Building a TF 1/5 scale mustang can get costly when you start buying all the extras so I decided to use what came with the kit to detail and make it semi scale. There is no good thread that I could find to do this, but I found bits & pieces of how to do it and figured the rest out myself.
Thought this would be a good place to see work others have done and show you what I did and how I did it. Components of the slide system are styrene tube, I beam, angle and misc. flat stock.

Once I figured out the changes to cockpit opening ( they were minor) I had to add a little fillett to the inside edges so the slide tubes would square and paralle( same distance appart) thats important.Then I cut a slot through the center of 3/16in. tube with micro saw and widened the gap with a emery board with sand paper removed from one side so the I beam would slide through it smoothly. I used a micro plane to shave a tiny bit off both sides of the lower beam web so it would slide in it.

A filler strip was added to bottom of I beam to act as a filler for a nice fit. This styrene has a solvent adhisive that weldes this stuff together and it's better than canopy cement.but use canopy cement when glueing parts to plane and you won't have worry about vibration shaking anything loose.

I lined the inside of canopy frame with 1/32 plywood to attach mount for slide and canopy brace and maintain shape.I made brace out of 1/8th ply, it holds width and acts as support when open.

I'll answer any questions you may have if you decide to do something like this and I hope others will add what they know about doing this. Leroy

Finishing up the build. After installing slide tube slide in the I beams and mount the whole canopy.I secured it with 4 screws in the wind screen, put the brace in it first you have to be able to access through the bottom to draw a line on the inside frame useing slide rails for guide, also mark the length of rails, this is where the angels mount that attach to the mating I beams.Now is when you cut the bubble from the wind screen.

I made angles from a heavier I beam because 3/8" styrene angles are too light and I drilled and tapped them with 2-56 tap and useing the marks for location screwed them on. Clamp them on first and drill with 1/16" two locations. Enlarge canopy holes to 3/32" and counter sink so screws fit flush. I used 2-56x3/16" screws for this. The angle will have to be tapered because it narrows from front to rear. you'll set it back on to get it right, then cut a couple of pieces 1/16" styrene to join the I beam and angles with a dab of canopy cement on each end to hold it together, you"ll finish the bond with solvent adhesive after you slide it out. Take the brace off first.. All this has to be done from the bottom access.

Cut two strips of .060 thick styrene 5/16" wide and glue it to front lip of bubble with 1/8" over hang and taper it so it fits under wind screen when closed, it will prevent air from getting under it and ripping it off in flight.

Those screws that hold rail to canopy are not ot be used alone but they will be used to hold it in place when it's glued on useing canopy cement. Leroy

Hi Leroy,
One thing I cannot see on your good looking project, is how the canopy is situated to the rear. It looks elevated at the rear when open. The P-51 canopy has a center rail at the rear and the canopy rear does not stick up in the air, but follows the fuselage lines as it trails this rear centerline rail.
The stock Mustang's cockpit opening was longer at the rear than your model's, and the interference of the cross rail brace will not be an issue. I only mention these in a constructive vein and applaud your building and posting.

I love your clean construction and wish you luck with your build.

Chris...

Chris, your right and I tried to figure that out. When you buy a sliding canopy for around $125 or so all of that is addressed and makes it easy. My canopy slides straight back because of the interferience created by trying to slope rails downward so canopy would follow slope of body line behind it.Part of the problem may be that my I beam is the same length as the slide tube and a relief can be seen where it clears body when slid open.

I was'nt concerned with the slot aft of bubble because it's a manual open and just for static viewing, two screws hold it shut. As a after thought if the I beam had been 1in.. and rails tapered downward it would have probably worked out .I would have to increase arch in brace, this may still be doable ?.

