Hi Shoc,

First rule when testing a new (bigger) prop: make a short run, two minutes tops and bring the boat in to check the temperature of all components.

Unfortunately you found out the hard way how a brushless motor performs when the magnets have been overheated; it runs, but has no torque to speak of...

Regarding me mentioning running a 2200Kv outrunner on 3S in a 25" hull; that boat was virtually undrivable, even though it has a wider beam than the Snap. Even in the bigger ARPRO, this motor is giving the hull a hard time keeping the right side up...
Don't try it, you'll have serious torque issues.

There have been several possible replacements mentioned in this thread; keep the same motor Ø but go up in Kv, not overboard, beyond a certain amount of rpm, the stock propsize, either metal of plastic will only work as a blender.

The Leopard 2845 2960kv mentioned above is a nice drop-in replacement, giving you close to 30.000 rpm under load.

Be careful with those 'big' props on these small motors, the rotor inside is barely Ø 18-20 mm.

A longer can equals more torque, this (four-pole) motor can turn your CNC 440 prop much easier than the stock motor:
http://www.hobbyhot.com/LEOPARD-Boat...ess-Motor.html
The difference in torque and the drop in running temperature is something you'd have to experience for yourself, you'll never want to run a cheap two-pole motor again...

Regards, Jan.

Thanks Jan, yeah found out the hard way, glad I experienced this on a cheap motor now rather than later. I went ahead and ordered the following:

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...o-2860&cat=148 2730kv

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...ker-seaking-90

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...-2860XL-jacket

This should satisfy me for a while and I can pop these bad boys in another hull should I feel the need to later on. Thanks for your help, I will be careful on the prop, but if I read your last post right, Jan, you say this combo should handle a CNC 440 or an Octura 440 (but closer to a 38 after sharpening and balancing)? I think you are going to be correct, never going to run a cheap motor again but hey... it came with the boat, course then I look around online and see this and it makes me wince just a little.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/rc-boat-elec...#ht_500wt_1414

If I thought I could win this I would just buy this. Looks like he has made some improvements to it and I would get an extra motor out of the deal, but no way to win this me thinks. I will let you guys know how it all goes when the new motor gets here. I hope it will fit the motor mount I already have. Cheers guys!

Hi Shoc,

The 5050kv motor on 3S would be 50.000 rpm under load, that's quite ludicrous and I can't imagine that set-up working well...

Regards, Jan.

I ended up going with this motor (and leopard cooling jacket) - its the 2960kv version. http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...o-2845&cat=148

Should have it in a couple days so Ill let you guys know how she runs as soon as I get it installed......but have to wait on my HK T120 esc though...

Originally Posted by JGuilty13

I ended up going with this motor (and leopard cooling jacket) - its the 2960kv version. http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...o-2845&cat=148

Should have it in a couple days so Ill let you guys know how she runs as soon as I get it installed......but have to wait on my HK T120 esc though...

JG, you will need to get a new coupler from motor shaft to flex cable. The one that came stock with the boat doesn't fit on the new motor shaft. The leopards are 4mm our stock was 3mm. Got my new motor and found out right away.... another delay. Here is what I just bought, it should work.

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...oct-ocfhe4mm13

Shoc, thank you for the heads up! I would have been in the same boat as you (haha). I just ordered the new part.

What motor did you end up getting?

Originally Posted by JGuilty13

Shoc, thank you for the heads up! I would have been in the same boat as you (haha). I just ordered the new part.

What motor did you end up getting?

You bet!

I got exactly what I listed above the Lep. 2860 / 2730kv, Seaking 90esc and the XL 2860 aluminum cooling jacket. Can't wait to get it in the water again. I have also looked into upgrading to a 4mm flex (ours is 3.3mm roughly) or moving up to the heavy hitter 3/16 (which is around 5mm). I will do this AFTER I get my boat running with what I have now so I can have more time in the water whilst I order the new stuff. I am just worried the current flex / stinger might not hold up, we shall see. Still in dry dock until the collet arrives. Let me know how your new motor performs and I will do the same. Ill post a vid.

Hi Shoc & Jordan,

In order to keep the motor from snapping your flexshaft, set the ESC to soft start (supersoft if available), much easier on the shaft and you won't know the difference running the boat.

Regards, Jan.

Thank you Jan, how exactly would I change the stock 50amp esc to a soft start?

Hi Jordan

That depends on the software installed in your ESC.
Check the manual for programmable settings.

Regards, Jan.

Originally Posted by pompebled

Hi Jordan

That depends on the software installed in your ESC.
Check the manual for programmable settings.

Regards, Jan.

Hi everyone,
Well the complete overhaul is almost finished, lets just say I got a lot more proficient with my soldering skills, LOL. I also had to mod the platform of the servo to fit the big motor/shaft coupler and even still its really close, keep that in mind JG. Jan, you mentioned setting the ESC to a "softstart". The only thing it looks like I can do is adjust the timing and I have no idea what that is on one of these motors. The leopard did not come with much paperwork. So the ESC says I can adjust the timing as follows:
0°, 3.75°, 7.5°, 11.25°, 15°, 18.75°, 22.5° or 26.25°.

If there is no softstart, can I just be real easy on the throttle at the start? Thanks again in advance.

Hi Shoc,

No, timing and softstart are two different animals...

If I'm not mistaken, your motor is a Y wind and will rev higher with more (advanced) timing.
Keep in mind, higher timing setting mean higher ampdraw and more heat in all components, so start low and work your way up to find the best setting for your set-up.

With low, I don't mean 0° timing, but 7,5 or 11,25°.

Keep us updated on your progress and show us some pictures of the new set-up, please.

Regards, Jan.

Shoc, I never received a manual with my model, or at least I don't see it in my original box. How do you set the stock esc to those settings? Is it something you could scan and upload to this thread and post?

Hi Jordan,

Shoc has another ESC than stock:
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...ker-seaking-90
I'm sure the stock ESC can be programmed to a certain extent, but I would have to know what brand it is.

Regards, Jan.

Originally Posted by JGuilty13

Shoc, I never received a manual with my model, or at least I don't see it in my original box. How do you set the stock esc to those settings? Is it something you could scan and upload to this thread and post?

The stock esc did have a sheet of paper w/ programming...I do have it but I'm at work today until 7am tomorrow then I have class until 5 tomorrow, so wont be able to upload it here until then. It does have a setting adjustment for throttle I do remember that.