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Old Oct 11, 2014, 04:56 PM
start slow and taper off
falconhob's Avatar
Victoria, BC
Joined Sep 2004
247 Posts
Build Log
Scale Build-off 4 - Fly2Build 1/8 Grumman Goose

Well, I’m finally up to starting my winter project. It looks like I’ll have a bit more time on my hands than I usually do, so I can ponder my mistakes well in advance of making and posting them for all to see...

The kit is from Fly2Build.com, Mike MacFarland’s shop that has some beautiful CAD designed and laser cut kits. If you’ve seen the build thread on his Spruce Goose, you’ll know the quality in these short kits. I’ve had this one under the bench for a while, and it’s popped to the top of the list in the middle of my Grumman Albatross build for various reasons.

“Hi, my name is Wayne, and I like flying boats.” Something to do with living on an island I guess.

My first build project was the Martin Mars from Ivan Pettigrew and I have a long list of waterborne designs to complete, some kits, some plans, some just neat ideas…
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Last edited by falconhob; Oct 15, 2014 at 10:17 AM. Reason: Joined scale build off
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Old Oct 11, 2014, 04:59 PM
start slow and taper off
falconhob's Avatar
Victoria, BC
Joined Sep 2004
247 Posts
Fortunately, I’m not the first to build this kit, as some pioneers have provided some great reference material in build threads. The first is the prototype build from Capt Ahab which is a masters class is building. It also includes some work from TAM on his build later in the thread. GeoffinIN walked us through his build here so there's not a whole lot I can do other than fill in the blanks as I go and hope it helps the next builder.

Anyway, the Goose kit is beautifully packed, with bundles of parts in padded plastic wrappings. The wood is very nice, the plywood excellent, and the laser cutting top notch. The kit includes 3 full size plotted plans, and F2B offers an array of accessories including power systems, etc. to finish the kit. Being a short kit, you will have to add your own sheeting, spruce, and a few other bits to complete. Sorry, I was so excited I forgot to take a picture
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Old Oct 11, 2014, 05:00 PM
start slow and taper off
falconhob's Avatar
Victoria, BC
Joined Sep 2004
247 Posts
I should mention that I finally treated myself to a flat building table. I kept my eyes on Craigslist for a piece of ½” or thicker glass and scored a perfect 30” by 60” piece of 5/8” from a deck company for $50. I slid it onto my bench and now I have a FLAT building surface. I was surprised and how, umm, less-than-flat my bench actually was. I topped it with a piece of galvanized sheet steel and I now have a great magnetic building surface.

For no particularly good reason, I like to sit down and separate all the parts from the sheets to save time when I actually get around to building. Most pieces have the part number laser etched on the part, however in some cases the reference was adjacent to the part, so a quick note with the pen on the part and we’re good to go. Most pieces fell out of the sheets with light pressure, a few needed a nudge with the x-acto. One of the 1/8” plywood sheets needed a bit more effort at one end but nothing unusual. After a quick sand with the sanding bar to get the nibs off the part, I pack all the pieces for each major assembly together. The bags help when I get distracted and start another build mid build…

Save the cut-out scrap as well, as there’s enough wood there to help make many of the additional pieces called for in the build.
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Old Oct 11, 2014, 05:03 PM
start slow and taper off
falconhob's Avatar
Victoria, BC
Joined Sep 2004
247 Posts
I like to start with the tail feathers to get my stride, so I brought out the pieces. This design uses a spline approach, so each rib is actually two halves. Rather than mix those up, I left separating them until I was ready to use them.