Thanks for input thats what these forums are for and I've never done this before. Leroy

Leroy , if you want to make it move easily , you can convert a regular servo to linear for about $11.00 , hide in the radio box area usually seen in the rear of the canopy , you have the skill to do that easily from what I have seen

LDM I'm kinda stuck with manual slide, my radio is full up, 7 channels is all I have and I'm not going to invest in a 8 or 9 channel . I never thought I would need more than 7 at the time, I did'nt have a plane with more than 6. Was lacking fore sight I guess,"Oh well". Thanks for the kind words, Leroy

Originally Posted by Leroy Gardner

LDM I'm kinda stuck with manual slide, my radio is full up, 7 channels is all I have and I'm not going to invest in a 8 or 9 channel . I never thought I would need more than 7 at the time, I did'nt have a plane with more than 6. Was lacking fore sight I guess,"Oh well". Thanks for the kind words, Leroy

Leroy put it on a channel like FLAPS or kill switch.

yep , My thougts exactly Splinters , too good looking to move by hand

Well you guys have caused some confusion here, how can you connect to a channel that is used for something else?" Landing fellas", "hey something came off the plane", you see that?, Yea, Leroy droped the flaps and I think the canopy came off. Huh, he must of forgot he connected canopy servo to flaps. " What am I, stupid? or am I missing something here Leroy

Originally Posted by Leroy Gardner

Well you guys have caused some confusion here, how can you connect to a channel that is used for something else?" Landing fellas", "hey something came off the plane", you see that?, Yea, Leroy droped the flaps and I think the canopy came off. Huh, he must of forgot he connected canopy servo to flaps. " What am I, stupid? or am I missing something here Leroy

No Leroy nobodies calling you stupid!! all we are saying is to use a channel that is used for some thing like landing lights, flaps so when you come in the canopy will be open when you land, or if you have a kill switch when you use that the canopy will open it all depends on how you have your plane set up. it would be very cool to have it automatic that is all we were saying you have done such a great job it's just one more nice touch that's all good luck it will look great how ever you go. P.S. Leroy I for got to say just use a Y harness to connect to the channel in the RX.

Originally Posted by splinterz25

No Leroy nobodies calling you stupid!! all we are saying is to use a channel that is used for some thing like landing lights, flaps so when you come in the canopy will be open when you land, or if you have a kill switch when you use that the canopy will open it all depends on how you have your plane set up. it would be very cool to have it automatic that is all we were saying you have done such a great job it's just one more nice touch that's all good luck it will look great how ever you go. P.S. Leroy I for got to say just use a Y harness to connect to the channel in the RX.

Sorry, I did'nt mean to imply you called me stupid, I was like thinking out loud and typed it in there. You guys have some good ideas and I appreciate the input. This is how I learn and there is plenty to learn here. I am greatful to you all for your comments and thank you Leroy

Originally Posted by stuntflyr

Hi Leroy,
One thing I cannot see on your good looking project, is how the canopy is situated to the rear. It looks elevated at the rear when open. The P-51 canopy has a center rail at the rear and the canopy rear does not stick up in the air, but follows the fuselage lines as it trails this rear centerline rail.
The stock Mustang's cockpit opening was longer at the rear than your model's, and the interference of the cross rail brace will not be an issue. I only mention these in a constructive vein and applaud your building and posting.

I love your clean construction and wish you luck with your build.

Chris...

Chris I did a little rework and the canopy looks great now when open. I'm glad you said something and I fixed itLeroy

Nice work, Leroy! You're building continues to be clean and nice, my compliments.
Chris...

Chris, thanks for compliment. I'm surprised there hase'nt been more intrest in this thread. When I was looking for how to info. on a slider I could'nt hardly find any thing, figured most of it myself. "Oh well". Leroy

Originally Posted by Leroy Gardner

Chris, thanks for compliment. I'm surprised there hase'nt been more intrest in this thread. When I was looking for how to info. on a slider I could'nt hardly find any thing, figured most of it myself. "Oh well". Leroy

Leroy with this kind of detail you should post on RCSB you would get a bigger following there!