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Old Apr 19, 2013, 06:21 PM
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Canada, AB
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Building an ARF question

So I'm gonna start building my Hangar 9 Twist 40. For the horizontal and vertical stabilizers it says to use 30 min epoxy. On my 41 edge 540 I just had to put them where I wanted them and run thin ca into the slot. It seems a lot easier and cleaner. Can I do the same on my Twist?
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Old Apr 19, 2013, 07:44 PM
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I would use the epoxy. Thin CA will not fill any gaps and I had one of these planes. I use epoxy. All you have to do is goop it on and use alcohal to wipe it off while it is still plyible
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Old Apr 19, 2013, 08:29 PM
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And if you add one drop of Testor's Plastic Enamel to the epoxy (to match your color), you will never see it if you miss some glob or two while wiping it off.
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Old Apr 19, 2013, 08:55 PM
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Use the epoxy
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Old Apr 19, 2013, 08:58 PM
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The CA will hold. But I would go for the Epoxy because when you put it in. You still have time to work with it if you need to adjust. The Biggest one is the Horizontal stab. Epoxy is clean if you don't over do it.
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Old Apr 19, 2013, 09:04 PM
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Always epoxy when gluing your stabilizers on!
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Old Apr 19, 2013, 09:20 PM
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Another reason for epoxy is simplicity of repair if the stab needs to come off for repair. Heat gun will soften epoxy and allow removal.
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Old Apr 19, 2013, 10:10 PM
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United States, CA, Clovis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mxz1998 View Post
So I'm gonna start building my Hangar 9 Twist 40. For the horizontal and vertical stabilizers it says to use 30 min epoxy. On my 41 edge 540 I just had to put them where I wanted them and run thin ca into the slot. It seems a lot easier and cleaner. Can I do the same on my Twist?
Seeping epoxy is alot easier to clean off then runny thin CA... in any and every case. If you've not epoxied before.. it would be a good idea to practice on a few things... and see how it works.. as it is the best way to go on any stab/wing/firewall type application. Its very easy really.. and with a bit of practice is undetectable except for the nice even fillet/bead it should leave where the bonded surfaces connect. If you need a quick clean-up.. as someone said.. just use alcohol on a paper towel.. rubbing alcohol works fine for cleaning a bit of epoxy off.

I use popsicle type sticks found at WallyWorld or Michaels.. I've found that style stick is perfect for laying it down and around.. and general mixing. By practicing though, you'll find a system that works for you... you can't go wrong with practice..

You can even thin epoxy to brushing consistency with denatured-alcohol.. which is done regularly on firewalls for fuel-proofing.. it creates a great barrier and keeps any oil off the firewall.. it seals it very well.. and probably adds a touch of strength.. at least on the surface for sure.
Use 30min though, and try to clamp things where you can.. installing one component at a time.. with wings attached..so-as to align your horizontal stab correctly.

I don't know that I agree with the "easy to remove" theory though.. In my experience once somethings installed.. it would take a blaze of heat to remove... and its more of a permiation issue.. as 30min does penetrate and when applied liberally(as I think it should).. it goes way too deep to be able to "heat" and release.. thats just me though.. its all good... I don't put them on to be taken off in that fashion... and thats never been a deciding factor for my glue choices... but... to each his own.
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Last edited by DGrant; Apr 19, 2013 at 10:18 PM.
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Old Apr 19, 2013, 11:28 PM
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Originally Posted by AA5BY View Post
Another reason for epoxy is simplicity of repair if the stab needs to come off for repair. Heat gun will soften epoxy and allow removal.
THAT I didn't know! I'll check that out
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Old Apr 19, 2013, 11:46 PM
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Thanks for all the replies! Epoxy it is! Hopefully I can find some 30 minute stuff tommorow and start building!
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Old Apr 19, 2013, 11:54 PM
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don't think it can be over said! yes follow that smart Mexicans instructions,"manwell"

when in dought use epoxy, and just be overly carefull when cutting the covering back!

your gonna need some epoxy anyway, need ta thin some down and paint the firewall and fuel tank area with some thinned epoxy!
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Old Apr 20, 2013, 12:38 PM
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For cutting covering back.... don't cut it... use a soldering iron just touching it lightly where you want it cut/seperated. That will seperate it perfectly and let you just peel it.
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Old Apr 21, 2013, 12:49 AM
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Canada, AB
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Ok guys, new problem. No 30 minute epoxy within 3 hours driving distance. I have 5 minute epoxy and thin and med CA. What should I use?
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Old Apr 21, 2013, 03:00 AM
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Do you have a hardware store near you? IF not, I guess you will have to work fast and use 5 minute epoxy....just dry fit it and practice putting it in place before you actually glue it.
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Old Apr 21, 2013, 07:31 AM
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Wilson NC 27896
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Just use carpenters yellow or white glue if you cant get epoxy. If the tail comes apart after glueing it together with that, there were other problems....Gene

PS, to answer your original question, yes you can just use CA on the tail assembly. Both of my Twist .40s were put together with CA only and they have lasted several years now. I fly them very hard too.....Gene
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