On the note of fail safe, I've now set my failsafe, tested, and at signal break from rx throttle is killed. Does this mean if I lose signal the quad will drop? If so, honestly that can't be good either right?

edit* Changed from kill motors to only a bit of throttle. The idea being blades will hopefully slow the descent down enough to glide to safety. Well... that's the idea anyway.

Originally Posted by rexless

I'm twitching to go try it again and find out what I can do with that power. I love flying fast with the V929's - I push them to the maximum limits and they don't handle it well. I think I should rig up some protection from the snow first... I am bound to crash and would hate to fry anything. The motors shouldn't have any major issue with some wet I guess.

I'll certainly post anything I learn about the fail safe setup! Thanks to everyone for posting on here. I can't believe how much we can learn so quicky.

There was a good discussion on various pros and cons of failsafe settings in the FrySKY topic. Maybe start around here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...76328&page=605

FWIW.

cheers, Andrew

Thanks for that link. I've read through the page and a bit of postings I found about the fail safe and yeah, that's a big ? really.

I've never flown outside of visual line of sight (vlos) except for passing behind a pole or something for a brief moment. I seriously doubt I'm going to lose signal from my Devo 10 transmitter on any flight that stays in visual range. That said, what if I accidentally power it off somehow, or a wire shakes loose or heaven forbid I'm hit by an asteroid?

So I guess even a minute chance of needing Fail Safe is enough to consider it. I'm leaning towards some sort of setting that turns on self levelling and a throttle position that will result in a quick but hopefully safe descent. It would be swell if the system would beep like crazy as it descends to give some warning to anyone around.

At the end of the day I think that's the best bet. If I manage to regain signal hopefully I'll be able to recover and return to base otherwise once the heli crashes chances are it'll just hit something on the ground, bust, and then lie there spinning until I find it.

So from what I can read on the Devo 10 I would turn off Servo Hold and set everything to 0 except gear and throttle. I think about 30% on throttle should be enough to bring it down slowly.

Originally Posted by rexless

So from what I can read on the Devo 10 I would turn off Servo Hold and set everything to 0 except gear and throttle. I think about 30% on throttle should be enough to bring it down slowly.

Yup, that's what I did, and it works. Although not to sure if the throttle will be enough to glide it safely down.

Originally Posted by T3PRanch

Fail Safe lets you predetermine control settings that take effect if the receiver "looses" the signal from the transmitter for a prescribed time period. IF the settings are correct they greatly reduce the possibility of your model from flying away (or instantly crashing) never to be seen again as has happened to many persons in the past. I read recently of an expensive DJI quad that just "flew away" and was not found. OUCH!

Thurmond

You stated it perfectly. The only thing I'd like to add is to remind everyone with a failsafe equipped receiver to make sure you rebind after getting everything trimmed. Some people calibrate their esc's when they bind their models (I mostly fly planes but this applies to all models). This would set your fail safe to full throttle and whatever trim settings were active @bind. This is not only asking to crash your model if you lose signal. It's also the reason for a model to go full throttle if you accidentally shut off your tx early. We can all imagine the damage/injuries that can occur from that.... Rebind your rx's after everything is trimmed out with zero throttle. If you have a failsafe make sure it's setup correctly.

My 2 cents,

John

Originally Posted by Banjo5

PS. Bob, how much for a CNC quad kit minus the ESC's and KK2 (happen to have both in "stock" already).

That's basically a frame with motors, a distribution board, 4 motors and a battery lead. I don't like to sell motors because I pay shipping on them so I have to mark them up and you can basically buy them for cheaper elsewhere. In other words, my quote to you would look greedy and I'm not comfortable with this.

How about you just get a frame and I'll give you a deal on the distro board and battery lead?

Sorry for the late reply, by the way. I missed that part of your post earlier.

Best,
Chris

One of the takeaways from the failsafe comments was the dilemma that any settings with the motors running means that they'll stay running once they hit something. The electric motors on most of our multi's are really very powerful and able to do significant damage. And they don't stop like a gas engine would.

The more and more I see these videos (especially FPV) ones I worry that a couple of bad situations are going to get things banned or cost someone a lot of money (given our litigious society).