You’ll have to fit the spline together using the outline of the stab for reference. I used thin CA for this, but will use Titebond for the majority of the build. I even have one of the Honeypot ™ keepers for the syringe, made from a Coca-Cola Christmas ornament (weird idea for an ornament… was so heavy the branches sagged. Tasted good tho!).
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Old Oct 11, 2014, 05:06 PM
start slow and taper off
falconhob's Avatar
Victoria, BC
Joined Sep 2004
247 Posts
With the spline ready, just lock the riblets (mmmmm, riblets...) into their notches based on the part#. You really can’t go wrong, as they won’t fit anywhere but where they are supposed to go. Add the tip fillers and the control horn support and let dry. I chose to add the laser cut TE to the stab and LE to the elevator before gluing the riblets on the other side, the theory being it would help hold everything square. I also glued in the plywood spars (in one side only) although you don’t need to do it now.
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Old Oct 11, 2014, 05:11 PM
start slow and taper off
falconhob's Avatar
Victoria, BC
Joined Sep 2004
247 Posts
You will need to decide which side will have the rudder horn vs. the elevator horn (opposite sides) as you have to double up the horn support blocks on that side only. I have the rudder on the port side and elevator on the starboard (I can’t see how it makes a difference).

I chose to make the elevator leading edges by tracing the laser cut LE onto some ¼” and pre drilling the hinge holes before gluing in place. The hinge support blocks are just 1/8” by ½” squares cut from kit scraps. The elevator joiner is 1/8” tubing (I used brass as the aluminum I have is too soft). The plans show how to make up the four ¼”x1/8” supports for the joiner tube, which is then capped with ¼ by 5/8”. I’ll glue the tube in during final assembly.
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Old Oct 11, 2014, 05:14 PM
start slow and taper off
falconhob's Avatar
Victoria, BC
Joined Sep 2004
247 Posts
Rudder

The same process applies for the fin and rudder. The LE is easier to sand to shape if done before you mount it. The LE of the rudder needs slots to clear the hinges, so if you mark them out on the back of the LE piece first, round the piece, then backsaw the hinge slots ¾ the way through from the back, when you glue the LE in place you can just finish the last bit of sawing to have perfect slots. Although I’m sure there’s an easier way ;-)
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Old Oct 11, 2014, 05:17 PM
start slow and taper off
falconhob's Avatar
Victoria, BC
Joined Sep 2004
247 Posts
Next up are the wing floats. Of course, I want to have retracting tip floats, so I can’t finish planking the floats until I have the retract system designed. The assembly is pretty straight forward, same process as the tail surfaces. You will have to laminate (or just use 1/8” square) the lower chine edge of the hulls; just wet the wood first. I stripped some 1/8” wide pieces off some scrap 1/16” sheet for this with my handy Master Airscrew wood stripper.
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Old Oct 14, 2014, 03:15 PM
start slow and taper off
falconhob's Avatar
Victoria, BC
Joined Sep 2004
247 Posts
In order to start the wings, I need some spruce and more sheeting that I don’t have, so I need to hunt down some wood. Until that happens, I decided to start the nacelles. Be sure to make one left and one right, and keep them nice and square. I use a small metal square held in place by magnets - works pretty well.

Everything clicks together nicely. I need to get some smaller magnets, as the holes in the cowl rings and nacelle’s are smaller than the magnets I have on hand. I'm toying with the idea of reducing the diameter of the front face to provide some airflow vs. having the cowl will end up sitting flush. I think I'll sleep on that one...

Slept on it. No need to change anything, as there is already a 1/2" or so difference in the diameters.
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Old Oct 14, 2014, 03:24 PM
start slow and taper off
falconhob's Avatar
Victoria, BC
Joined Sep 2004
247 Posts
The fuse build is pretty straight-forward, with the front portion being a big box with mostly flat sides. I just copied what the Captain showed in his thread. One thing that isn’t clear on the plans (I may have just missed it...) is the front most upright between F1 and F8, middle one over F15 and the rear most one over F19 appear to be ¼" by 3/16”. At least, that’s what I’ve made them out of .

I’ve cut out two of everything as I go, and no, I’m not brave enough to glue them together on top of each other! Since the magnets sometimes get in the way, I’ll do one side, let it dry, then lay down the wax paper and glue the other side together in duplicate.

