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Old Sep 28, 2013, 07:42 PM
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Build Log
SC&H Brig (USS Reprisal)

This is the start to my build of my SC&H brig. Ive been wanting one for years and finnaly got one! Currently waiting on my order to be recived.
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Old Sep 28, 2013, 07:51 PM
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Outstanding!

Your Valhalla looks amazing....I can only imagine how good Reprisal will look. Great name by the way.

Exciting.
kind regards
Tim
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Old Sep 28, 2013, 08:29 PM
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Congratz again. Looks like we're going to have a busy ship building fall this year.
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Old Sep 29, 2013, 08:19 AM
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ditchdoc,
Wow. Valhalla is beautiful and rigging detail is exquisite. Really looking forward to following your SC&H build.
Valhalla in just a year - a real accomplishment! How big is she?
Best,
Dan
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Old Sep 29, 2013, 09:37 AM
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Thanks everyone. She's 54" LOA, 38" on deck, 13" beam, and 50" tall. The hull was modeled after the fishing schooner Lettie G Howard. The rig was loosely based off of robbe's validvia. She sails reasonably well looks good on the water. Tacking is a bit of an issue( I have to use the motor to bring her through the wind) but off the wind is great
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Old Oct 12, 2013, 09:36 AM
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She's here!!

First off can I saw is wow. This is just an amazing kit. After going through the multiple bags, rolls and boxes. I started cleaning up the hull seams. The stem and keel were good ( with a little resin on the keel tubes). The stern needed a little work to clean up. I mounted the mast steps and the servo blocks. The bulworks are tricky to get in along with the deck.

Dont know what the "vets" have done but some sanding they seem to fit better. Their is thicker glasswork under the top rail and had to bevel the top of the bulworks. Any tips on getting them to fit?

I did start scoaring the bulworks as well. Not to hard just takes time. The rudder tube cut and glued in. So far this looks like its going to be a great build
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Old Oct 12, 2013, 04:16 PM
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Hi ditchdoc,

At this pace, you'll be done before me! : )

Definitely add a chamfer to the top corner of the bulwarks to accommodate the inside radius on the hull, top edges. once you get them to fit, with the proper curve to the hull, you shouldn't have any trouble adjusting as needed. I also chamfered the front and rear, corners for the same reason as above. Once all that is done and temporarily clamped in position, you can mark the gun ports on the incise of the fiberglass hull.

Glad you have your model and look forward to seeing the progress.

kind regards
Tim
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Old Oct 13, 2013, 12:13 AM
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Regarding your schooner's failure to tack - I suspect your Center of Effort (sails, CE) is fore (in front) of the Center of Lateral Resistance (hull&finkeel, CLR). This will fight any swing of the bow to windward eg a tack. Her ability to sail off the wind is also indicative of this unbalancing of CE and CLR. When the two line up, going to windward and going to leeward are equally easy.

You can move the CE aft by reducing the number of jibs flying. Or, If you have your mainsail sheet on a different servo from your foresail sheet, then slacking the foresheet will also move the CE aft temporarily. I use differential sheeting all the time; it's one of the key factors in maneuvering any multi-masted vessel, fore&aft rigged or square-rigged. Slack sheets fore of the CLR (jibs and foresails) before tacking (heading up), slack sheets aft of the CLR (mainsheet) before wearing (bearing away). This makes the the sails into "air rudders" so that they assist your maneuver, rather than fight it.

Or, you could move the CLR forward by adding area to your finkeel on the leading edge.

A vessel as large as your schooner should have enough inertia to make it though the eye of the wind when tacking. If she does not, then something is fighting the swing. The "air rudders" effect of the sails will overpower the water rudder every time :-). Increasing the area of the water rudder will help...but differential sheeting of the sails is a more effective, elegant way to solve the problem.

Looking at your photos, your fore staysail (innermost jib) may be sheeted too tight. Jibs have a strong effect on steering/maneuverability. Even small jibs, acting on the long lever arm of the bowsprit&jibboom, can dominate the course of the vessel.

You've made a very beautiful schooner, Well Done.

Hope this helps.
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Old Oct 15, 2013, 01:29 PM
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Deck in place

After some sanding the bulworks are fit nicely and the deck in installed. Stained the deck. I went darker than all of the other ships I've seen here, looks good to me. Gun ports are cut (after a dusting of fiberglass- I still itch :/). She's starting to look like a real ship. Have to do some filling and sanding. Pics will be coming soon.

Started work on the deck furnishings to break up the hull work.

Thanks Tim, im hoping to have the bulk hull work done by the end of the month and do a float test. Its a long list but im making good progress. Hey were your guns evenly cast. About half of mine around the muzzle end are not even. Like the resin didn't fill completely in the mold. Your new guns and bulwork blocks did you get those made up by someone or did you do those?

Thanks Brooks. The main, fore and stay sail are all on the same chain drive system. While the jib and flying jib work in tandem. I did notice it was easier to tack when I dropped the flying jib when it was windy. I can't move the keel back b/c she doesn't have one. Im just using the actual keel the ship was designed with only. Iv been through 4 different rudder designs increasing size each time. This one works well right now but she's kept peir side now while Reprisal is in drydock.

Cheers everyone,
Justin
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Old Oct 15, 2013, 04:49 PM
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"... Gun ports are cut (after a dusting of fiberglass- I still itch :/). She's starting to look like a real ship. Have to do some filling and sanding...."

Justin,
After opening up the gunports, inspect the inner walls of the ports. Look for any gaps between the hull walls and the bulwark strips. Fill any gaps with epoxy as those gaps can be an unsuspected source of leaks.

Best,
Dan
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Old Oct 17, 2013, 01:20 AM
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Hi Justin

I don't remember seeing any issues with the kit-supplied guns as far as the castings go. I can check my kit guns I have here and if you need a few to replace any you received with your ship, I'm happy to send them to you for cost of postage only.

I created the new guns and carriages for Scorpion. Mainly because I wanted the King George cypher on the 6 pounders but also to have my long guns and carronades as the RN patterns of that time.

Kind regards
Tim
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Old Oct 23, 2013, 12:57 PM
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Thanks Tim I get a chance I'll go through and see how many I need.

Well the ship yard has been busy. Deck has been mounted and sealed waterways are in place and the main mast is all put together painted and sealed. I just have to finish up with some detail work on the hull itself and it's paint time
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Old Oct 23, 2013, 05:48 PM
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Outstanding!

You made fats work of that hull. Rudder and striker looks great too!

tim
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Old Oct 23, 2013, 09:15 PM
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Holy cow Justin your gonna beat both me and Tim in the water at this rate... and we with our one year head-start. Looking grand.

What number is your brig? We're C032 and C033.

Its awesome to have three build logs going at the same time. Wish we all lived a bit closer though so we could do a fleet sail.
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Old Oct 25, 2013, 03:51 PM
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Yea been a great build so far I'm planning on getting a float test by the end of the month. Time passes so quick on this build. I finished the masts and bowsprit , scuppers are in, gun mounts assembled and painted, most of the deck furniture is done. The hull has a little work to do on the bow with the head rails (then painting). I'll probably start work on the standing rigging next week. Thanks for the support. I've got the baby of the 3 sisters. She's C034
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