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Old Sep 10, 2012, 09:40 PM
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CrashMaster39's Avatar
United States, CA, Crestline
Joined Oct 2006
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Originally Posted by usmcsni View Post
add some down right thrust that fix my torque problems
Hmmm, yes, I guess that would do it. I don't notice any problem with torque once it is airborne though. I'm just trying to work on my rudder skills right now, so I'm not going to modify the plane yet. I'm using different taildraggers in my Clearview simulator and adding in gusty crosswind from the left, which pushes the tail over and points the plane left, requiring right rudder in differing amounts on take off & landing. I'm going to keep practicing on the sim until hopefully my left hand gets close to as good as my right. I never move my right hand the wrong way, but often move my left incorrectly, especially when moving rudder and ailerons at the same time. But good point about right down thrust. Thanks.
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Old Sep 10, 2012, 10:19 PM
JOHN 3:16
Sammy70's Avatar
Central Ohio
Joined Feb 2008
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Originally Posted by luigirox View Post
any one have any luck getting play out of the retracts I have one thats worse that the other so one sits nice and the other hangs out quite a bit-


Yes, I removed the play by replacing the whole entire retract unit--problem solved!
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Old Sep 11, 2012, 02:52 AM
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Switzerland, BE, Berne
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Originally Posted by luigirox View Post
any one have any luck getting play out of the retracts I have one thats worse that the other so one sits nice and the other hangs out quite a bit-
I fixed this problem in my T-28. I glued a small magnet into the wheel well and a piece of magnetic metal (e.g. a tiny washer or a staple) onto the inner side of the strut. The magnet is strong enought to hold the gear up, but not too strong to inhibit proper function.
I admit, this solution doesn't actually reduce the play, but it solves the aesthetical problem with the dangling gear.
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Old Sep 11, 2012, 07:01 AM
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United States, CA, Crestline
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Originally Posted by wenigtelefoniere View Post
I fixed this problem in my T-28. I glued a small magnet into the wheel well and a piece of magnetic metal (e.g. a tiny washer or a staple) onto the inner side of the strut. The magnet is strong enought to hold the gear up, but not too strong to inhibit proper function.
I admit, this solution doesn't actually reduce the play, but it solves the aesthetical problem with the dangling gear.
Ha, thats ingenious! I'm gonna do that, great idea
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Old Sep 11, 2012, 12:22 PM
Yes it was Abby Normal
Joined May 2012
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Gents, Though not specific to the Dynam Mustang...the following information should be appropriate for all of our aircraft landing gear motors!!

I have another Art-Tech plane where the landing gear needed tweaking for grass landing strip operations. This required physically bending the landing gear forward and out toward the wing tip. I found that after making the required bends (while the landing gear was deployed in the wings and using two sets of pliers - one set of pliers on the landig gear low at the gear housing to prevent any stress from being forced on the fragil retract motor gear and the other set of pliers used to make the bend high where the wheel slides on) prevented the plastic asthetic landing gear skirts from seating exactly to its former perfect stock seating arond the landing gear struts. Whereas after the landing gear was retracted into the wing...would no longer deploy the landing gear down. I had to remove and open up the retract in order to see if I could make the fix....what I discovered is....you can take the landing gear retract apart and tweak the worm geared lever to take up slack. Additionally I saw how the gear works...we do in fact have metal gears, cogs and splines. The raceway for these very small gears are of course plastic and have lots of wiggle room. Since the gears are very small I realized that if anything interupts the movement in the middle of the deploy or retract motion....would bind up the gears. Simply re-seating the gears mitigated the binding scenario....I aslo had to remove the plastic skirting that surrounds the landing gears strut and dremmel out some of the channel area where the landing gear struts seat so they would re-asemble and not touch the landing gear motor upon retracting into the wing. Once this was done...both of my landing gear now work perfectly...and both operate at the same time and neither of them have any slop. I was able to take some slop out of one side..

So while this effort was very tedious...it is quite straight forward. I was able to complete all of this without taking the wing off....or totally removing the landing gear motor from the plane....I simply unscrewed the landing gear from its wing seating and pulled it out of its seat, while still wired but unpowered of course, removed all of the screws out and separated one of the two plastic motor casing assembly halves, removed the landing gear rotator arm from its center bearing seat, then removed the worm gear level in order to make a rotation to the worm gear lever a couple of turns and place it back into its raceway. Place the gear rotator arm back into its normal position and over the worm geared lever (tricky but easily done), re-close the separated motor casing half and bolt it back together, re-seat the landing gear motor and screw it back into its wing seating. Deploy the gear open and re-attach the plastic skirts that have been dremmeled out to accomodate the bent landing gear.

My gear work perfectly now...no slop and ...they work simultaneously. I wished to have video'd all of this...but did not have the forthought to get set up in advance. In my case I figured I had nothing to lose since the landing gear would not deploy after I had made some bends...however I did note...the landing gear worked until I screwed on the plasic parts that surround the landing gear struts. I also noted the plastic was striking the landing gear motor housing...whereas before there was no contact....this made me think I had bound up the landing gear motor....which wound up to be the correct diagnosis and subsequent repair.

If any of you have landing gear that is failed...I urge you to take them apart and note how they are designed and how they work...nice to know they are metal gears and not plastic!! You might be able to repair them with no parts....just reseat everything and try them out!!

Best Regards,
TwistedGrin
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Old Sep 14, 2012, 07:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wenigtelefoniere View Post
I fixed this problem in my T-28. I glued a small magnet into the wheel well and a piece of magnetic metal (e.g. a tiny washer or a staple) onto the inner side of the strut. The magnet is strong enought to hold the gear up, but not too strong to inhibit proper function.
I admit, this solution doesn't actually reduce the play, but it solves the aesthetical problem with the dangling gear.
Going to try this. Good Idea thanks
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Old Sep 16, 2012, 12:23 AM
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United States, CA, Palos Verdes Peninsula
Joined Dec 2011
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Had some more fun with my P-51 - even tried some 3D maneuvers but there aren't enough throws in the tail to hold them very long. She does a nice knife edge, though.

