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Old Nov 14, 2012, 06:59 AM
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Build Log
1:96 SDM Tug - Scale Model Castings Kit Review

Hello All!
After a little planning and anticipating, I have finally started on my little SDM Tug. I am not often into the Tug boats, but the unique-ness of this kit was too good to pass up. for those of you who watched the skilled production of this kit, you know what to expect as far as the design is concerned. I am going to combine my build log and do a kit review as I go.

I ordered the kit and just under two weeks, it was across the border and on my doorstep, not bad for shipping through customs. The kit was received very well packed. The shippers would have to intentionally try and break stuff in that packaging!, so that was a good start for sure. Once I had the opportunity, I opened the package and took a couple pics so you can all see how well it was packed and what comes with the kit. The Tug kit comes entirely packaged inside the hull, the superstructure and fittings all fit neatly under the deck and away you go.

In the pics you can see the little tug in its packaging and each bag contains some parts nicely separated. the superstructure parts, bulwarks, mast and deck fittings are essentially how it is separated, making organizing your project pretty easy to get going.

More coming soon!
Cheers
G-O
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Old Nov 14, 2012, 08:23 AM
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United States, ID, Rexburg
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Is this the same SDM tug that silient-hunter is making? One of his kits? Cool!!!
Foo
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Old Nov 14, 2012, 09:02 AM
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You got it, Its one of his kits hot out of the mold... well not hot anymore, but still one of the first out there. I have more updates already, stay tuned,
Cheers
G-O
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Old Nov 16, 2012, 08:16 AM
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OK Round 2,
I am infact a little ahead of this build log/review, so it works nice in getting things straight as far as the order that maybe i ''should'' have done it.

Before spending toto much time doing all of the fairing and fitting of parts, there is a mod that needs to be done to the superstructure before fairing and priming. The winch house is recessed too far into the superstructure and had to be adjusted to better reflect the true design. as well the hatch coambing has to be adjusted to suit. This isnt that big a deal, and only requires a bit of styrene to build up.
The details of the modification along with some of scalemodelcastings building recommendations can be found here:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showa...2&d=1352828493

The depth of the winch shelter is 22mm from the aft bulkhead to the inside of the new bulkhead you have to install. this was easily marked and I used a SonicCrafter to cut the cast superstructure. I recommend not trying to do this with an exacto knife, you'll be there a very long time trying to cut through this material. If you don't have the right power tool (A Dremel Multi-max is virtually the same as my sonicrafter) then use a small coping saw or something similar. even a plain hack saw blade will do the trick. once you notch the existing bulkheads, you can either remove the material inside the new bulkhead location, or just leave it, it is not visible and only has to give enough clearance for the coambing you will be building into the deck.
The section of decking that was included in the kit intended for the bottom of the winch house can now be used as deck material at the bridge level to close up the U shape in the superstructure and the new bulkhead can be installed in position.
The deck will need the coambing built up under the winch shelter as well as some of the deck itself. the extension of the deck is should be about 10mm, (A little over 3/8'' if that helps) With that dimension in mind, build up the coambing around that new section of deck under the superstructure.
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Old Nov 16, 2012, 09:04 AM
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Next Fairing and cleaning the parts

The parts come out of the casting process fairly clean and have a minimal amount of excess casting material. a little work with an exacto knife and a small set of jewellers files, and your off to the races. The only parts that will require more elbow grease is the superstructure and bridge. The superstructure house has rounded inner corners, they dont sit flush with thedeck over the coambing. so a little work with an exacto and a file, to square out the corners and you good to go. For the bridge, or pilot house, whichever you prefer... the two halves need a little filing and trimming to meet properly around the pilothouse deck provided, I used that as my guide for how much material i needed to remove on the two halves to bring them together. Be careful to keep it joining square (as opposed to crooked..) Once you have the halves fitting nicely around the pilot housed deck, you can glue them together. let that dry then file the deckhead for the doors nice and flush with each other.
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Old Nov 19, 2012, 08:44 AM
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alterations

