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Old Aug 05, 2012, 03:38 PM
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Got her ready to maiden. I'm running a Rimfire 250 with a 8x3.8 apc slow fly prop and 300mah 2S. The auw is 7.65 oz.
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Old Aug 05, 2012, 04:14 PM
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She's ready for the maiden! Heading to the field later this afternoon.
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Old Aug 08, 2012, 05:30 PM
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Here's my flight video of the Dynamic 820. The plane is very responsive, but I think I used too much welder's glue on the ailerons, as they are very stiff and twist when they receive input. As a result, my roll rates are slower than they should be n this plane. Does anyone know if I could just slice the aileron off and reapply with a light coat of welder's glue?

Dynamic 820 by DynamicFoamy.com (3 min 50 sec)
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Old Aug 08, 2012, 06:01 PM
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NIce

Did you use 3D aileron horn?

Also; taking lg off makes it roll faster!
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Old Aug 08, 2012, 06:31 PM
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Razor, yes I used the 3D. I knew after I glued up the ailerons that they were too stiff. I need to re-glue they with a very light coat of welder's glue so they'll be "'floppy" when not connected to the control rods.
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Old Aug 08, 2012, 06:35 PM
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Okay yeah

How did you cut the control surfaces? Bevel both sides?

If not, perhaps use CA hinges Or floppy disk material inside center of hinge line

Or

Just use pieces or tape on top.


Quote:
Originally Posted by daddydog View Post
Razor, yes I used the 3D. I knew after I glued up the ailerons that they were too stiff. I need to re-glue they with a very light coat of welder's glue so they'll be "'floppy" when not connected to the control rods.
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Old Aug 09, 2012, 08:28 PM
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My review is finished

Vids to come soon hopefully.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...0#post22404738
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 12:46 PM
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Anyone else build and fly one yet?

Any plans to make a bigger or smaller model of this Bert?
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Old Nov 06, 2012, 12:29 AM
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Yay I finally got to start building my 820 today. This is my first shot at building an EPP, or any plane for that matter, my building experience up until now has been limited to surface vehicles and helis. Here's what I've learned this evening:

1. Don't instinctively try catching dripping hot glue as it falls to the floor, just let it go man, let it go.
2. When gluing main carbon wing rod don't start at one end and work all the way to the other. Hot glue dries fast! Way faster than I remembered since the last time I used it as a kid. I now have a channel full of dried hot glue. I was thinking of borrowing a friends heat gun to melt it out, but it goes about 150 degrees hotter than I need it on its lowest setting. I will likely do some testing with my thermometer gun to see if I can melt the glue before the gun gets up to temperature. I am open to other suggestions on getting glue out of there. I'm hesitant to scrape away at it with a hobby knife unless all else fails.

Oh and I have one question. For those using something like floppy disc hinges, is it a good idea to bevel both surfaces being joined by the hinge or just the control surfaces edge?

Cheers!
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Old Nov 06, 2012, 06:39 AM
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Yes I would bevel both sides but leave enough meat top side to use ca or floppy disk hinge. There should be some youtube tutorials or on rcgroups.com somewhere.

I would use a hot glue gun tip, and not low temp but normal, and when the gun is hot run the tip in the cut out reheating the glue. Once reheated place in cf rod.

Or scrap out glue if you wish once reheated


Good luck.
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Old Nov 06, 2012, 11:40 AM
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Thanks RE29! I ended up trying both the gun tip and a soldering iron, I was able to get the glue to pack in a bit. In the end I just ran a bead along the top edges of the rod and it was fine. It probably added a couple grams to the wing, but I suspect it will be fine. I'll be spending some time tonight looking for a good hinging tutorial.

All the best!
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Old Nov 06, 2012, 12:45 PM
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No worries

If ya have more questions just ask
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Old Nov 12, 2012, 11:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Razors edge 29 View Post
No worries

If ya have more questions just ask
Actually I do have a question. Did you bevel the rudder edge where it connects to the vertical stabilizer? If so, did you do both the VS and the rudder surface? Both your pics and DF's show the clean side of the rudder, so it's hard to see what's going on on the other side. I want it to look reasonably good, while at the same time allowing for as much throw as possible.

I've been using the floppy disk hinges on all my control surfaces so far with a Beacon's Foam glue and it's been great so far. I can't wait to get this thing in the air.

Thanks in advance!

eltreato
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 07:42 AM
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I always bevel both sides of control surfaces yes


More throw that way and less resistance

But

It your using floppy disk material you may want to leave a more foam in bevel to insert hinge material

If that makes any sense lol
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 05:30 PM
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Well, we've built a few EPP foamies and never do either. We never bevel both sides, only the bottom and then we only use a smashed welders bead on top. You could cut a welder's hinge that is to stiff and use less to hinge on the next attempt. Putting heavy weights on the aileron with it bent all the way to the non beveled edge could help decide if a hinge really needs to be cut or not. When determined to cut and reglue, the important thing is to let the surfaces touch, lay a bead of glue and then smash the bead flat so as to spread it. To stop aileron twist, we used flat carbon along the back of the aileron. See the video in the review thread. The twist may be noticable and really may reduce flyability. With the right power combo, that little bit of added weight from carbon strips won't matter. I wouldn't use CA hinges. Last week I got some real nice little tiny piano-hinge-style hinges from HeadsUpRC.com. They might work on something like this but EPP and Welders kind of "go together." The twist was the primary thing in need of correction on our build. Good luck and happy flying!
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