Dynam P-51D Flight (6 min 10 sec)
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Old Sep 19, 2012, 05:14 PM
Warbirds and More Warbirds
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United States, GA, Dahlonega
Joined Aug 2012
49 Posts
RE: Torgueing on takeoff

I know this may sound obvious but I will just throw it out their make sure your tail wheel and rudder are perfectly aligned (you may be giving rudder to get a straight roll out that turns into opposite rudder once the rear gear lifts off) I had a wing rolling issue with mine and that was the culprit! I have a Tacon bigfoot 25 spinning a MAS 12x8 on 4s and on full throttle takeoffs almost no noticeable wing roll she comes off level (have I mentioned I love this plane :P ).

Oh and as to knife edge in a P-51 it does knife edge better than any Warbird for the simple fact it has a flying fuselage (if you look at the fuse from the top you will notice it is shaped like a wing) just a little fun fact their lol.
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Old Sep 24, 2012, 05:17 PM
OCD RC Freak
United States, CA, Riverside
Joined Aug 2011
213 Posts
Ok guys, I need some help! I've had maybe a dozen flights with this thing and man I think I'm having some issues. First off, the spinner that came with the thing was junk, bought a nice yellow 3" dubro and works great, perfectly balanced, and switched to a 12x8 APC prop. I was having issues balancing that stock spinner (or so I thought) when I hit 3/4 throttle, a really loud vibration was going on. So I checked the balance of the prop and the new spinner and everything is great, except when I hit 3/4 throttle, the loud vibration is still there!!! WHat the @$%#?? I'm not a newbie and this is not normal right?? Any ideas?? Also this thing noses over on every landing for me, this is probably me since this is my first tail dragger but I have heard about people bending the mains forward a ways, would you guys recommend me doing this to help with my nose overs?? How far? Doi need to cut foam so the retracts clear?? Thanks in advance!

---Chuck
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Old Sep 25, 2012, 10:22 PM
Yes it was Abby Normal
Joined May 2012
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Chuck, Regarding the vibration...we all know balance is key and sounds like you have that in check....I would check the mounting screws of the motor...take the motor off though and see if you can look at the "c" clip on the back of the motor shaft....question: Do you see the prop and spinner moving forward at all as you apply throttle on a static bench? Next: Does this vibration go away as you throttle past 3/4 or does it get worse??

I have been practicing landings on all of my warbirds and have found I fair much better landing with a little bit of throttle as I float down....as the wheels touch the grass...then go full off throttle and immediately go full elevator up until she stops rolling.....taxi is always done full elevator up.....I even toggle to full rates elevator 100% full up for take off. I have also found COG is criticle regarding nose overs including take offs (operating on grass at least)....I typically like to fly a little nose heavy but have found if I try to exceed the shortest COG suggested...nose overs are nearly always prevelant. Moving the battery back to acheive at least 70mm from wing root is advisable.

Regarding the landing gear...I have deployed three popsicle sticks under the rearward landing gear screws...no bending of the landing gear is required...but OK if you want more.....yes I removed some material from the wheel wells but in reality it only needs a small shave of the forward fuselage curve of the round for the wheels to clear as they swing in and out.

I am flying on 4S 3000mAh LiPo and thrash this plane around like a puppy with a rag doll....flying with 3S 3000mAh LiPo and I thought there was something wrong with the plane...nothing wrong I was just used to the juice.

Best Regards,
TwistedGrin
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Old Sep 26, 2012, 09:18 AM
Yes it was Abby Normal
Joined May 2012
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Chuck, I uploaded some photos of the landing gear modifications to the Dynam P-51...this simple modification can be made to any of our foamy R/C aircraft with this type of retract.

Included a fine story regarding a P-51 <author uknown.......

Best Regards,
TwistedGrin
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Old Sep 26, 2012, 09:36 PM
OCD RC Freak
United States, CA, Riverside
Joined Aug 2011
213 Posts
Hey thanks TwistedGrin!! I'm going to try the popsicle stick thing and see if that helps. As far as the vibration goes, I will work on it this weekend and let you know how it goes. A friend mentioned that sometimes with these inexpensive made in China foamie kits, that it can be the motor out of balance. Glue on a magnet or something, I'll check that out too. I had to flip the motor shaft on my last scratchbuilt plane so I'm somewhat familiar with taking the motor apart. Thanks again for the info, I'll keep you informed.

-Chuck

PS-Loved the P-51 story!!
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Old Oct 03, 2012, 03:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Jboy90277 View Post
Had some more fun with my P-51 - even tried some 3D maneuvers but there aren't enough throws in the tail to hold them very long. She does a nice knife edge, though.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sdyw897PZPc
Nice job! are u running a 4s 2600mah pack?Also smooth landing did you mod your gear by raking it forward a tad...thx
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Old Oct 03, 2012, 03:22 AM
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Has anyone here bought arttech 1300mm mustang?...i see it looks pretty cool has flaps and nav lights... its at bananahobby for around $140...It also has sound system but read some caught fire which isn't very good...
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Old Oct 03, 2012, 10:42 AM
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United States, CA, Palos Verdes Peninsula
Joined Dec 2011
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Originally Posted by hate2crash View Post
Nice job! are u running a 4s 2600mah pack?Also smooth landing did you mod your gear by raking it forward a tad...thx
Thanks. I'm running a 4S 2200 mah pack, and I did the rake the gear forward to keep from nosing over.
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