainless spring steel.
Are you planning to shoot at this tank with real rounds?
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Old Sep 02, 2011, 01:54 AM
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Are you planning to shoot at this tank with real rounds?
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Old Sep 04, 2011, 08:46 PM
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Alright, having sorted out the motor availability issue, I have another question.

Using the 24V scooter motors will mean I'll have to use 2 car batteries in series. I'll be using at least one 12V stepper for turret traverse, another for gun elevation, and another for firing the main gun. The final channel might be used to install a camera or something, if possible, so that aiming the gun is possible.

So, if I use one of these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-4G-6CH-Rad...ht_4234wt_1141

or

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Futaba-6J-2-...item3f0a4c2b13

How would I wire all the electornics onto the Receiver on the tank, in order to achieve all the tank-like functions?

Also, Would it be possible to purchase a transmitter, and then, separately, 2 3 channel receivers, so that one receiver can be installed on the tank chassis to control the two tracks and turret traverse, and the other one directly in the turret to control turret elevation and the camera, each with it's separate antenna (like in the "real" VK1602), and thus just needing power transfer to the turret, which, by means of a 3.5mm plug, will allow full 360 degree turret rotation?

Thanks,
LavaRed

I apologise for all the seemingly dumb questions. It's just that this is my first build of any kind.
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Old Feb 01, 2012, 04:16 PM
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United States, OR, Portland
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Dude, you are actually building a real tank! Not a bad idea for home defense actually!
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Old Feb 02, 2012, 07:30 PM
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Xiaoshan, China
Joined Jun 2006
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Here's a nice reference site to help keep you motivated while you cut that "armored" steel plate.

http://infinity63.com/voennaya-texnika.html

Harbor Freight sells hacksaw blades in bulk if you're looking for a deal.
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Old Feb 02, 2012, 09:27 PM
40 years of model tanks - AGW
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Originally Posted by LavaRed View Post
Yes, I did say 1/4" armoured steel plate. I've actually tested it and it will stop most pistol rounds up to .44 magnum out of a carbine. Of course I plan to protect the electronics with a further layer of kevlar planels. And I might go 1/2" armour steel on the front glacis plate and front turret plate, if the panels I have are the right size.

I'm estimating a finished weight of around 200 lbs total.

I want this beast to be virtually indestructible. The torsion bar suspension is going to be made from actual machined stainless spring steel.
What a fascinating project..

Couple of questions, why is bullet proof a requirement? 1/4" steel plate is going to be heavy, I also agree you may want to revise your weight estimate. I have a 1/10 scale King Tiger that is mostly cast aluminum, which also is about 1/4" thick on average and it weighs around 90 pounds.

Lastly, the cast iron tracks will effectively defeat your steel plate because unlike
armor plate cast iron tracks won't be bullet proof. If you mistyped and meant to say "cast in steel" kudos to you as this will be one heck of an expensive project!

You might consider lowering your sights a few clicks fir your first project but hey,
may as well go all in.....

Jerry

Good luck with that.
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Old Aug 05, 2012, 02:51 AM
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UPDATE: The hull has been built. Working on the suspension and tracks

So, It's been almost a year, but I have finally had the hull built. I am now working on the suspension and tracks, more on that later. First, the hull:





Cut turret plates not welded yet (Mantlet and rear plate still being cut, plus will add an outer layer of armour plate with composite layered ceramic/aramid armour in between:



The turret needs to be the most protected because all of the electronics except the batteries and engine will be mounted in it, to allow for full 360 degree rotation. Also, it needs to withstand recoil because it will sport a fully working, hopper fed 18 mm chain- cannon.

So, for the suspension, I have ordered the parts machined. 12 roadwheels per side, two per axle, 6" diameter, for a total of 24 wheels. 12 torsion bars mounted on bearings, just like the Tiger tank suspension. The torsion bars are 1/2" diameter and machined from real torsion steel.

My problem right now is the wheels. Normal commercial trolley wheels seem to be too expensive and mostly plastic. Definitely not strong enough for this. Having them custom cast from iron and bearing individually fitted might be too expensive, because it's 24 wheels plus 4 idlers. Any ideas?

In regards to the track, having each tread cast from iron might be very expensive, plus it requires 4 custom sprockets. I was thinking about maybe using regular sprockets and 100 roller chain, and bolting each tread to the chains. Does this sound like a good idea?

I'm trying to save most of the resources for the gun, because it will require a custom-made 40" long 18mm smoothbore barrel, custom receiver and mechanism, and custom rounds (I'm designing both blank, birdshot, and solid brass rifled slug ammunition, for full authenticity). A recoil-spring assisted servo will operate the gun. The mechanism alone is quite frankly a work of art, if I say so myself.

Electronics wise, I purchased two Schwinn 350W motors, a 30amp double speed controller with 5v BEC from Robot marketplace, and a used Futaba conquest 6ch tx/rx set that includes 6 servos. With the sevos using worm-gears and the turret and gun mounted on industrial bearings, the small motors should be quite up to the task. It will also sport a small 1/3" 800mW camera attached to an old Weaver D4 4x28 scope, both of which will be mounted on and elevated with the gun. That way remote aiming is possible. And since the camera lacks IR filters, I purchased a 12VDC IR illuminator with photosensor, so that I can operate at night as well.

I estimate this project will take a futher year to complete, as I am subcontracting most of the machine work and that takes lots of time.
But at least it has left the drawing board now.

The hull alone weighted in at 120lbs. Weight estimate has gone up to 300lbs.
And yes, that is 1/4" armour plating, with a solid 12" armour slab on the front.

Enjoy and please advise!

Thanks,
Lava

EDIT: I also forgot to add. If the weight permits, once completed, I will bolt on additional 1/2" armour plate to the rear, and add modular Schurzen to the sides above the tracks, with sandwiched ceramic/aramid modules in between as well, in order to give it the best possible protection. I will also man it with 1/6" figures if I can find space for them inside .

Also forgot to add. It will no longer be a VK1602 Leopard replica, but an all new tank of my own design, an MBT.
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Old Aug 13, 2012, 12:00 PM
Amped UP!
Saint Cloud FL
Joined Jan 2007
705 Posts
My question is why so much armor protection? Not to me nosy but, are you really planning to shoot at this tank? Why?
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Old Aug 13, 2012, 04:02 PM
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United States, OR, Portland
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Originally Posted by AR1516 View Post
My question is why so much armor protection? Not to me nosy but, are you really planning to shoot at this tank? Why?
I can only think of one reason, and it is because AWESOME
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Old Aug 13, 2012, 09:40 PM
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My question is why so much armor protection? Not to me nosy but, are you really planning to shoot at this tank? Why?
Yup. I am, actually. I mean, the opportunity to actually have a model tank that resists AP rifle rounds is too sweet to pass up.

In that same vein, I have decided to go with soft-tracks instead of the cast steel ones. I realised that tracks made out of a soft material are far less likely to be disabled by gunfire, as it will go through them isntead of breaking them. On the other hand, the cost of having them cast proved to be far too high (over US$6,000). I would rather save that budget for the development of the gun and its propietary cartridges. Also, I might save up to 50lbs weight with the soft tracks.

So the new model tracks will be about 6" (150mm) wide, made out of industrial conveyor-belt material (scrapped), and will be riveted to #100 roller-chains, which the sprockets shall engage. I might add segments of sheet steel underneath the track for support, if it falls within the budget. I believe this is a very feasible method. The only drawback is how to rivet the belt onto the chains and still leave enough room for the sprockets to engage. Any ideas?

Thanks,
Lava
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