The challenge as I see it is that there are two failsafe scenarios, one where you want to just keep things alive until you regain control, the other where you're wanting to do an "uncontrolled forced landing" in the least disastrous manner possible.

cheers,
Andrew

Failsafe! HA

You havent lived until you have done a blade stop on a quad!!!! WHAT A RUSH!

So Mr. Chris...

How much for the latest and greatest 450 frame shipped to 78414? Maybe a KK2 as back up!

Been bashing mine pretty hard and had a frame crack at the motor. She is still flying but the frame cracking was SO my fault. Playing with stick scaling at 3 ft is fun. LOL

Its almost close to say how many licks can you get from a tootsie roll tootsie pop?

in my case...how many rolls/flip can you get in and pull out in time...LMAO

Originally Posted by DbleX

Failsafe! HA

You havent lived until you have done a blade stop on a quad!!!! WHAT A RUSH!

So Mr. Chris...

How much for the latest and greatest 450 frame shipped to 78414? Maybe a KK2 as back up!

Been bashing mine pretty hard and had a frame crack at the motor. She is still flying but the frame cracking was SO my fault. Playing with stick scaling at 3 ft is fun. LOL

Its almost close to say how many licks can you get from a tootsie roll tootsie pop?

in my case...how many rolls/flip can you get in and pull out in time...LMAO

Hi,

It depends if you want the black frame or metallic frame. Metallic is cheaper because I don't have to coat it.

Have a look at page 1 for the price list. (No shipping charges on 450 frames only, by the way.)

Best,
Chris

Originally Posted by bobepine

MY choice of motors isn't based on the ESCs I use. It's based on how much thrust I want. I'm growing attached to the 2826/2200KV at the moment. 950 grams of thrust.... These are the motors I put on the M400 models and I'm thinking about starting to put them on the CNC 355 builds. They are about 20 grams heavier that the 2822s but man, they have plenty of pull to make up for the extra weight. PLENTY.

I've been experiencing with different motors and whatnot recently. While some people seem to think I'm like a quad Guru, this is actually far from the truth. I'm still a noob and I have a lot to learn yet in order to build quads with high efficiency when it comes to props, and motors combinations vs the weight of the model.

Anyways.... Below is a picture of the fastest quad I have ever built. By fastest, I mean WAY faster than anything I have built so far. It's a joke, really. This quad is INSANE. I designed it so that I could use the smallest air frame while being able to use 7 inch props. The results is 254mm. The 7 inch props are 1.5mm apart when spinning. Almost touching. Now get a hold of this.... I'm using 2826/2200KV motors on that little guy. That's 200 grams of motors on a 250mm frame. Each motor has 950 grams of thrust... Yep, that's right.... 3800 grams of thrust on a 254mm frame.... The result is, well, INSANE! I have NEVER flown a quad this fast. NEVER. It's stable, it's agile and it's a bloody ROCKET!

It escapes me why people bother with tiny 1510 motors and the like on 250 size quads when you can have this instead:



And that, my friends, it the Armattan CNC 254. Possibly the fastest quad on the face of the Earth. I'll have a video or two up soon.

Best,
Chris

Hi Chris,

Interesting Armattan CNC 254 frame. How much for the complete frame?

I'd like to order a CNC 255, RXR , all metal .

how long with this kit fly for? RXR DIY Kit- 205$
what battery do you recomend for longest flight time?
what would be the max flight time with a gopro, fpv setup, fpv battery and a gimbal (total 315g)?
would the 335 or 400 be better suited to my needs?

Hi Chris,

I just noticed that the holes in the top plate of your new CNC 254 are triangular. I like this a lot since it will now allow an XT60 connector to pas through the hole to prevent routing the battery lead over the side of the center plates and allows extra space for esc wiring routing for a cleaner look. I hope this is planned for future builds and kits.

Thurmond

Is the CNC chassis sharp enough to cut the wires around the edges? I've noticed with CNC parts they tend to be very sharp.

Originally Posted by Borister

how long with this kit fly for? RXR DIY Kit- 205$
what battery do you recomend for longest flight time?
what would be the max flight time with a gopro, fpv setup, fpv battery and a gimbal (total 315g)?
would the 335 or 400 be better suited to my needs?

