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This only occurs on idle up, not when you increase throttle in normal mode? Do you have to be providing other input, like ailerons or elevators as well, or does it occur with no input? I starting to think rate settings might be too high on idle up.
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Joined Nov 2012
30 Posts
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it occurs with no input on elevator, aileron or rudder. it is just messed up on throttle up past midstick it's okay below midstick ![]() and oh the esc easily goes hot, is this normal? |
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Philippines
Joined Jul 2012
1,613 Posts
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My observation in my own helis (micros and 450), the more vibration in the frame, the more erratic the tail.There's a video of a guy on youtube launching his heli from his kitchen counter. The counter is barely wide enough to fit his landing skids, and he was able to spin up to hovering speed and lift off from it. As you probably know, any kind of vibration on a smooth surface will cause the heli to slide across it, his was rock stead the whole way and even his resonance was barely noticeable. My goal on my heli is to get it to spin up like that!
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The ESC should not get hot for at least 5 minutes. That may be the problem. It could also be the receiver is subject to too much vibration as you increase throttle. .
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after placing significant load on it (more than 50% head speed, with some pitch in the blades) for at least a minute. My car ESC's (I've owned about 50) behave in this fashion as well, although most of those were brushed ESC's. Keep in mind, it could be a problem somewhere else that is causing it to heat up (such as a damaged servo or wiring) . I just wanted to point out how abnormal it is for an ESC to get hot on the bench. |
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Try removing the blades and raising throttle to max. Weak servos shouldn't have a problem raising cyclic with no blades. |
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(btw, I am EE too )
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Pull out a digital voltmeter if you have one, and start checking feeds
to the individual servos. When they have no load (no blades to put tension on them) they should all be at the same supply voltage. If one is lower than the others, even by just a little, it is drawing too much current, and is probably defective. Of course, all your servos need to be the same for this to have any meaning, and you should temporarily remove the servo horns. You don't need a $300 meter for this, a $30 Radio Shack special will do just fine. Keep in mind, we are looking for voltage drop... the difference will be very small, possibly as little as 0.1 volts. But more than likely it will be around 0.3 volts or more. Check the feed as close to the servo as you can. Sharpen your meter probes to a needle point, and just poke right through the insulation of the servo lead. Be careful not to short them (on my servos, the positive and ground wires are right next to each other). A better way to check would be to use an old servo extension cable, cut it, and put an amp meter in series. This way you could monitor current draw directly, even under load. If I remember correctly, most servo spec sheets include maximum current draw figures. I gotta get some work done, be back on later. Good luck! **EDIT To be honest, I think minbari has already figured it out. If the problem only shows up under load, it makes perfect sense. Many servos freak out when they can't go to the position you instruct, and that will happen if they do not have enough torque for the application. But it does not explain the ESC getting hot on the bench with no load. If the ESC gets hot with the servo horns removed, I would suspect a faulty servo or ESC. |
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I charged up my dads flash on his camera, then touched wires together on the big cap. Made a huge, blinding spark and welded the wires on there. Pretty much loved electronics after that, lol |
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