At this point, its in the build where you will have to decide if you want any extra fittings before you go too crazy with the painting. I decided to make myself ready for two things, one, working fire monitors. I won't make them swivel, but I will have a small pump and aim the monitors outboard. I have a nicely compact pump run off a 180size motor. the pump itself is a diaphragm type, so it gives a reasonable flow and is quite small. This is a pretty straight forward mod. the pump and pick up will be mounted in the hull, more on that later, and the monitors need to be bored out and fitted for the water flow. I recommend doing this all by hand with a drill bit. these parts are small and anything power can quickly get messy. drilling the base out was simple enough, but drilling the existing nozzle was not going as well as I had hoped. so I cut to the chase, found some styrene tube of the proper diameter, and proceeded to make new nozzles. in this manner, I could cut off the existing nozzles, bore out the space needed to mount the styrene nozzles and then it could all be glued together. I chose to not glue in the nozzles until I painted the red of the monitor casting, the nozzle will be silver, and the brass tube used to feed the monitors will be painted white to ''camouflage'' it with the superstructure. I used the brass feed pipes to help paint the red, and will then paint the white on the feed pipes. I will get a few good specific pics for this and post again.

Cheers
G-O
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Old Nov 19, 2012, 11:29 AM
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Travis here is what I did with the monitors for an idea. you can swivel them by hand, just CA in the brass tubes, and then break them loose with pliers by rotating before installing the monitor. The CA wont bond to the brass and you can break them loose so you can aim them
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Old Dec 06, 2012, 03:03 PM
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Thanks for the Tip SilentHunter
I have just returned from anpother tour at work, and actualy am hoping to get more done. The weather is not nice for painting here, I had to break thropugh 3/4" of ice in order to drain all the water collected on top of my pool cover...
I have received all of the electronics I should need, I will post a list of the stuff and their respective source. I have both 5 amp esc's, two Hoby King servos, I already have the receiver, and a small pump, now I just need to get the hull done. I had some difficulties with the paint on the hull, I am not too pleased with the result as of now. ther weather has been pretty cool and its hard to get any paint on when its like this. I will wipe it down with thinner, get as much off as i can, and re-do the hull. most other components are coming along nicely.

Cheers All

G-O
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Old Dec 13, 2012, 03:55 PM
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Here's a few quick photo's, one of the electronics, and the other of the fresh coat of orange on hull. I managed to get this coat to lay on much nicer and am happy with it now. you'll probably notice that the over spray did a nice job of making the interior of the hull bright orange as well...

A note on Electronics:
I have received my order from RCDude (www.rcdude.com) who supplies the dyonysus servo stretcher V2, if they perform as nice as I hope, they are an excellent deal for small servo applications. just be sure to ask for the cheaper shipping option. Me being in canada, I didn't specify the snail mail and almost had to pay the same for shipping as the product I was purchasing, but the vendor was very understanding and with a quick e-mail to him, he was happy to adjust my shipping arrangements. An alternative would be the servo stretcher offered by Servo City, however it is more than double the price and Much Larger, meant for bigger servo's with more adjustments.
The ESC's are from Hobby King, as well as the HXT900 servo's, found here: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...hless_ESC.html
and the servo stretcher here:
http://www.rcdude.com/servlet/the-13...cher-V2/Detail
The battery is up to you, the ESC's and motor will only require 1 cell LiPo. So you have lots of options out there.
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Old Dec 13, 2012, 11:08 PM
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Nice! I take it the servo stretchers give you more degrees of rotation??

Merry Beermas mate!

Bruce
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Old Jan 02, 2013, 11:49 AM
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Yeah you got it Bruce,
They give the azimuthin pods enough rotation for a full 360 rotation with the gearing.
Happy New Years!