Read through this..

Originally Posted by bobepine

Armattan Quads FAQ

1- Can I buy props from you? No. I only include one set. I buy my props from here: http://www.himodel.com/sort.php?sub1=E2 And there is a poster selling them at a good price in the classifieds. His prices are good and I heard he's a nice guy.

2- What size are the props? Most of the quads I make use 8045 props. Quads 325mm or less use 7045 props. Quads 400-450mm use 9045 props

3- Can I buy motors/Simonk ESCs from you? No. I do not sell components. I sell frames and RXR models. Even if you buy a RXR model from me and you want a spare motor or ESC, I will not sell. You can order that yourself through the various vendors who will be happy to take your orders. I can sell you spare frame parts, though.

4- Where can I buy these motors/ESCs? I buy RCX motors and ESCs from www.myrcmart.com and I also buy Turnigy motors from Hobby King. RCTimer motors with the same specs can me mismatched as are the Turnigy motors. You could have one of each brand of motors on the same quad and it will fly the same. I would not mismatch ESCs, though. You need 4 of the same. I much prefer buying from MyRcMart in general and I only order elsewhere when they don't have what I need. That's why 90% of my quads have RCX motors. Their service is the best, they ship faster, and they have been very honest and straight up with me without fail for a long time now. I have received Turnigy motors with bad bearings out of the box from Hobby King, but never had any problems with the RCX from myrcmart. They are great bang for your bucks.

5- What's your turn around time? It usually varies between 1 and 3 weeks depending on the model you order, parts I have in stock and how many orders I have. I can give you a more specific time estimate when you order.

6- How long does shipping take? Between 7 and 14 days. Most orders take 10 days.

7- Do you ship to Europe? Yes. I ship worldwide. Shipping cost is included in the price. There is a 15$ shipping charge ONLY for quads larger than 400mm. If 400mm quads are sold as DIY kits, there is no additional shipping cost.

8- What batteries do I need? You need 3s batteries, around 2200mAh with NO LESS than 40c discharge rate. The battery connectors I use on Armattan quads are T-Deans connectors.

9- Can this quad lift a GoPro? Yes. Easily. Most people mount the GoPro on top of the top plate.

10- Why do you use motors with such high KV? It's for better performance and more thrust. A 2822 motors with 1100KV will produce about 500 grams of thrust. The same motor with 2600KV produces 850 grams of thrust. My quads are built for acrobatics. I believe that in the past, high KV motors were avoided because they would often make a quad unstable and cause oscillation. I'm using SimonK ESCs and the KK2 board on my builds and this combination can handle high KV rock solid even on hard acrobatic recoveries.

11- What are the leads I need to connect my receiver to the kk2? It depends on what kind of receiver you are using, but generlly, you need 3 wire jumper cables with female connectors on both ends. I use 1x 3 wire connectors and 4x single pin jumper cables on mine. Here's a link to where they sell the 3 pins jumper cables and single pins jumper cables as well. http://blueskyrc.com/index.php?main_...6a74386668d281

12- Will the KK2 board be flashed with the latest firmware? As of now, I flash V1.4 on the KK2. V1.5 has been released but it is for camera stabilization gimbals management and not needed on sports quad. So yes, I flash the latest firmware that is applicable to my models.

13- Does auto level on the KK2 help beginners? Yes and no. If you manage to tune it right it may help a bit but it doesn't work all that well and it makes the controls sluggish. So you may need to raise stick scaling a bit to get the same response on the sticks. I flash firmware V1.4 on the KK2s and this firmware improves the auto level function quite a bit but it's still not a "real" auto level like you will find on Multiwii, Open Pilot or Naza flight controllers. I do not program auto level on my models because I think it siply doesn't work well enough to bother. The KK2 is a great acrobatic platform, but for auto level it's greatly deficient, in my opinion.

14- Can I program the KK2 to make flying easier for a beginner? Yes, you can. Essentially, you need to reduce the stick scaling numbers on Pitch and Roll until the flight characteristics are tamer. Other settings in the KK2 board have no bearings on how easy the model is to fly.