Laminate the left and right side upper wing seat formers (notches facing each other), and lay up the keel and fuse side chines by wetting the balsa and letting it dry overnight. Then you can laminate the keel (I went with two 1/8” square strips, but the four 1/16” strips mentioned in the plans would theoretically be stronger).
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Old Oct 14, 2014, 03:26 PM
start slow and taper off
falconhob's Avatar
Victoria, BC
Joined Sep 2004
247 Posts
For a break from the excitement of cutting cross pieces (pro-cras-ti-na-a-tion, it’s making me wait…) I glued together the rear fuse and fin assembly. Well, half of it anyway. I’m trying to figure out a way to keep it straight while gluing on the other side’s formers? Current thinking is to stand it vertically with a bunch of brackets, and hang them off the side, squaring them as I go. Hmmm.
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Old Oct 14, 2014, 04:26 PM
start slow and taper off
falconhob's Avatar
Victoria, BC
Joined Sep 2004
247 Posts
Back to the fuse box, I’ve cut and fit the crosspieces, and now have two matching sides. Ended up having to tweak one joint that slipped by 1/16” but now it’s ready to go. Next up is doing the sheeting for the sides which I figure will be easier before I glue the cross pieces together.

I have this tool for making wing skins which is a piece of 90 degree alum bolted to a piece of 3” C channel stock. The 90’ has sandpaper glued to it (I was given this 3m stuff from the doc’s office; it's used to sand the hair off your body for connecting electrodes ). Most sheeting bows a bit, and this allows you to straighten the edges so that you don’t have gaps for glue to get through the seams. Take your sheeting, use a long sanding bar to grip it, run a few passes along the back until the bow or gap is gone, and you’re all set.

The provided piece in the kit (with the windows) aligns with the top of the fuse former, so using the notch at the top rear, piece together your sheeting. I left an additional ¼” at the front and rear to accommodate the curve of the fuse sides. Using 3” sheet you’ll need 3 per side; 4” you can probably get away with two. Since all I have on hand is 3”, 6 sheets it is! There are a few places where you'll have to jigsaw puzzle a couple of pieces in. I use Sigment/ambroid for sheeting as it sands nicely if you do get some on the wood.
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Last edited by falconhob; Oct 15, 2014 at 10:26 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old Oct 15, 2014, 02:34 PM
Slip the surly bonds...
Sopwith Mike's Avatar
Christchurch,England
Joined Aug 2004
2,655 Posts
We should all just go home and take up knitting! This is a fabulous kit...and such a quick build.

*Envy*
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Old Oct 15, 2014, 09:40 PM
start slow and taper off
falconhob's Avatar
Victoria, BC
Joined Sep 2004
247 Posts
It is a beautiful kit. Looking forward to meeting you at Chilliwack next Spring for some quality Grumman flying time!
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Old Oct 15, 2014, 10:00 PM
start slow and taper off
falconhob's Avatar
Victoria, BC
Joined Sep 2004
247 Posts
While I'm hanging tight on a response from Mike regarding the retracts, I decided to get some work in on the wings. I will be modifying them to have the retractable tip floats, so some quick sketching (sorry, not CAD literate yet) of the retract assembly and the location of the float as the wing tip were done. I never like to mess up plan, so it's in pencil The only thing I'm a little unsure of is the length of the strut; it's farther out the wing, so taking the dihedral into account, the strut should be a bit longer than the stock location struts. It'll only be a matter of millimeters and I can just move the location of the retract unit to make it right, although I would like to just snug it up to the rib for structural strength. If you squint, you should be able to make out the outline of the tip float under the magnet in the picture.

Also did the lamination of the wing ribs for the tube spar reinforcement. I'm held up a bit waiting for wood, but can at least get all the ribs set up and laid out, the balsa rear spars in place, LE, TE, ailerons etc.

I'm also going to put flaps on it. I know it doesn't need them, but this plane is being purpose built for flying at a notoriously windy lake. I'm expecting with all the extras it's going to be 8lb plus (which is fine for the wind), so I'd like to have the flaps available to get back some slow flight capabilities. I think they'll be pretty straight forward, but as they are split flaps will need some more thought. More doodling to do!
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