I received the nice rubber fendering from Umi as well as some little flood lights for other projects. Things are progressing nicely so far, I have to paint the deck colors and then I can carry on with actually assembling stuff, Wiring will can start to get underway when i get the chance to go out into my (cold) shop and get it organized from al the winter storage that happened out there.

Hope everyone had a great holidays!

Cheers
G-O


Quote:
Originally Posted by HeavyCruser9 View Post
Nice! I take it the servo stretchers give you more degrees of rotation??

Merry Beermas mate!

Bruce
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Old Jan 11, 2013, 11:00 AM
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Progress Update

Painting has been most of the focus, I had to take a two runs at painting the hull because i had some bad runs and bubbles the first time. Luckily the hull is smooth and can be wiped off with some thinner and re-painted. coat number two went on well, and now I have to get the lower portion of the hull ready for the silver anti-fouling.

For the decks, I have sprayed the green deck color for the main deck, bridge deck and hand painted monkey's island with the green. My deck color didn't turn out as nicely textured as Silent Hunter's did, however the details in the deck and a little bit of dimpling made for a decent amount of texture to the deck, especially at this scale. The safety orange, which is suspiciously close to the hull orange was also done around the bridge by hand. Which was a pretty simple affair.

I have received both the electronics and now the rubber fendering from Umi's shop. She supplied the necessary length's of rubber fendering and I have begun preparing to install the bulllwarks. There is some flex in the bulwarks so they are not precisely fit to the deck shape. I am considering methods for making the installation true to the deck edge, and when I actually install them, I will give details on how I accomplish it. at present, I have painted the orange on the bulwarks, and have glued the halves of the bow and stern sections together. once dry, I will hand paint the white on the inside of the bulwarks followed by the black for the fairleads. When the bulwarks are installed, the deck edge to the bulwarks has to be painted orange to match the hull, this is easy to do once the bulwarks are on.

Cheers All!
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 09:26 PM
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Hello Again!
Some more advancements to let you know of, I have been on ship for a few weeks and have a bit of painting that I accomplished, it really looks very nice now! I have more work to do on the bullwarks because I am a terrible painter, but three out of five parts I painted came out great, the other two need some re-working...
Also, I have glued some details to the superstructure, just the big ones for now, In order to make sure they held really well, I drilled a 1/16 hole in the base of the components and in the deck where i want the part to sit, then glued it in place, on such a small model there isnt a whole lot of meat for the gluet to grab, so the rods really help with strength. I recommend this method to keep the parts firm and a little less fragile when being handled.

I picked up some batteries, a pair of 500mah LiPo's that will each run an Esc and through them the Receiver. for those of you watching for the details, I am going to put in a small pump. this will be powered by its own 7.4V battery to keep things separate and running smooth.

The skegs are easy to install, I had to trim the bases of them a very tiny bit to get a nice smooth mating surface, but ultimately i could have just filled it with glue. The skegs and keel have a hole fo a 1/16 brass rod or similar to keep both parts properly aligned. it was very easy to get them in place nicely.

I painted the anti-fouling color, it is silver, in case you were wondering... I really like the bright colors of this tug, its going to turn heads next club meeting I make it out to! The kit comes with the waterline moulded in faintly, so just run some tape over your orange and make sure its tight, (dont want runs of course) and giver the paint!

Hope you enjoy the build log, The kit really is a great one to put together. My only recommendation is to try and get your hands on a set of General arrangements for one of these tugs, it will give you a much clearer goal in mind when placing parts and make it easier to progress (in retrospect, would have helped a bunch)

Cheers
Enjoy

G-O
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 10:41 PM
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Warm or hot water might soften the bulwarks and allow you to form them easier.
Of course, at this stage, it might mess up the paint also.

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Old Feb 06, 2013, 09:03 PM
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Thanks Umi,
The bullwarks are flexible enough to get in place, I am just being picky about how I get them in place.

Problem exists between chair and work-bench...
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